Carburetor1
Thread starter
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2022
- Messages
- 121
Vacuum pulled off manifold port was 16"...ported vacuumed was set right at the needle touching zero..New starter carburetor cleaning and distributor will be done this fall
WHOA! Wrong Proceedure!The mark set at 12 doesn't move when revved up and light set at 36. It drives but has no power and popped a few times. The only way to get vacuum up is to turn advance to like 20 something
It was at zero. When revved it jumped to 38 and back to zero when idle. With vac advance unhooked and plugged.WHOA! Wrong Proceedure!
The light dialed to 12 should have the balancer hash mark lined up to "0" on the timing tab - this would mean you have timing set to 12deg,at slow idle. Can you take a photo of your timing tab on the chain cover?
Only then when you rev it up it should move. IF it does move, have someone hold rpm to 3500 and you dial the light knob back until the mark is at zero. Now the read where the dial back knob is set That will be your total timing which should be 33-36 deg with factory iron quench heads if set correctly
the vacuum advance need to be disconnected and plugged when you are doing this.
When done getting the timing correct, plug your dist vacuum line back into the manifold port on the carb (right side nipple)
If feel you really have to bring you car to a professional.
Don't go below 180 on teh new stat or the motor will sludge and wear.Put 195deg thermostat in boiling water with a temp gun and at 205 it did open a little but could push it much farther by hand when cool. Gonna try a cooler thermostat to see if it helps at all
Was put in a pot on gas stove and thermometers read 205 and rising and the thermostat that was stamped 195 hardly opened after after10minDon't go below 180 on teh new stat or the motor will sludge and wear.
I would have poured boiling water into a clear pint mug and lowered the T-stat in on a thread.
That stat is going to suck up heat and cool off a cup of water pretty fast and then if you don't have a lab thermometer then you don't know your water temp.
Was the thermostat stamped 195?
Good luck, have fun and learn a lot - all at the same time
What was at zero?It was at zero. When revved it jumped to 38 and back to zero when idle. With vac advance unhooked and plugged.
That means it was junk, broken, toast, and generally no good.Was put in a pot on gas stove and thermometers read 205 and rising and the thermostat that was stamped 195 hardly opened after after10min
It was at zero. When revved it jumped to 38 and back to zero when idle. With vac advance unhooked and plugged.
It's similar to that. Timing was set 14degrees at zero tooth mark with advance dial at 14..then turned up to 38 it jump to zero again when revved upWhat was at zero?
Does your car have a timing tape or a fully degreed balancer with a pointer? How are you seeing 38?
stock usually looks something like this
View attachment 116550
A 180 is typically about "perfect" in terms of balancing wear and performance.Put 195deg thermostat in boiling water with a temp gun and at 205 it did open a little but could push it much farther by hand when cool. Gonna try a cooler thermostat to see if it helps at all
Does it idle smooth or rumpity rump? If it's smooth it has a stock or very close cam and a oil with higher zddp is not neededAny suggestions on best oil for this engine
Last question today.It's pretty smooth.. no drastic sound out of the exhaust like some cammed engines sound
Pick your favorite oil bottle color and use itIt's pretty smooth.. no drastic sound out of the exhaust like some cammed engines sound
Is the hard start only when warmed up? If so, it's likely vapor lock. A small phenolic carb spacer can welp tremendously with that. Wrapping the fuel lines to shield them from engine bay heat is another good way to prevent it.