Repeat:
What kind of distributor
Second Q:
Does it have any kind of ignition box on it?
What kind of distributor
Second Q:
Does it have any kind of ignition box on it?
Engine temp on chevy small block
- Thread starter Carburetor1
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Set the dwell to 30 degrees first before setting the timing. Sometimes the mechanical/centrifical weights will hang in the full advanced position. You should be able to grab the rotor and twist it one way or the other and it spring back. Also the engine shouldn’t be idling faster than 700 RPMs in gear. Some times mechanical/centrifical advance begins to advance just off idle speeds.
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How do I set the dwell..and what is it
Dwell is the time the points are open. It’s been a very long time, but IIRC it’s usually controlled by the points gap, on that style of cap you should be able to change it with the engine running using the Little door/window in the cap.
Are you sure it has points? No perttonix igniter or similar?
I’m confused by something’s:
You have 3 kinds of advance
Base or initial - what it’s set at at idle
Centrifugal - the distributor adds this by way of weights and springs.
Vacuum- added via the vacuum diagram on the distributor
Using the dial back light you should be looking at the TDC mark, with the TDC mark lined up the timing is whatever the dial is set to.
If there is no change in timing from idle to 4000 something is wrong with the centrifugal.
If I were doing this, I would do this:
Disconnect vac hose, plug any open ports on carb.
Raise and hold the rpm at 4000 or above. Use my dial back light set in 36 and turn the distributor until the tdc lined up with timing pointer, tighten distributor.
Return to idle, use dial back light to line up the tdc and pointer- record this number from the dial.
If there is no change between 4000 and idle the centrifugal is either broken or someone has locked it out - that’s a problem.
Actually there’s other stuff I’d do but that should get you started.
Ignore the vacuum advance until it’s running right. (And maybe forever)
Are you sure it has points? No perttonix igniter or similar?
I’m confused by something’s:
You have 3 kinds of advance
Base or initial - what it’s set at at idle
Centrifugal - the distributor adds this by way of weights and springs.
Vacuum- added via the vacuum diagram on the distributor
Using the dial back light you should be looking at the TDC mark, with the TDC mark lined up the timing is whatever the dial is set to.
If there is no change in timing from idle to 4000 something is wrong with the centrifugal.
If I were doing this, I would do this:
Disconnect vac hose, plug any open ports on carb.
Raise and hold the rpm at 4000 or above. Use my dial back light set in 36 and turn the distributor until the tdc lined up with timing pointer, tighten distributor.
Return to idle, use dial back light to line up the tdc and pointer- record this number from the dial.
If there is no change between 4000 and idle the centrifugal is either broken or someone has locked it out - that’s a problem.
Actually there’s other stuff I’d do but that should get you started.
Ignore the vacuum advance until it’s running right. (And maybe forever)
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There is a small window with a screw..how do i know when it's 30deg
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Everything under the cap was dirty and greasy and the weights were sticking and not resetting when turned. They are also sloppy and have lots of play. Maybe I need new springs or maybe new distributor. After I hooked up the wires in firing order of a 350 it started up but had to retarded timing way farther than it was before. But it's at 13 and timing mark did jump to 38 when revved engine. Now it diesels when it shuts off. But better than before so progress
Wow... You're going to love how much better the car runs once you get the ignition timing fully functional.
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Yes that's the only issue at hand and the starter connectors are loose but it won't tighten up for some reason. What causes the dieseling when it's shut off?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I would suggest an HEI conversion, but looking at how close it is to the firewall, it doesn't look like it would fit unfortunately. I am a fan of modern electronic ignition in legacy applications.
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Yes it's so close to firewall and the capacitor that I couldn't turn it anymore that's why it's at 13
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
13 base should be fine. What octane gas do you have in it?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
You can eliminate the points with this puppy:
www.summitracing.com
And it keeps both the mechanical and vacuum advance.
PerTronix D104600 PerTronix Flame-Thrower Stock Look Cast Distributors | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - PerTronix Flame-Thrower Stock Look Cast Distributors with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Distributors at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com
And it keeps both the mechanical and vacuum advance.
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87 but it's almost empty. Think i will go with shell premium this tank. The carb needs a good cleaning it kinda nasty
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
That's why it is running-on. 10 degrees was also probably stock base for 87. You can run 12-14 base with 91, which is what I'd recommend. I'd also take a peek at doing a Pertronix dizzy upgrade like the one I linked, the magnetic pickup is a lot better than points. They also have some nicer billet units, but I don't think you need that as it sounds like this mill is pretty mild.
You need a dwell/tach meter and if I remember correctly it requires an alan wrench. Before I purchase one I set many a points with a match book cover but you may need to be more precise.
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So in your honest opinion..what's the highest advance that could be set and be functional or am I at the limit. The more advance I put the more vacuum I get. Right now it's like 15"
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
14-15 base is OK as long as you have 91 in the tank.
Sounds like either the balancer slipped or it has the wrong timing tab which is fairly common when mixing Chevy parts. I'd tune it by trial and error from here as the timing marks are obviously incorrect.
