Engine temp on chevy small block

[Carburetor1]

Vacuum pulled off manifold port was 16"...ported vacuumed was set right at the needle touching zero..New starter carburetor cleaning and distributor will be done this fall

 

[Carburetor1]

Put 195deg thermostat in boiling water with a temp gun and at 205 it did open a little but could push it much farther by hand when cool. Gonna try a cooler thermostat to see if it helps at all

 

[ARCOgraphite]

The mark set at 12 doesn't move when revved up and light set at 36. It drives but has no power and popped a few times. The only way to get vacuum up is to turn advance to like 20 something

WHOA! Wrong Proceedure!

The light dialed to 12 should have the balancer hash mark lined up to "0" on the timing tab - this would mean you have timing set to 12deg,at slow idle. Can you take a photo of your timing tab on the chain cover?

Only then when you rev it up it should move. IF it does move, have someone hold rpm to 3500 and you dial the light knob back until the mark is at zero. Now the read where the dial back knob is set That will be your total timing which should be 33-36 deg with factory iron quench heads if set correctly

the vacuum advance need to be disconnected and plugged when you are doing this.

When done getting the timing correct, plug your dist vacuum line back into the manifold port on the carb (right side nipple)

If feel you really have to bring you car to a professional.

 

[Carburetor1]

WHOA! Wrong Proceedure!

The light dialed to 12 should have the balancer hash mark lined up to "0" on the timing tab - this would mean you have timing set to 12deg,at slow idle. Can you take a photo of your timing tab on the chain cover?

Only then when you rev it up it should move. IF it does move, have someone hold rpm to 3500 and you dial the light knob back until the mark is at zero. Now the read where the dial back knob is set That will be your total timing which should be 33-36 deg with factory iron quench heads if set correctly

the vacuum advance need to be disconnected and plugged when you are doing this.

When done getting the timing correct, plug your dist vacuum line back into the manifold port on the carb (right side nipple)

If feel you really have to bring you car to a professional.

It was at zero. When revved it jumped to 38 and back to zero when idle. With vac advance unhooked and plugged.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Put 195deg thermostat in boiling water with a temp gun and at 205 it did open a little but could push it much farther by hand when cool. Gonna try a cooler thermostat to see if it helps at all

Don't go below 180 on teh new stat or the motor will sludge and wear.

I would have poured boiling water into a clear pint mug and lowered the T-stat in on a thread.

That stat is going to suck up heat and cool off a cup of water pretty fast and then if you don't have a lab thermometer then you don't know your water temp.

Was the thermostat stamped 195?

Good luck, have fun and learn a lot - all at the same time

 

[Carburetor1]

Don't go below 180 on teh new stat or the motor will sludge and wear.

I would have poured boiling water into a clear pint mug and lowered the T-stat in on a thread.

That stat is going to suck up heat and cool off a cup of water pretty fast and then if you don't have a lab thermometer then you don't know your water temp.

Was the thermostat stamped 195?

Good luck, have fun and learn a lot - all at the same time

Was put in a pot on gas stove and thermometers read 205 and rising and the thermostat that was stamped 195 hardly opened after after10min

 

[ARCOgraphite]

It was at zero. When revved it jumped to 38 and back to zero when idle. With vac advance unhooked and plugged.

What was at zero?

Does your car have a timing tape or a fully degreed balancer with a pointer? How are you seeing 38?

stock usually looks something like this

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Was put in a pot on gas stove and thermometers read 205 and rising and the thermostat that was stamped 195 hardly opened after after10min

That means it was junk, broken, toast, and generally no good.

Progress !

I have to get some lunch, be back in a couple hours

 

[DuckRyder]

It was at zero. When revved it jumped to 38 and back to zero when idle. With vac advance unhooked and plugged.

Wait - what?

 

[Carburetor1]

What was at zero?

Does your car have a timing tape or a fully degreed balancer with a pointer? How are you seeing 38?

stock usually looks something like this
View attachment 116550

It's similar to that. Timing was set 14degrees at zero tooth mark with advance dial at 14..then turned up to 38 it jump to zero again when revved up

 

[OVERKILL]

Put 195deg thermostat in boiling water with a temp gun and at 205 it did open a little but could push it much farther by hand when cool. Gonna try a cooler thermostat to see if it helps at all

A 180 is typically about "perfect" in terms of balancing wear and performance.

 

[Chris142]

Any suggestions on best oil for this engine

Does it idle smooth or rumpity rump? If it's smooth it has a stock or very close cam and a oil with higher zddp is not needed

 

[Carburetor1]

It's pretty smooth.. no drastic sound out of the exhaust like some cammed engines sound

 

[ARCOgraphite]

It's pretty smooth.. no drastic sound out of the exhaust like some cammed engines sound

Last question today.

What does the dial back timing read at idle with the vacuum advance connected?

Wife says it's time to eat my lunch!

 

[Chris142]

It's pretty smooth.. no drastic sound out of the exhaust like some cammed engines sound

Pick your favorite oil bottle color and use it

 

[Carburetor1]

Update.. replaced thermostat for 180deg flushed the system 4 times and car stays at 190 town driving. Drove for 30min and idled for 10min after that and stayed at 205. Takes a couple turns of the key to start but might be the choke and carb needing adjustment or drop the timing a few degrees but it runs great. If I have any other questions or update I will post.
Thanks to everyone who helped in this situation it's greatly appreciated.

 

[RDY4WAR]

Is the hard start only when warmed up? If so, it's likely vapor lock. A small phenolic carb spacer can welp tremendously with that. Wrapping the fuel lines to shield them from engine bay heat is another good way to prevent it.

 

[clinebarger]

Is the hard start only when warmed up? If so, it's likely vapor lock. A small phenolic carb spacer can welp tremendously with that. Wrapping the fuel lines to shield them from engine bay heat is another good way to prevent it.

And if this is a Edelbrock/Carter AFB.....They only need @ 4 PSI of fuel pressure, Above 7 PSI WILL cause loading issues.

With the Fuel Pump to Carburetor fuel line, I find if you don't let it touch anything between the 2....Don't usually have issues. Just look how a factory Pump to Q-Jet hard line is ran, No contact.

I also find heat isolator type gaskets to work well, Edelbrock 9265 for example.