Engine Flush

[Greasymechtech]

Address all other maintenance. Start with plugs, thermostat, cap, air filter, timing belt kit, rad cap, PCV valve, coolant, transmission fluid, ........

Synthetic oil every 3k-5k/6months is all you need. Vary the brand. If there is oil consumption, go a little thicker. Check oil level frequently and top off as needed to keep it full. There is no need for a flush when changing brands or types of oil.

Pull off a valve cover and post pictures.

I've seen lots of products work. So, there isn't only one. Know the amount of crud prior to any cleaners.

 

[kschachn]

Pull off a valve cover and post pictures.

He already noted he removed the cover and there wasn’t any sludge.

The narrative has changed a little and now it’s because of a brand change.

 

[Trav]

I replaced the valve cover gasket a year ago and it look good.

If it looked good then whats the problem? I wouldn't bother doing anything but regular quality oil changes.
Newton's third law is: For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Sure you may remove something but also may possibly induce a seal leak(s) on an 280K engine. A little common sense goes a long way!

 

[nthach]

For shock & awe, BG EPR 109 or Liqui Moly Engine Flush.

For low and slow but effective cleaning, HPLEC mixed in with the cheapest dexos1 oil or VPBR.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Starts the thread with the word sludge. Then says it looked good a year ago. How about pulling the rocker cover and posting a picture for the members here to decide. I could care less what he noted. Brand or type changes do not need flushes at all.

 

[ecotourist]

You said that as of a year ago there was no sludge. And now you want to use an engine flush to clean out sludge.

Why?

What would be wrong with simply preventing the formation of sludge by doing regular (5,000 mile) changes with a good quality oil?

 

[kschachn]

For shock & awe, BG EPR 109 or Liqui Moly Engine Flush.

For low and slow but effective cleaning, HPLEC mixed in with the cheapest dexos1 oil or VPBR.

I'm not sure what, if anything would be cleaned at this point.

 

[kschachn]

Starts the thread with the word sludge. Then says it looked good a year ago. How about pulling the rocker cover and posting a picture for the members here to decide. I could care less what he noted. Brand or type changes do not need flushes at all.

By saying he noted it, I meant he made a post about it.

 

[ecotourist]

I wonder if the thread starter has bought into the idea that routine engine flushes would be a good idea.

In my opinion they're a waste of good oil and a "pocket flush" for the unwary.

 

[Charmet37]

I use Mobil 1 high mileage fully synthetic 5w30, Changing brands was the only reason for the flush.

 

[ecotourist]

I use Mobil 1 high mileage fully synthetic 5w30, Changing brands was the only reason for the flush.

Mobil 1 is good oil. What are you trying to get rid of?

You can just change the brand of oil you use at the next change if you want to. All motor oil is mutually compatible.

I wouldn't use 4 quarts of different brands at the same oil change (but even that would probably work out fine).

 

[Will4]

I would like to know are there any safe chemicals or methods to clean sludge out of a engine? Thanks.

Use a 500 to 1000 mile oil change, use Synthetic blend for less cost, add about 6 ounces of either Essentialube, Lucas Motor Treatment, Marvel Ultimate, or Marvel Mystery oil to the crankcase. Put some in the fuel also, so the top ring is treated. All of these are designed to be run in the engine during normal driving.
For a 2000 mile interval, there are three products that I have used: Rislone Engine Treatment, Hot Shot's Stiction Eliminator, and Motorkote Sludge Remover. Hot Shot's is fully Synthetic if you want that.

Follow up with High Mileage oil for a 3000 mile OCI. If you do all three, 500, 2000, 3000, your engine should be well treated by then.

 

[CleanSump]

You don't need to do it, but you'll feel better by doing it.
Read POST #16.
Done.
Short OCIs of synthetic after a life of good synthetic aren't going to do it. Oil that left any deposts won't clean out those deposits.
Liquid magic of solvents, thin oil, and/or kerosene marketed in the 1960s/1970s ? Really? What century are we in now?
Just don't do it.

 

[ecotourist]

Use a 500 to 1000 mile oil change, use Synthetic blend for less cost, add about 6 ounces of either Essentialube, Lucas Motor Treatment, Marvel Ultimate, or Marvel Mystery oil to the crankcase. Put some in the fuel also, so the top ring is treated. All of these are designed to be run in the engine during normal driving.
For a 2000 mile interval, there are three products that I have used: Rislone Engine Treatment, Hot Shot's Stiction Eliminator, and Motorkote Sludge Remover. Hot Shot's is fully Synthetic if you want that.

Follow up with High Mileage oil for a 3000 mile OCI. If you do all three, 500, 2000, 3000, your engine should be well treated by then.

I don't think he needs any of that. He has a high mile engine that he says doesn't have any sludge.

He should just change his oil regularly (like every 5,000 miles) using any good quality motor oil. And if he wants to change brands (which he apparently does) he should just go for it. It's as simple as that.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Use a 500 to 1000 mile oil change, use Synthetic blend for less cost, add about 6 ounces of either Essentialube, Lucas Motor Treatment, Marvel Ultimate, or Marvel Mystery oil to the crankcase. Put some in the fuel also, so the top ring is treated. All of these are designed to be run in the engine during normal driving.
For a 2000 mile interval, there are three products that I have used: Rislone Engine Treatment, Hot Shot's Stiction Eliminator, and Motorkote Sludge Remover. Hot Shot's is fully Synthetic if you want that.

Follow up with High Mileage oil for a 3000 mile OCI. If you do all three, 500, 2000, 3000, your engine should be well treated by then.

Is there any objective testing anywhere that supports any of your claims? You know, tests that weren’t sponsored or paid for by the manufacturer of each additive? Just wondering; would love to see it.

 

[hrv]

I remember back in the 50s and the 60s some of the old timers would put in a quart of kerosene and drive it about 10 miles or so...then change the oil....dont know if it helped much but they said it would get the sludge out...

 

[Donald]

The guys on CarTalk mention using diesel fuel in the crankcase rather than motor oil. They said a few people they know saw good results. But the engines they tried it on got destroyed.

Don't take this as a recommendation. But if your try it please report the results with pictures and copy of the invoice for the new engine you will probably need.

I am pretty sure each of the CarTalk guys tried it on their brother's car. Not their own.

 

[Slick3914]

Not yet, I need to look into auto-RX

Auto-RX was the hottest thing on this board 15 years ago. Half of the posts on this board were Auto-RX related

 

[Trav]

Every snake oil known to man has had its day on this board with some posters at one time or another.

 

[Astro14]

Folks - the OP asked about cleaning sludge. Then said he didn’t think there was much. Then said when the valve cover was off a year ago, “it looked good”.

So, I would suggest we avoid the extreme solutions in response, as I don’t think this engine has much wrong with it.