Engine flush at every oil change???
- Thread starter Dr. T
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If you change your oil on a regular basis then you do not need to use an engine flush.
If the engine is so dirty it would need a flush then i would be concerned about a large amount of dirt being removed might damage the engine.
In this case you should remove the oil pan and valve cover and clean it out by hand first put it back together and then use the flush.
If the engine is so dirty it would need a flush then i would be concerned about a large amount of dirt being removed might damage the engine.
In this case you should remove the oil pan and valve cover and clean it out by hand first put it back together and then use the flush.
How about a Auto-Rx® maintenance dosage of 1/2 ounce per quart and 1/2 ounce for the filter, used every oil change?
1 oz/qt of LC at oil change plus one ounce total per thousand miles is supposed to keep things happy inside your engine. Shouldn't need to repeat flushes once it's cleaned and then maintained.quote:
Originally posted by satterfi:
An LC flush at every oil change might be a good idea.
It doesn't cost much and if the product is as good as claimed, it will keep your rings groovy.
A three fluid ounce dose of ARX in my new oil change works well for me. That 3 ounces is spread out into an 8 quart system(Northstar V-8). Believe two ounces in the normal 4-5 quart system would work equally well.
Dr.T, there is no harm to doing a proper flush at every oil change.
I don't see the need to do it that frequently. With normal OCIs, you could probably do this every 3-4th oil change for some cleaning.
And, if you really want to do this, then make your own flush. Use biodiesel or kerosene. A gallon for $2-4 will last for 4 flushes which is cheaper then any over the counter single flush.
I don't see the need to do it that frequently. With normal OCIs, you could probably do this every 3-4th oil change for some cleaning.
And, if you really want to do this, then make your own flush. Use biodiesel or kerosene. A gallon for $2-4 will last for 4 flushes which is cheaper then any over the counter single flush.
An issue with using non-motor oil-flushes is that short of dissassembly of the engine, its pretty difficult if not impossible to fully remove them from the engine.
Some of the kerosene/biodiesel/etc. remains in the flush afterwards. That is why I would highly recommend something like Auto-RX, or Exxon/Esso System Cleaner, which actually is designed to mix with and complement the action of quality lubricating oil.
Some of the kerosene/biodiesel/etc. remains in the flush afterwards. That is why I would highly recommend something like Auto-RX, or Exxon/Esso System Cleaner, which actually is designed to mix with and complement the action of quality lubricating oil.
I wouldn't go to the Dentist and have a tooth drilled, and a filling installed, to prevent a cavity from occuring.
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You could have your teeth pulled, though.
Patman
Staff member
You must be an anti-dentite!
Back on topic, I really don't like those motor flushes. They're too harsh. I can't see them being good for the valve seals and the overall lubrication of the engine long term. I agree that the fact that some oil remains in the engine after shutdown is another concern.
My strategy has been to NOT use oil additives or cleaners of any type, preferring instead to use shorter OCI to keep my engines clean (I bought all of my cars new). I, too, am concerned about seal & gasket damage and leftover cleaner remaining in the engine. My thought was that if I kept clean oil in there from new, then it would not have a chance to get dirty. However, when I switched from conventional to synthetic last summer, I realized that short OCI (3 mo/3000 mi) is not the entire answer. Synthetic M1 found some minor "dirt" and I changed it with a fresh batch of M1 after a few months. Now this second batch of M1 is staying clean.
Anyway, I realize now that periodic (& rare) internal engine cleaning via oil additives may be very useful in some cases, but my reading this board and my own experience is that synthetic oil like M1 does a reasonable cleaning job on its own. So why not just use M1 and enjoy the "built-in" cleaning properties without worrying that an additive may somehow reduce the lubricating factors of the oil?
Anyway, I realize now that periodic (& rare) internal engine cleaning via oil additives may be very useful in some cases, but my reading this board and my own experience is that synthetic oil like M1 does a reasonable cleaning job on its own. So why not just use M1 and enjoy the "built-in" cleaning properties without worrying that an additive may somehow reduce the lubricating factors of the oil?
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