Engine After ARX "Rinse" Phase>YUCK!

[ULVER]

WOW! After draining the dino post the ARX "rinse" phase, I took a peek inside the oil cap area with a flashlight. I noticed some small gobs of sludge on a few areas. YUCK!

In all honesty, since my odometer took a dump, right as I started the cleaning phase, both pahses could be very off on miles. No doubt my fault, as I think the ARX, was doing something. I had never, ever noticed this sludge sitting where it was before. Also, during the rinse, the CEL literally stayed on most operating times. Strange...car is running silky smooth. I am still using oil, and blowing smoke, however.

Any thoughts???

I had another bottle of ARX left, so I threw it in, with my change along with green GC. I know it won't be as effective as with dino, but...

Anyway, I might get a couple more bottles, and add two ounces, per qt. of oil I burn, and keep trying to clean...

Thanks for comments...

 

[SSDude]

Your car should stop smoking during the rinse phase. Carbon is coming out of your engine. This is what happened to my car when it had 16,000 miles on it. Frank told me not to panic. I the car stopped smoking and I cleaned the tailpipe. The tailpipe is still clean.

 

[Dark Jedi]

why would you waste GC when you knew you was going to do another treatment of ARX? should of dumped the dino in and wait till you got finished with the second treatment. I am sure the ELVES are crying about this as we speak.

by chance your trip odometer still work? if so you can try to keep track of the miles this way.

 

[darkdan]

Plus, considering we're testing to see if auto-rx can help solve 4.6L valve stem seal issues it would have been nice had you continued to course with dino.

Ulver, Ulver, Ulver.....when I come to GA the last week in Feb I'm going to choke you.

 

[bkrell]

Ulver, I am sure you are imagining those clumps. Quick, take it back before it's too late.

 

[fred0803]

Not flaming, BUT, where would someone think that Auto RX can fix a valve stem seal problem. Anyone who knows how these are affixes on the valves knows the reason for blow by.

It's not anything that a mechanic in a bottle can fix. You have to put new seals on. Most smoking on old cars and specifically Chrysler engines are the cause of valve stem seals deteriorating and wearing. Ever take one off and you know what I am talking about. Just did a job on a 3.0 Mitzu 88 Dynasty. Fired up the car and whala... smoke free. After 4 hours of work plus

 

[vairox]

"Not flaming, BUT, where would someone think that Auto RX can fix a valve stem seal problem. Anyone who knows how these are affixes on the valves knows the reason for blow by."

i was told the autorx removes the sludge from the seals and allows oil to condition and swell the seals... i laughed. anyone ever done a VOA on autorx ?

 

[Frank]

Auto-Rx is not a mechanic in a bottle. Valve seals
get hardened and you can replace them or you can clean them and restore correct pliability. Why don't you read the Auto-Rx FAQ and the complete Dyson Oil Analysis Test Data both on Auto-Rx and Cycle-Rx ? What other product on this board offers a money back guarantee strickly based on your satisfaction? sure we get our share of con's who use the product than say it did not work for them and get there money back. Do you think Dyson Oil Analysis would fabricate results with Auto-Rx ? we only ask you work with us on the honor system.Most we are proud to say do.

 

[darkdan]

The older Ford 4.6L have valve stem seal problems. In 96 they changed the material.

We were trying to see if the older type seals develop physical damange, or if it's a pliability/size issue from getting dirty.

Many many people have solved leaky seal issues with auto-rx. If the seal isn't physically damaged then there's a good chance auto-rx can help.

If it is physically damanged....consult a mechanic obviously.

 

[vairox]

thats a nice money back guarantee, considering the price... im not attacking auto-rx so no need to defend it so hastily, true or fasle auto-rx removes sludge from valve stem seals and allows oil to condition and and swell them if a swell additive is present? thats all i mentioned... im talking about a VOA on autorx itself, unless the independent test results on the site are indeed that....pretty high iron count.

the only thing i could find in regards to a VOA on auto-rx is from http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000081

quote:

---

undummy, I didn't realize anyone was waiting for a clean VOA of RX. Here it is, by OAI 5/14/01

Vis 7.1 cSt @100C = SAE 20w, mid grade.

Thats it every other element 0.

I needed a TBN but they refused to run it for me.
Dyson Analysis and OAI where having issues at the time, they started jerking my customers around by refusing to fax data etc.

---

i can send it for mass spec at SDSU if no one wants to run a VOA on it...

"Vis 7.1 cSt @100C = SAE 20w, mid grade.

Thats it every other element 0."

lots of cleanin goin' on.

 

[bkrell]

undummy, it's fatty acid esters. Similar in a sense to grp IV oil and LC. Esters clean, attach to metal, and soften seal materials. I don't think the formula itself needs to be criticized, it's the people, who like mentioned above, think it's a "mechanic in a bottle" and then berate the non-believers.

 

[vairox]

true... no such thing as a mechanic in a bottle, for the most part if you don't take care of your engine there isn't ANYTHING that is gonna save it, it's too late...rebuild or buy another. i.e send to a real mechanic

too many feel good's in a bottle nowadays.

 

[darkdan]

Using auto-rx is taking care of the engine.

 

[ULVER]

I think the ARX was working fine. Too bad the odometer took a dive. The valve stems weren't in the deal. I figured they were shot.

Seeing some sludge displaced was quite amazing. I got this ride with almost 80K on it. The next 80K were all with synthetic oil, and 5K OCI, max. So, I took care of this motor, as best I could.

IIRC, the ARX will still work with the GC, it will just compete somewhat. If this was my 2006 Camry, I might care a bit more...

ARX works...make no mistake about it...I wish the odometer did...lol!

 

[darkdan]

Ah, I thought you had high consumption because of bad valve stem seals.

Cleaning phases with synthetic under normal conditions (non-seal issues, extreme sludge, etc) are okay. Rinse phases should always be done with conventional.

When cleaning with a synthetic it would be a good idea to add a few miles.....but you don't have an odometer. LOL.

Dude, go buy a gauge cluster.