Early Oil Change on New VW EA888?

Right, but they aren't supposed to tell you to use this specific oil. That's why it's always a specification to meet. It would be possible to only have one oil to meet that specification, but the idea is that if any oil can submit to meet a standard then there will be multiple options on the market.
That is correct. The Mag-Moss act in the U.S. says that an OEM can't require that you service or buy genuine parts to maintain your warranty, BUT they have to meet the requirements/specifications of the OEM.

Edit. Afermarket performance parts are not part of this and are not "oem equivalent".
 
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I finally got around to changing out the FF @ 1389 miles.

Oil was dirtier than I expected it to be, but certainly not terrible. Very very little metallic in the bottom of the drain pan. There were a few small flakes of some blue Material in the filter pleats, as well as some debris. The factory Hengst filter did its job well.

Vehicle is fairly easy to service, especially compared to our previous Tucson.

I’ll do another dump at 5k Miles to put me back on a 5k mile schedule.

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Ha. You guys are so foolish.

I’ll also say that I saw metal in the dipstick oil of a WRX. That one had decent metal in the pan at a 600/700 mile initial drain. What willfull ignorance is on display here. Amazing.

It’s clear you have limited real world experience, something I have suspected of some of the more vocal members here.

You should hit pause and learn something, sometimes.
So you routinely remove the oil pan on nearly new cars to check for metal particles!
 
Oh boy.
One more try…

Try a fun experiment at home.

Next time you change your own oil, from your well broken in, healthy engine, clean the drain pan, (preferably black plastic) and leave the drained oil overnight. When you spill it into your used oil container, observe the last 1/2” of oil in the pan. Shop lights are not good enough. Take it into direct sunlight. Look at all the nice metal that never made it into the filter. See the metallic slurry at the bottom as you stir it with your finger.

Break in oil is approx. 10x-50x or more than this. And bigger pieces.

Let us all know how it goes.
Break in oil?

Please list this oil so I can buy some
 
1) Drain pan not oil sump.

2) Break in oil: used oil drained during break in.

Hope this helps.

I think you were clownin’, but on BITOG one never knows for sure.
 
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1) Drain pan not oil sump.

2) Break in oil: used oil drained during break in.

Hope this helps.

I think you were clownin’, but on BITOG one never knows for sure.
I know what people consider “break in oil”

I asked you for an example of this special “break in oil” not a repeat of the term.

I personally don’t think Manufacturers use a special oil in new engines anymore.

If you know something I don’t please put a link to the “break in oil” you have been buying.

Always happy to get new information.

Because I don’t know of any manufacturer that still specs a 1000 mile OCI on new cars anymore

Last one I bought that did was my 2003 WRX and my 2004 Legacy
 
I meant literally, the oil in the engine while it is breaking in.

Do manufacturers use a specific oil for break in? Possibly. Some of the early UOA here show really high moly oils especially for Japan brands. The high moly could be from left over assembly lube , but is more likely in the actual formula in my opinion. I don’t have a viewpoint on this, other than I am sure most brands have a special brew they use for first start at the factory. I doubt it is the same oil that is in the sump when it gets ready to ship.

Boutique brands offer break in oils, however. Amsoil being one of them.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-sae...MI8v-ErPPBhQMVvtLCBB3jbgdxEAAYASAAEgKD9_D_BwE

https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497748-br-15w-50-conventional-break-in-oil.html?q=Break+in

https://www.redlineoil.com/break-in-oil-40

https://www.redlineoil.com/engine-oil-break-in-additive

https://shopmotul.com/product/break-in-oil-10w-40
 
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I meant literally, the oil in the engine while it is breaking in.

Do manufacturers use a specific oil for break in? Possibly. Some of the early UOA here show really high moly oils especially for Japan brands. The high moly could be from left over assembly lube , but is more likely in the actual formula in my opinion. I don’t have a viewpoint on this, other than I am sure most brands have a special brew they use for first start at the factory. I doubt it is the same oil that is in the sump when it gets ready to ship.

Boutique brands offer break in oils, however. Amsoil being one of them.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-sae...MI8v-ErPPBhQMVvtLCBB3jbgdxEAAYASAAEgKD9_D_BwE

https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497748-br-15w-50-conventional-break-in-oil.html?q=Break+in

https://www.redlineoil.com/break-in-oil-40

https://www.redlineoil.com/engine-oil-break-in-additive

https://shopmotul.com/product/break-in-oil-10w-40
Manufacturers fill with whatever oil is spec’d by the them and the oil company they partner with.

Current OEM oil for VW is Mobil in the proper VW spec for the vehicle being filled.
 
Manufacturers fill with whatever oil is spec’d by the them and the oil company they partner with.

Current OEM oil for VW is Mobil in the proper VW spec for the vehicle being filled.
Engines are made in Europe. Unless they fill them in the US, fill in will be Castrol.
 
First start oil at factory is not likely on any shelf at any dealership anywhere.Its likely a special brew used for that purpose on the test bench and recycled through many engines. When it ships, yes it will have a spec oil. Again the Japanese seem to like high moly for first fill. First fill and first start are two different things.
 
First start oil at factory is not likely on any shelf at any dealership anywhere.Its likely a special brew used for that purpose on the test bench and recycled through many engines. When it ships, yes it will have a spec oil. Again the Japanese seem to like high moly for first fill. First fill and first start are two different things.
The first start is different.
The first fill for VW is probably a regional supplier.
 
Found this, could be BS but I doubt it. Too many details that are known accurate or sensible:

Quote:

I am an engineer with one of largest manufacturers of engines in the world, a company that sells billions of dollars of them every year. Items #1 and #2 are terribly incorrect.

EVERY engine that we manufacture goes from assembly into a test cell where it is started, warmed up, and sent immediately to 100% full load. Yes, it is "floored."

When we do engine testing, even prototype engines are assembled (mostly with Lubriplate 105), warmed up with standard petroleum oil, and immediately go to full rated horsepower while the dyno pulls them down from rated HP to the lowest RPM of torque peak.

Almost every automotive manufacturer follows this practice as well. So do motorcycle manufacturers. I personally saw new Ducatis going off the line in Bologna into a chassis dyno where they were started, briefly warmed, and then immediate run up AT FULL LOAD all the way to redline.

Why do they do this?

1) The freshly honed/machined surfaces can only do an ideal break-in when they are, in fact, fresh. Once the asperities and surfaces begin to smooth, they lose the ability to mate to each other properly.

2) It prevents customer complaints of high oil consumption and poor MPG because customers tend to follow outdated, bad advice like babying a new engine.


Back when machining and honing technology was far less advanced, and tolerances could not be held as well, there was perhaps some validity to babying a new engine. But this advice is woefully out of date.

Instead, the best thing you can for a new engine is:
1) Warm it up to full operating temperature
2) Do several full throttle runs that stop well short of redline
3) Idle the engine to let it cool a bit
4) Repeat steps 2&3 several times
5) Change the oil and filter.

Done.

By and large, new engines require almost no break in at all because of the "abuse" they suffer at the factory. That's why they can ship new cars like Corvettes with Mobil 1 from the factory. No need to worry about the syntehtic preventing break-in when the engine is already broken in before installed in the car.

End quote.
 
the closest regional supplier is LM ;)😂
in fact i think that LM has the most oils with vw approvals ,i would call LM a vw oil brand easily
Regional has different meanings.
If you take a map, you might see there are other parts of the world. Not expensive, and you can find many online too.
 
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