Durablend; cheap and meets high standards

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Was at work today looking at oils and noticed the Valvoline Durablend is a SM/CF oil and it meets ACEA A3 and GF-4 standards. and it's only $2.95/qt vs others like Castrol blend for $3.28/qt and it's only a SM/GF-4 oil. I did some reading up on the ACEA Specs, and ISLAC. I think I'm gonna use the most highly spec decorated oil under $3/qt.
 
I think Dra-blend is going to be my new oil of choice. Can't believe I never actually researched all these service/performance ratings. The only SM/CF rated oils are the high end full syns... Mobil 1, SYNTEC etc. I think durablend is the only oil that is SM/CF rated that's not fully Synthetic.
 
Might be oils like Havoline/Chevron would meet the spec, but they choose not to spend the money to test it to ACEA. But wouldn't most, if not all oils that pass SM/GF4 meet ACEA? CF? Who knows, and who's testing to that spec? Folks are mostly looking for API SM (or SL, or whatever is in the manual), some may know enough to look for GF4. But who's looking for a CF? Or ACEA? No one. That being the case, why try for a pass/fail on THOSE standards anyway?

That would be my idea if I were the marketer/bean counter for the likes of a Havoline.
 
true. but why do all the oils like Syntec flash their ACEA cred's and Valvoline's too. Valv's dino 10-40 is ACEA A3. Not on the bottle, but according to the website it is.
 
I am beginning to form the opinion that some of these new GRP III, IV, V blends are better than the straight PAO'S or Polyol Ester oils one can buy for their average daily driver. In racing applications perhaps the PAO'S & POE's are better but for a plain 'ol American daily driver they aren't really necessary short of residing at the Artic circle. In Europe many hipo cars are thriving on what are really semi-sythetic oils. Am I crazy to think this? Cheers all! DV
 
Hold on with those ACEA ratings, they are self-reported. No test sequence, just parameters. I know DuraBlend 10w-40 met A3 is previous versions, good to see it come back with the low-add SM spec. Now, was the DB you see with A3 5w-30? That would make it thick with HT/HS over 3.5cP. I see the 10w-40 making it, but an A3 oil with 5w cranking would indeed be a designation worth noting. fwiw, ST synth states A3, maybe just the 10w-30, I dunno. With the Hondas I'm now looking for A5 oils. It would make sense, imo, if oil cos made their 5w-30 thin 10cSt for new cars and mpg (maybe with A5 if possible) and their 10w-30 thicker, 12cSt with A3 for Euro and older cars.
 
Seems like only the 40+ weights carry a A3 badge. the 5-20 to 10-30 carry a ACEA A1... engergy conserving label in europe. I just got off the phone with a valvoline tech and he told me the conventional 10-40 meets ACEA A3 also. and their product spec sheets says it too. so the only difference between say the dino 10-40 and DB 10-40 is the TBN... 7 vs 8. SM vs SM/CF. Both are SM/GF4/A3 spec oil.
 
but for some reason 10-40 Durablend is becoming hard to come by around me. Went to 2 auto stores...both are out of stock on 10-40.
 
I call bunk on regular Valv 10w-40 meeting A3. Someone should put it through the sequence. My MiL's 1995 A6 calls for 7500 intervals on an A3 oil. Think Valv AC would make it? I've pondered how close SM gets to A3/A5, but don't think it's that close.
 
What is A3 ?
A European standard of long drain oil with an HTHS greater than 3.5, over kill.
Castrol Gtx meet those standards? No.
Does A3 certified mean it's like a world of difference from GF-4?
The question is, What does YOUR vehicle call for? If a vehicle calls for energy conserving fuel then an A3 oil simply thicker and uses more energy. A3 is a very old standard and A1 & A5 is more applicable for most of our uses. Or if you don't own a Euro car ifgnore that crazy ACEA stuff and run a good IlSAC approved oil of the proper grade.
 
GTX doesn't say anything about A3 on the bottle or on the product spec sheet. Valvoline's AC only says it on the spec sheet and the tech on the phone said it did meet A3.

How sure are we that AC Valvoline 10-40 meets A3?

A1 and A3 seem to conflict with each other. A1 is energy conserving. A3 is High performance/extended drain interval.
 
The only major difference between ACEA A1 and A3 is the HTHS and Noack volatility. For A1 HTHS max is 3.5cP and must be graeater than 2.9cP (unless it is a xW-20 grade where it must be greater than 2.6cP). FOr A3, HTHS is 3.5cP minimum. Volatility for A1 is less than or equal to 15 and for A3 it is less than or equal to 13. A1 and A3 must each pass the same European engine test requirements at teh same limits except for the fuel economy test, which is not required for A3. So typically, 5W's are A1 because it fits with where the HTHS (usually around 2.9-3.1) and 10W's are A3 becasue they have higher HTHS's (and get poorer fuel economy).

A3 is not a high performance, extended drain oil compared to an A1, but is designed for cars (typically European) that require higher oil film thickness for wear protection.
 
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