Dumb questions about anti-seize lube

[Lord Haw Haw]

I want to change my spark plugs and I hear that you should use anti-seize lube.

I've been hearing different things from different people. Some say you should apply it to all the threads, some say the bottom third, some say the top third.

I bought some and the directions don't specifically mention spark plugs. But it does say not to let it touch your skin.

So my questions:

1) What area of the spark plug threads should it be applied to?

2) What do you use to spread it around if you can't touch it?

I know I can get the straight scoop here. Thanks in advance for your replies. Any other tips or things I should know are welcome.

 

[Dr_No]

No such thing as a dumb question.
I have no idea what the answer is

 

[alreadygone]

Which threads do you want to sieze to the head? Top third,bottom third? None? I'd suggest appling a SPARING coat to all the threads. Take my word for it, if the amounts you're speaking of exposure to would harm ya, I'd have been dead YEARS ago! Seriously, from your post I'd guess you bought one of the tooth paste squirt tube containers. Good enough for your intended use. Think I'd daub it out onto a cotton swab,(steal em while the ol' lady's not lookin') then use that to apply to threads. Any tiny amount, no matter how applied's better than none.

Bob

 

[XS650]

Don't get any on the fire end of the plug (the insulator in the center). Some anti seizes will contaminate the plug and hurt performance.

 

[Quest]

Basically, here's the deal:

If you regularly service your plugs (pull them off every 2 years for inspection and are then torqued to spec) regularly, IMHO there shall never be the need for anti-seize on the spark plug threads.

If you are the type that don't care about tune ups, spark plugs inspections on a regular basis, etc. then yes, you shall seriously consider putting on a small coating of (preferrably lead-free) high temp anti-seize compound and then carefully thread them back in there. Even with anti-seize on the thread, chance are, they will still seize up on you given enough time and post-combustion deposits accumulating on the tip end of the spark plug threads(that's where the seizure begins for it's the deposits on that portion of the spark plug, not the upper portion, that gives the most trouble as mileage rakes up).

Good luck.

Q.

p.s. been in auto for 18+ yrs now and never have 1 spark plug seize up on me even without using any anti-seize on all alu head cars.

 

[Mudcat]

I think anti-sieze use on plugs is a debated issue. Some say never, some say always and there are arguments for both sides. Keeping it off the business end of the plug and off your skin are a couple of good tips.

I have used a ceramic based anti-sieze on plugs before and would suggest against this type. The plugs came out easily enough, but the material became clumpy and brittle and caked in the threads.

Something else to consider is torque spec. I realize most folks don't use a torque wrench to install plugs. However, if you do, consider backing off the torque a bit if using anti-sieze.

 

[Quest]

Yes, I torqued all the spark plugs in all my years of servicing cars.

Since I do not use any motor oil or anti-seize on spark plug threads, I do not have to worry about possibly over-torquing the spark plug due to additional friction reduction.

The only time I would use anti-seize is the time I replace/service O2 sensor. Virtually all NTK O2 sensors I've used to service Japanese cars all come stock with a light coating of anti-seize on their threads already, and I usually use them with full confidence.

Q.

 

[NYEngineer]

Nobody's mentioned that the larger cans of Nev R Sieze have a brush in the cap.

 

[Vilan]

I put it on all the threads. I also used my finger and ain't dead yet, but a Q-tip is probably a safer way. Just don't use too much.

Remember, as you're screwing in the spark plug, the anti-seize will get smeared around, so it'll probably end up on all the threads no matter what you do.

 

[Kestas]

Sparingly on the threads, and keep it away from the tip and the seating surface (to prevent overtorque).

I've heard of too many seized plug stories to ignore the use of antiseize.

One place it won't help is the poorly designed heads where a few threads from the plug stick out into the chamber and get caked with carbon. They'll be a problem during removal no matter what you do.

 

[paulo57509]

I use the Champion stuff that's in the left column about half-way down:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/2008Individual/Cat08271.pdf

It's not a paste. It's more like graphite in a liquid carrier. It doesn't seem to build and cake up as bad as the silvery paste stuff.

 

[Oldmoparguy1]

I always use a little anti-seize on sparkplugs. I've experienced stuck plugs, even back in the day of iron heads. I bought a spray can of nickel based anti-seize well over 30 years ago from J.C. Whitneys and still use it today. The can lost its charge a few years ago so I cut a hole in it and use an acid brush now. Best I've ever used. Prior to that, I used moly coat.

 

[mazduh30]

The metal on the silver/chrome looking spark plug is design as a lube. Use anti-seize on the black metal plugs...that's what I was taught.

 

[Master ACiD]

IF you put antiseeze on sparkplug threads or not it shouldnt matter about torque so long as you pay attention to the FEEL of the crush washer on the plug you can feel when that sucker touches the head and starts to crush. you can also feel when the crushing has stopped.

personally i use antiseeze on nearly everything. plugs, head bolts, suspension bolts, throttle body bushings, etc. i almost use it as a replacment for grease.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:

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Nobody's mentioned that the larger cans of Nev R Sieze have a brush in the cap.

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I graduated to the pint paint can size. No brush included like the plebe version

I use it on everything (although I've yet to use it on plugs). Thermostat gaskets (make that just about any gasket) ..any exhaust work (the next guy will thank me). Caliper friction points ...the backside of aluminum wheels to keep them from sticking to the rear drums.

 

[RFIRE]

Remember to read the package since many/some plugs already are treated at the factory with a coating to prevent a freeze-up of the plug.

Richard

 

[mechtech2]

Like mentioned above, use sparingly and apply with a q-tip.
You don't want gooey globs to foul the plug .

 

[Merkava_4]

Quote:

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2) What do you use to spread it around if you can't touch it?

---

 

[Oldmoparguy1]

Hey, hey! It's an acid brush!

 

[johnd]

I just put the plug threads against the tube, squeeze and rotate. It just fills up the grooves in the threads. It will coat nicely when you screw it in. I too am looking for the "crush" of the washer when tightening-as if I could get a torque wrench on the plugs in my car anyway. I can barely get the plugs out and back in as it is.