Dual Baldwin 7311-MPGs In Light Duty Gas Engines

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I'm new here, and couldn't find a rule stating that I couldn't go ahead and post. If I am in error, please let me know and I will remove at once.

I've decided that I can't stand the onset of an intermittent lifter tick and the hard to reach/dirty to change oil filter on my 2014 RAM 1500's 5.7L Hemi so it's getting a remote mount filter. I purchased the following items to do that job:

This filter pad adapter:
https://derale.com/products/filtrat...oller-with-thread-in-probe-25-amp-detail

This dual filter mount:
https://shop.perma-cool.com/61221-Comp-Dual-Filter-Mount-10AN-SAE-Ports-3-4-16-Thread-61221.htm

...and a bunch of -10an hose and straight fittings. Those hoses will have no less than 5" radius bends and will be no where near anything that hurt them. The dual filter mount will be bolted directly to the frame rail in front of the engine on the passenger side where I've got 10" of space.

So about the filters...

The stock Mopar filter (only one that won't leak; you wouldn't believe how ridiculous the dealer was) is MO-899 and has the following specs:

part number bypass flow anti drainback valve nominal micron rating
MO-899 (stock) 16psi 9-11gpm yes bout a half inch.

I have considered many different options, but as I have a huge amount of space, why not use a giant filter with excellent flow and super fine filtering? What about dual Baldwin 7311-MPGs? The specs are nowhere near the stock bypass, but I'll be running two of them off of -10an hoses within 2ft the original mount point, so flow and pressure loss shouldn't be an issue, right?

Here are the Baldwin specs that I *think* are correct, but they are stolen from overdrivesteve here (https://forums.ihpartsamerica.com/showthread.php?t=4022&page=2):

Part number bypass flow anti drainback valve nominal micron rating
Baldwin 7311-MPG 8psi 10gpm @ 2psi yes 8 nominal, 20 absolute


Thank you for reading this far.

Based on what I've read the Baldwin 7311-MPG seems like an awesome filter for a huge engine, but this is a little Ram gas burner pumping 5w-20. How can I blow this thing up?
 
Welcome! Nice first post. Sounds like an awesome setup! Pics would be great! Wish I could fit that length on my Fusion, those specs are impressive.

It's definitely going to be overkill, one of those should do the trick just fine. Double filtration likely isn't necessary, so if you can set the mount up for single flow, I'd do that... or find one of the bypass filters that takes a tiny amount of the flow to filter it and send it back in. Find one of the 2 micron filters for that, and your engine should be spotless.

Only downsides I see is the cost of the extra filters and oil needed to fill them up, but since you've obviously put a lot of thought into it, go for it!
 
Welcome!

Interesting idea for a setup. The only question i have is, is there a concrete answer to what causes the hemi tick?

I've heard everything from bad lifters, dirt in the lifters, short pushrods, bad exhaust manifold bolts etc. Is there a concensus on what causes the tick? I would hate to see you put all that time and effort into this and still end up with the tick.
 
The most solid thing I've seen to define the Hemi tick was while I was digging through burla's posts on his findings. The Hemi MDS camshaft is SADI instead of billet, and the lobes seem to take a he!! of a beating while MDS is in operation. Short of replacing the camshaft with a billet core, I don't think there is any fix that will truly "solve" the issue.

Burla has reported numerous friends/web acquaintances that have significantly improved their tick by using very high moly oils, namely Redline. But the root cause is the camshaft core being the incorrect material.
 
Thanks guys!

Hemi tick makes me wanna scream. Replacement cams are $800. Those heads flow something like 330cfm STOCK, the block is crazy stout, and I really dig on the MDS and dual path intake, so I really like this engine.

*But* I'm doing it anyway. The dual setup was about $10 more and all about some overkill. The added capacity should keep temps down in summer while I haul about 7500lbs of trailer and racecar up various TN hills and mountains while making oil changes a breeze... if I ever change it again.

I'll post pictures as soon as I get started with the install. The filter adapter, fittings, and mount are all black with stainless lines so the giant orange filters will pop super hard.
 
Originally Posted by Linctex
Here is my dual system

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...ridiculous-filtration-system#Post4713720



I saw your setup and share your enthusiasm for ultimate filtering performance. Nice work! At some point I might add a bypass leg to the system just to take things even farther.

Will the Fram XG8A filter down to 8 micron nominal? I've got lots of room for 7" long filters and figured "why go into bypass EVER?", plus I've got three Baldwin dealers within about five miles of my house, *but* the Fram would be even easier to get, and probably cheaper too.
 
Looks like I can't get the Baldwin B7311-MPG without waiting several weeks, so that's a no-go. Makes me sad too, because I was pumped about that 20um absolute rating, but oh well. Called Baldwin and talked to their super nice and patient engineer (Wix was not so nice) and he recommended the standard B2, which is something like 12um nominal and 30um absolute, and checked their database for anything lower. Said everything in this form factor is around 25um and up for absolute rating. If I want crazy clean oil, I'll have to add a bypass filter to the return side of my dual filters that dumps in a low pressure area like the valve cover.

Not into running fresh from the pump unfiltered oil through a 2um fuel filter, which is what would happen if I just screwed a bypass filter into my second mounting port.

So unless anyone knows of any other 3/4-16 3.5x5 or 7 inch form factor spin on full flow lube filters with an absolute filter rating of 20um, a flow rating at or above 9-11gpm, and a bypass valve with at least a 6lbs spring and ADB valve, I'm going with the FRAM XG8A or maybe a Baldwin B2.
 
@DoubleWasp 99% down to 20.00000001 microns sounds wicked good to me, AND they are cheap and available. Also like your name: I'm totally down with the awesome P&W R-2800 and its 2300hp worth of supercharged water/meth injected air cooled American righteousness waiting for me to get rich and buy one.

On that "hemi tick" deal:

I doubt the factory valve springs have enough pressure to bash an iron cam lobe flat. Billet cams are usually used when the spec is for a BIG lift solid roller with monster duration and crazy aggressive ramps for HARD valve acceleration. Double valve spring sets in the high 300s lbs/in range over the nose is usually in order. No way a factory engine is going to have a spring like that so I'd be surprised if cam failure is the cause. That would have to be some gooey soft iron, although I've never heard of SADI so maybe that stuff is super weak? I wonder if the 5.7L Chargers do it?

My particular "hemi tick" is very intermittent and seems to come and go. It'll do it when I start it up, sometimes, then quite after I'm about an eighth of mile up the road and then start again 30 minutes later while sitting in traffic. I can watch oil temps from my info cluster and have never seen anything over 218*F even towing in the summer. Right now I'm running 5qts of 5/20 M1 and 2qts of 5/30 Castrol synthetic (??whatever was on sale in single bottles that day??) but I'll go back to the 5W20 synthetic on this next change when I install the remote filter setup.

Stay tuned for pics and possibly a cool flow test involving a drill powered pump.
 
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