Don't see much about Redline here. Why not?

Never really got excited about it….

Even during those F&F days……
Sometimes that excitement feeling doesnt happen overnight. It does with their high pea content fuel system cleaner most definitely and fairly soon. I can remember way back when O'Reilly did 5 qt of Pennzoil Synthetic or O'Reilly Synthetic with a house filter for 20$. First time I used synthetic oil it felt more responsive, smoother, etc. Always felt better after a service from my butt dyno 😅
 
Sometimes that excitement feeling doesnt happen overnight. It does with their high pea content fuel system cleaner most definitely and fairly soon. I can remember way back when O'Reilly did 5 qt of Pennzoil Synthetic or O'Reilly Synthetic with a house filter for 20$. First time I used synthetic oil it felt more responsive, smoother, etc. Always felt better after a service from my butt dyno 😅

I keep forgetting I want to try their fuel system cleaner. Heard great things about it…..
 
Watching a few youtubes on Redline and reading posts on Reddit and people absolutely swear by the stuff. I've decided to give the 5w30 a try. Seems to be better than Amsoil based on what others are saying. Definitely isn't cheap but I ordered from FCP Euro. They don't seem to charge anything extra so if I don't like it I won't use it again but if I do like it , $18 a change moving forward for me (shipping), not bad.
Ya I don't know how people quantify "better". RL was very popular in BMW circles back in the 2000's because everyone thought API SN would cause their engines to fail early.
In many ways RL reminds me of an older HPL.
 
I think RL has improved a bit since 2022 based on latest revision to SDS where it was pointed out that they are now using a higher quality PAO. The ester component is still there based on high virgin oxidation values. The high-performance line is still full SAPS. Very shear stable oil line. They also have access to P66's testing facility.
 
Use a box instead of a padded envelope and keep the sample unknown to the handlers, on what's inside the box.
It costs me more to ship that way. But I'm batting 1000 in getting the oil to the places of Analysis.
Negative replies from the anti-frankenblend crowd, has soured me on showing success-achieving VOAs/UOAs anymore.

Red Line has it's followers. The only Red Line I was once interested in, was the nicely built white bottle 0w30. But I swore-off purchasing any more 0w20/30 oils, while owning my two Hyunkia vehicles. My Kia 2.0 is the epitome tattle-tale for exposing loud oils from the quieter ones. That engine produces a much quieter sound with 0w40. Mobil-1 Euro and Castrol Edge Euro..
 
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Their D4 ATF is by far the most popular fluid in BMW manual gearboxes among enthusiasts. Smooth shifting, good on track (not too thin like D6).
Only smoother fluid I had in my manual BMW was Motul MultiATF.
Over time, I've experimented with all of Redline's gearbox oils in the E46. First transmission OCI was at 1,000 miles. I was surprised at how much metal came out with that first drain. 😳 I refilled with D4-ATF. I used it for awhile but it felt too thin. Tried MT-90 next, too thick. Experimented back and forth between MT-80 and MT-85 before finally settling on MT-85. Climate is a big factor in choosing which to use.

Scott
 
Over time, I've experimented with all of Redline's gearbox oils in the E46. First transmission OCI was at 1,000 miles. I was surprised at how much metal came out with that first drain. 😳 I refilled with D4-ATF. I used it for awhile but it felt too thin. Tried MT-90 next, too thick. Experimented back and forth between MT-80 and MT-85 before finally settling on MT-85. Climate is a big factor in choosing which to use.

Scott
I used their D4 on track. 101-102f ambient temperature. But that is E90. Could be also gearbox thing. I have HPL MTL 75W now in, and definitely not as smooth and too thin when warms up.
 
I think this is fairly common - I have 10W30 in a WGen9500 that gets pretty hot - but I’m reading here that low Noack might not mean low consumption

I see that the WGen9500 is a Generator, and you say it gets Hot. Have you verified Oil Temperatures with a Thermal Probe after the Generator has been turned off? You may be fine with the 10W-30, I am thinking that where you live a 5W-40 or 15W-40 would be better for your Generator. I did this with my Lawnmower Engine, I took a temp with an infrared gun at the Oil Filter, but the oil temperature with the Thermal Probe was like 30 Degrees Higher. On these Air-cooled Engines I am looking at HTHS Numbers and the film thickness of the oil at 250 Degrees Fahrenheit.

The 10W-30 you are using might be fine, the only way to know is if you can take some Oil Temp Readings.

I love Noack Numbers, but on my Lawnmower engine that is air-cooled like your Generator, I saw 245 Degrees Fahrenheit, I stepped up to a thicker oil with better HTHS Numbers. Again, there is more to an Oil than there Noack Numbers, I just cannot get away from the Numbers.

There is a member here that said something about running Mobil 1 15W-50 in his Generator in Florida and others that used a thinner oil, it could have been 5W-30 or 10W-30, they had issues. Again, it is HTHS and Film Thickness that you only get from a thicker oil when the Weather is Hot, or you are running your Generator for a very long time.
 
I ran it for awhile in my 1997 maxima and for an OCI on my ram diesel.

Good oil, just too expensive for regular OCIs in a street vehicle.

Their 15w-40 raised max boost pressure in my truck by 2 psi immediately before and after. Very weird. Perhaps less friction in turbo bearing housing.

I haven’t bought any redline oil in 20 years. Their shockproof gear oil and engine assembly lube are superb.
 
I use Redline HP in all the older Pcars and Wife's Golf R and Wrangler and Redline driveline oils in almost the entire fun fleet.

Some general observations on the gear fluids include:
-Much better shifting, especially cold, on the old Land Rover and BMW 2002 over who knows what the prior owners had in there and a small but noticeable improvement in the TR6 over the NAPA GL4 that I had used previously.
-Heavy shockproof really quieted down a whining but otherwise fine differential on the old diesel Rover.
-Increased dripping from the older British stuff, especially the Rover transfer cases...not surprising, I just add more and empty the drip pans.
-The Redline recommended 75w90NS was not good in the Porsche transaxles. Difficult to select gears when cool and made them extremely notchy when warm. I actually didn't mind the notchiness, but did not like having to push the lever into place until the fluid warmed up. Worth noting that the G96/G86 transaxles are known for being a bit finicky with fluids.
 
Watching a few youtubes on Redline and reading posts on Reddit and people absolutely swear by the stuff. I've decided to give the 5w30 a try. Seems to be better than Amsoil based on what others are saying. Definitely isn't cheap but I ordered from FCP Euro. They don't seem to charge anything extra so if I don't like it I won't use it again but if I do like it , $18 a change moving forward for me (shipping), not bad.
Here’s a few UOA’s I have performed on Redline oil and gear oil

765C7B2E-EFE2-44CD-B6A1-8A5990B94CAA.webp


5F6D3F1B-3235-4CB3-8BAA-6E41AB3440BC.webp


30187078-250A-4F5A-9B57-2B228893898D.webp
 
High quality products. I’ve used the 75w-90 hypoid GL5+ stuff in my rear diffs and very satisfied. I’ve never seen gear oil so viscous. However, since discovering the Amsoil 75w-90 in bags, I’ve switched to Amsoil for the diffs.
 
I see that the WGen9500 is a Generator, and you say it gets Hot. Have you verified Oil Temperatures with a Thermal Probe after the Generator has been turned off? You may be fine with the 10W-30, I am thinking that where you live a 5W-40 or 15W-40 would be better for your Generator. I did this with my Lawnmower Engine, I took a temp with an infrared gun at the Oil Filter, but the oil temperature with the Thermal Probe was like 30 Degrees Higher. On these Air-cooled Engines I am looking at HTHS Numbers and the film thickness of the oil at 250 Degrees Fahrenheit.

The 10W-30 you are using might be fine, the only way to know is if you can take some Oil Temp Readings.

I love Noack Numbers, but on my Lawnmower engine that is air-cooled like your Generator, I saw 245 Degrees Fahrenheit, I stepped up to a thicker oil with better HTHS Numbers. Again, there is more to an Oil than there Noack Numbers, I just cannot get away from the Numbers.

There is a member here that said something about running Mobil 1 15W-50 in his Generator in Florida and others that used a thinner oil, it could have been 5W-30 or 10W-30, they had issues. Again, it is HTHS and Film Thickness that you only get from a thicker oil when the Weather is Hot, or you are running your Generator for a very long time.
3.5 HTHS with a Noack of 6 in a low hour motor that specs 10W30 -
Redline is known for film thickness …
That gen has a box fan plugged in … The exhaust is directed away and wrapped with header tape …
All I meant was all air cooled motors run pretty hot - thicker oils can also make more heat - Anyway this is a subject beaten to death here …
My older gen’s have Delvac 1 in 5W40 … (3.7 HTHS IIRC)
 
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