Does this make any difference? oil change

[Charlie2015]

I doubt you have anything to clean out. From my experience, Valvoline conventional tends to burn off well before it sludges. Someone else already mentioned the timing chain and guide wear is mainly from running the car low on oil. I see it a lot in Cadillac owners who consistently run the oil life percentage to zero without checking the oil level.

For DIY, Maxlife is a much better oil and deal IMO. For around $2 more you get a synthetic blend and arguably the best high mileage oil available. Why not run that for 3-7k mile OCI especially considering you burn about 1 qt every 5k miles (completely normal and benign consumption)?

 

[BrocLuno]

Originally Posted By: 05LGTLtd
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I think I'd switch to Rotella T6 5W-40 for a few changes. It's a light "40", more like a 35. But the change in chemistry will likely do more to "clean" things that keeping the same chemistry all the time.

Of course you could go big $ and try Pennz UP, but at 118K, I'd be moving in the direction of HDEO anyway

Please provide any data you have to support T6 being a 'light "40"'. IIRC, it's slightly heavier than most of the name brand 0/5w40's such as M1, Edge, Valvoline etc... Not picking a fight here, just want to know how you reached this conclusion.


By comparing hot oil pressures and engine sounds vs Delo400 15W-40 in same engine on previous runs. "Hand" and feel when it comes out warn at change. Both Delo400 and Delvac are thicker hot. They are both 40's that I know well.

In one engine that means 40psi at idle hot (Delo) and 37'ish hot (T6). you are right to compare T6 with other 0W and 5W 40's. It's better than most. But they are all weak compared to straight HDEO. I'll take Rotella T6 as the better viscosity in that group