Dodge Challenger 5.7 oil

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I doubt that they will go back to M1 FS 0W-40 since the PUP SRT 0W-40 is a mid-SAPS oil. My guess is that one of the M1 ESP 0W-40 oils will get approval. Mobil 1 has this habit of making more than one version of the same viscosity in the same motor oil family and then they use an "X" to differentiate them.

Castrol and Ravenol full SAPS oils were both recommended for the SRT MS spec at one point, I think the latter still is. Of course the original SRT 0w-40 was M1 0w-40, so it'll be interesting for sure. Slapping the recommendation or approval on a Euro oil was historically how it was done before the SOPUS product was conjured up.
 
The original post states 5W-20 which he then mentioned using Pennzoil. I was referring to the oils he listed or listed by the others saying 5W-20 . I never go against manufacturers recommendation for oil.

These engines (both the 3.6 and 5.7 Hemi) were originally spec'd 5w/30. They changed to 5w/20 just for MPG's.....it's not like they designed the engine for 5w/20 and you have to use it. 5W/30 is just fine to use and a lot of people do.
 
5W/30 is just fine to use and a lot of people do.
Out of warranty, you can run cooking oil if you want.
Why council folks on running an oil spec not recommended by the engine manufacturer.
I take it you will cover any possible warranty denial?

At our dealership, we had an ecodiesel brought in with a blown engine. FCA was asking for oil change details/proof before any warranty would be approved. A used engine replacement would be in the $12,000 range.
 
Out of warranty, you can run cooking oil if you want.
Why council folks on running an oil spec not recommended by the engine manufacturer.
I take it you will cover any possible warranty denial?

At our dealership, we had an ecodiesel brought in with a blown engine. FCA was asking for oil change details/proof before any warranty would be approved. A used engine replacement would be in the $12,000 range.
Was there sludge in the engine? They only time I’ve ever heard of a manufacturer needing oil change receipts for an engine warranty claim was when one of my coworkers went like 30k miles on her 2012 Jeep Wrangler 3.7 with only one oil change. It was sludged so bad they wouldn’t replace under warranty unless she had receipts. She provided receipts and was able to get it replaced for free.

I’ve know quite a few other people with failed engines under warranty through the years but never needed oil change receipts.

Typically I thought it went like this:

1. customer brings vehicle in with engine complaint.
2. Dealership says we need to check the internals for sludge.
3. If sludged, receipts needed for warranty. If no receipts then customer pays for the time and labor to remove valve cover when checking for sludge.
4. If no sludge, no oil change receipts needed.
 
Out of warranty, you can run cooking oil if you want.
Why council folks on running an oil spec not recommended by the engine manufacturer.
I take it you will cover any possible warranty denial?
That's a lot of worthless pontificating and preaching right there. So how about this: will Crysler/FCA/Stellantis cover the 5.7 HEMI in my RAM 1500 when I blow it while towing 7000 pounds in the Appalachian mountains during the hot summer months because their beancounters deemed that it was worth saving a few bucks and not install an oil cooler in my truck?! I don't think they will. And if by some miracle my engine makes it, I won't like the amount of sludge and cracked on oil residue that your garden variety 5W-20 creates and an overheated engine. Finally, motor oil has to be the cause of engine damage and the manufacturer has to prove it before they can deny warranty coverage. A 5W-30 or 0W-40 will have no ill effects in a 5.7 HEMI or 3.6 Pentastar, and if anything, it will protect those engines better.

At our dealership, we had an ecodiesel brought in with a blown engine. FCA was asking for oil change details/proof before any warranty would be approved. A used engine replacement would be in the $12,000 range.
I remember when the RAM 1500 with the EcoDiesel first came out, it had Pennzoil Euro L 5W-30 in the crankcase. After enough customers grenaded their engines while towing heavy loads, Crysler/FCA/Stellantis (I hope no more name changes for a while) decided that it would be best to switch to Rotella 5W-40, because spun bearings are a PITA, ya know... I sure hope the so-called fuel savings were worth replacing all those engines, never mind the pissed off customers and the time that those folks had to waste waiting in line for warranty work to be completed.
 
I thought the 5.7 HEMI was specced 5W-20 from day one.
Ask someone in Australia what they run in their 5.7 HEMI. Outside the US, possibly North America, common sense, along with ambient temperature and estimated engine loads, still apply when selecting an oil viscosity and oil quality for your engine.
 
That's a lot of worthless pontificating and preaching right there. So how about this: will Crysler/FCA/Stellantis cover the 5.7 HEMI in my RAM 1500 when I blow it while towing 7000 pounds in the Appalachian mountains during the hot summer months because their beancounters deemed that it was worth saving a few bucks and not install an oil cooler in my truck?! I don't think they will. And if by some miracle my engine makes it, I won't like the amount of sludge and cracked on oil residue that your garden variety 5W-20 creates and an overheated engine. Finally, motor oil has to be the cause of engine damage and the manufacturer has to prove it before they can deny warranty coverage. A 5W-30 or 0W-40 will have no ill effects in a 5.7 HEMI or 3.6 Pentastar, and if anything, it will protect those engines better.


I remember when the RAM 1500 with the EcoDiesel first came out, it had Pennzoil Euro L 5W-30 in the crankcase. After enough customers grenaded their engines while towing heavy loads, Crysler/FCA/Stellantis (I hope no more name changes for a while) decided that it would be best to switch to Rotella 5W-40, because spun bearings are a PITA, ya know... I sure hope the so-called fuel savings were worth replacing all those engines, never mind the pissed off customers and the time that those folks had to waste waiting in line for warranty work to be completed.
Speaking of preaching and pontificating...
 
I've got a 5.7 in my AWD 300. I've always used Mobil 1 5W20 Synt, EP Synt or HM Synt (what ever Mobil synthetic is on sale, I usually buy a bunch for a few changes,) and Mopar filters.
Past few years, I've always changed it at ~6000 kms or 6 months unless I'm driving a lot (which I haven't this past year, so only done two changes last year!) Year before last I did much more driving.

I've wondered about using 5W30 and if it would affect much, but not tried it yet as I'm still in warranty (for another week ;) lol)... I've read so much about the lifters that can have issues from the design of the engine and didn't know which oil might be better. :/
 
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Out of warranty, you can run cooking oil if you want.
Why council folks on running an oil spec not recommended by the engine manufacturer.
I take it you will cover any possible warranty denial?

At our dealership, we had an ecodiesel brought in with a blown engine. FCA was asking for oil change details/proof before any warranty would be approved. A used engine replacement would be in the $12,000 range.
Too funny. Dude - the 3.6 and 5.7 motors where built spec'd for 5w/30. They went to 5w/20 just for EPA reasons later on and NOTHING was changed to the motors. Some versions of the 5.7 spec 40wt oil. You act like 5w/30 is gonna blow the motor up. You use whatever cooking oil you like and I'll use mine.....
 
I've got a 5.7 in my AWD 300. I've always used Mobil 1 Synt, EP Synt or HM Synt (what ever Mobil synthetic is on sale, I usually buy a bunch for a few changes,) and Mopar filters.

I've wondered about using 5W30 and if it would affect much, but not tried it yet as I'm still in warranty (for another week ;) lol)...
Well, you're not using MS-6935 approved motor oil anyway, so just based on that, the dealership could deny your warranty claim. The Mopar filter for the 5.7 is a cheaper Purolator design. If you want better flow and good oil pressure, upgrade to a Purolator BOSS PBL24651, or Royal Purple 20-820, or Fram Ultra XG2 (Titanium FS2), all synthetic media filters. They are bigger and allow for more oil to flow, which is key for these HEMIs. The only reason why the filter was shrunk was due to the electronic steering, but it was a dumb move since, with some effort, you can still install the bigger filters. Going up to 5W-30 won't hurt anything, and if you drive in a hot climate, it helps a lot. Of course, if your HEMI has an oil cooler (on the 5.7, it's usually above the oil filter), then you should be fine with 5W-20. Getting the dealer's warranty service has a lot to do with the relationship you have with that dealer, which weighs a lot in their willingness to help you, more than what oil you use. As long as you don't dump Lucas by the bucket load along with 20W-50 and an "orange can" for an oil filter, you should be fine.

In theory, yes. In practice, the average consumer does not have the time or financial resources to fight the OEM once coverage has been denied.
As I said above, it depends a lot on your relationship with the dealership. Warranty can be denied for any reason, and if they want to, they will find one without much effort. The same goes for if they want to help you, they will properly document your claim, including taking pictures of your engine internals, which clearly shows abuse or improper oil changes.

Speaking of preaching and pontificating...
Pontificating and preaching is when someone pushes others to use a certain oil or oil viscosity or do things a certain way. Like telling people to use "what the manufacturer recommends" or "MDS will not work correctly if you don't use 5W-20 MS-6935 approved motor oil." Both of these statements are bollocks. It's called a recommendation for a reason. It's not an automatic transmission. An internal combustion engine is subjected to different loads. People run whatever gasoline they can afford or get in these engines, so motor oil is also subject to change based on ambient temperatures and engine loads. I'm just trying to tell others that they have options and use their best judgment when deciding what lubricants to use. Everyone has a different use case and application. As to MDS, for the solenoids to operate properly, they need clean oil, and for the lifters to disengage, they need good oil pressure. Any oil like 0W-20, 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 can provide these, heck, even 15W-40 under the right circumstances. Going thicker could damage the screens on the solenoids.

Last month I met a guy who was driving a pristine looking 2015 Dodge Charger R/T. It was stock, his daily driver. The engine sounded real good. I asked him what oil he was running in it, and he said Castrol EDGE 5W-40 with the bigger Mopar filter. I asked him how many miles, and he said 140K and some change, and he does 5~6000 miles OCIs. He said he wants to get at least another 5 years out of it, and he drives a lot.

Everyone who can't afford a new car every two to three years will do their absolute best to protect their investment and get the most out of it. Far be it from me to tell others what to do. That doesn't mean that I can't share my opinion and do my best to help others.
 
Thxs for the info Yogi. Hard to find decent filters up here. I usually buy a handful at a time from RockAuto. Still have a couple Mopars left. Will look around for the bigger ones. How about the Wix XPs?
 
If the engine has known issues that 'possibly' could be addressed with more cst, then go for it.

I would use ANY full synthetic 5w20 in both of those vehicles that the OP stated.
I would use ANY full synthetic media filter for both of those vehicles. WixXp/NapaPlatinum, Royalpurple, Amsoil, Fram UltraTitanium, Purolator Boss... are the ones and no preference at all.

If there are any known failure parts blamed on everything but 5w20, I would simply step both vehicles up to a synthetic 5w30. Other variables are warm climates, towing, and heavy right foot syndrome... that I'd prefer a little more cst.

Regardless of the oil grade, I would pay attention to 'interval'. Just see too many blindly following OLM's, textbook intervals....without looking at their driving style or weather, which all seems to cause oil consumption, sludge/varnish, worn out valvetrain, clogged screens, failed solenoids, ticking/rattling.....

And, keep the oil level full by topping off as needed and often.

Magnetic drainplugs, filtermags... and a filter cut open tool should be considered too.
 
Thxs for the info Yogi. Hard to find decent filters up here. I usually buy a handful at a time from RockAuto. Still have a couple Mopars left. Will look around for the bigger ones. How about the Wix XPs?

Wut? No it isn't, both Canadian Tire and Partsource carry the FRAM Ultra, you can also just buy them on Amazon, which I do when they go on sale.
 
Well, you're not using MS-6935 approved motor oil anyway, so just based on that, the dealership could deny your warranty claim.

The verbiage in my manuals that have noted that spec "recommend" it, the requirement is that it is API approved.

The Mobil oil selector now also recommends their oils for FCA products again :cool:

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The verbiage in my manuals that have noted that spec "recommend" it, the requirement is that it is API approved.

The Mobil oil selector now also recommends their oils for FCA products again :cool:

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Holy smokes, you're absolutely right. I just put in the info for my 2016 RAM 1500 and I got the same list. Though I wonder if I should go back to 5W-20 or just stick to M1 FS 0W-40. It's working great for me, the motor runs smoothly with it. I like Mobil, Castrol, and Amsoil products. What do you think?

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Just tried a bunch of options in the Mobil 1 oil configurator. As of right now Mobil 1 only recommends oils for 3.6L Pentastar and 5.7 HEMI motors. Anything equipped with the 6.4L, Mobil 1 doesn't have an oil for it, yet. Still, it's progress.

This goes only to show how much politics is involved with these motor oil recommendations and so-called Crysler approvals, which are bollocks of course. Now, if they had some actual engine tests for these approvals, then that would be a different story. Copying API SN/SN Plus, SP, and ILSAC specs and renaming them MS-6395 and MS-12633 is plain stupid.
 
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Wut? No it isn't, both Canadian Tire and Partsource carry the FRAM Ultra, you can also just buy them on Amazon, which I do when they go on sale.
I hate Amazon with a passion, I've gotten so much fake stuff from there its not funny, and that's still buying mainly only sold n shipped by Amazon products too! :poop:

I'll check out CT and others, thanks :)
 
I hate Amazon with a passion, I've gotten so much fake stuff from there its not funny, and that's still buying mainly only sold n shipped by Amazon products too! :poop:

I'll check out CT and others, thanks :)

No problem. I expect the odds of getting fake FRAM Ultra's is probably pretty low, but yeah, CT has them on sale sometimes too, so that's good enough.
 
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