Do you always, usually, or rarely torque bolts to spec?

[KrisZ]

I go by feel. I stop when the resistance reduces just a touch, that’s how I know the torque is just perfect

 

[wings&wheels]

I go by feel. I stop when the resistance reduces just a touch, that’s how I know the torque is just perfect

Torque to yield on all fasteners, seems simple and safe. I like it

 

[KrisZ]

Torque to yield on all fasteners, seems simple and safe. I like it

I call it “torque until something yields”

 

[michaelluscher]

If they're listed then yes. No reason not to.

Each of your examples (not knowing the specific car) would seem to involve thin metal and/or plastic. Most people (even myself) overtorque items when going "by feel."

Keep in mind that I'm an aviation mechanic. Torque wrenches are a part of my life, they're in my ratchet drawer, and they get calibrated annually.

It's very easy to overtorque something. Good example is spark plugs. NGK listed 14-20ft-lbs for thr plugs I just installed. I'm will to be most people far exceed that "because it feels right."

@RooflessVW getting ready in the morning



I agree in principle, a spec is there for a reason
However, I've felt uncomfortable applying ~18lb.f on a spark plug, it sometimes feels like too much

Next year I think I'll invest in a good torque wrench, the only good one I have is the big 1/2 Matco that needs sent for calibration

 

[The Critic]

Torque to yield on all fasteners, seems simple and safe. I like it

If you re-use TTY fasteners, you gotta reinstall them using the ugga-dugga method; the torque specs are no longer valid.

 

[Jeffrey Behr]

Wheel nuts/screws, always; others, virtually never.

 

[mb2720807]

You did a survey in Germany?

Here's a German automotive technician. He uses a impact wrench only to loosen nuts and bolts. He threads them back on with a ratchet and then finally torques to spec with a torque wrench.

 

[Selmorides]

Engine assembly and lug nuts. Tempest has shank style lug nuts and they get torqued several times after I drive the car until they no longer move.

 

[Aichiguy]

Rarely, save for lug nuts. I've twisted a few off and don't like replacing them.

 

[4wd]

Here's a German automotive technician. He uses a impact wrench only to loosen nuts and bolts. He threads them back on with a ratchet and then finally torques to spec with a torque wrench.

Big survey! Just go back to clicking your anger button. Going on ignore.

 

[4wd]

Big survey! Just go back to clicking your anger button. Going on ignore.

So many angry boys - or the same one …

 

[Wylie6G72]

Lug nuts and transmission pan bolts are the only things I can think of off the top of my head.

 

[Sumboodie]

On more critical things, or things needing uniform clamping, like a transmission valve body, heads, etc.
Or stuff that is really friggin tight that I can't judge it easily. Like I have needed a 1000 ft/lb torque wrench on a few things.

 

[ctechbob]

Lug nuts, and spark plugs (Usually).

But then I don't do any internal engine work. If I did, I would torque or follow the manuf recommendation. Closest I've ever gotten is pulling the intake off my J-Series cars and adjusting their valves (Didn't torque) and resealing the oil pump area on the same engines. (didn't torque), although I am careful to use a smaller 1/4" wrench on a lot of the smaller bolts since I have pretty high hand/arm strength and know I'm perfectly capable of ripping every bolt out of the car.

I think I did torque the pan bolts on the Ranger's 10R80 too, although now I can't remember if I did or not. Pretty sure I did with my 1/4" torque wrench.

I've never torqued brake jobs on my cars though and I'm probably halfway through double digits on those. Used to go through lots of pads.