I can probably count on 5 fingers the things I torque to spec: transmission pans, diff covers, control arms with bushings under load, wheel lugs, SOMETIMES ball joint castle nuts but most stuff I take the spec into consideration and give my best guess. Example most axle nuts have high torque requirements like 150+ ft lbs or more. In those cases I just tighten the heck out of it. If it's something midrange like a control arm castle nut spec'd at 70ft lbs I'll make it tight but not go crazy. I'm more likely to torque to spec on low tq spec'd bolts especially if fluid is involved (like the diff covers, transmission pans, mechanical water pumps etc).
Do you always, usually, or rarely torque bolts to spec?
- Thread starter ZZman
- Start date
I'll torque head bolts, internal engine bolts, etc. but my torque wrench is pretty much in mint condition LOL.
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2022
- Messages
- 26
I try to torque most things, as a home gamer/hobbyist like most on here, I'm not trying to beat the clock and I have the tools so why wouldn't I? Unless you're trying to beat flag time, and even then I question how much time you're actually saving, I view not torquing to spec as pure laziness.
Germans use torque wrenches. Every time. Only Americans use "guud-n-tite".
Axle nuts, lug nuts, important suspension bolts(not swaybar links).
I've done the inch/lb, ft/lb mix by turning off my brain while I was using a torque wrench. Also snapped a strut pinch bolt while following a torque spec, that was wrong in the manual... As I was turning it, I felt it was too much, but its "the spec" so it must be right... wrong!
The TTY ones I follow, but fortunately I don't need to do that often.
I tried installing plugs once by "the instructions", and they came loose... It felt loose, but that's what it says on the NGK box, so who am I to question them? Maybe I've been overtightening them for years?! Nope.
I did dozen's of plug swaps on my old snowmobile when I was a teen, and never striped a head or lost a plug... With crush washers, its easy to feel when they are crushed, and then do a 1 finger pull on the ratchet or wrench, to get the torque to hold, and not to strip.
I do have a look at how many threads are in the head on new to me motors, but so far they all have been plenty to not worry about stripping them.
I've done the inch/lb, ft/lb mix by turning off my brain while I was using a torque wrench. Also snapped a strut pinch bolt while following a torque spec, that was wrong in the manual... As I was turning it, I felt it was too much, but its "the spec" so it must be right... wrong!
The TTY ones I follow, but fortunately I don't need to do that often.
I tried installing plugs once by "the instructions", and they came loose... It felt loose, but that's what it says on the NGK box, so who am I to question them? Maybe I've been overtightening them for years?! Nope.
I did dozen's of plug swaps on my old snowmobile when I was a teen, and never striped a head or lost a plug... With crush washers, its easy to feel when they are crushed, and then do a 1 finger pull on the ratchet or wrench, to get the torque to hold, and not to strip.
I do have a look at how many threads are in the head on new to me motors, but so far they all have been plenty to not worry about stripping them.
After HF's sidewalk sale a couple of months ago, when I bought digital 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches, I look for any excuse to use them. So what that I already had both sizes in click-style. They never provided the satisfying vibration you get from the digital ones when you're on the right spot spec.
Under 30 years old me (broke as a joke Army Soldier and sole breadwinner): never
Over 30 years old me(none of the above): every time.
Always
I always use a torque wrench with anything steel into alloy with the potential to ruin your day such as cylinder head bolts, sump plugs or spark plugs. I may reduce a specified torque a touch if I think it's unnecessarily high which may seem like I'm 2nd guessing the manufacturer but I've known several examples of torque specs getting lost in the translation for German vehicles. I think it's always important to ask your self; does that torque spec sound sensible given the materials and size of thread. There have been examples where a torque spec doesn't exist at all such as Ate brake caliper half assembly bolts because the manufacturer didn't want you to split the caliper in n the first place so they didn't provide a figure. Then you have to use some judgment based on thread size and material to decide on a torque figure because it's steel into alloy again. It's possible to check such a judgment by calculating or rather estimating the clamping force that a given torque will apply.
Otherwise I only use a torque wrench on safety critical items such as brakes and suspension.
Otherwise I only use a torque wrench on safety critical items such as brakes and suspension.
4wd
$50 site donor 2026
answer honestly - so you can be judged by a stranger
4wd
$50 site donor 2026
You did a survey in Germany?
agreed. everything does not need a spec. obviously special stuff need to be tightened to a spec.....not everything
If you need a spec for a coolant bottle, you are dumb and should not be working on a vehicle
torque applied as opposed to spec can get quite skewed though, such as when the is lube involved or if you chased the threads or not......so there is that.
- Joined
- May 16, 2022
- Messages
- 851
I always use a Torque wrench on everything thing that has a torque spec except perhaps a oil drain in something old.
I use what I think is a little common sense.
Steel fastener into alloy? Yes, avoids the it was real hard to turn and then suddenly got easy disaster
Assemblies involving gasket crush where absolute torque as well as evenness of clamping force matter? Yes, helps ensure no leaks or gasket failures
Oil drain plugs? Uh, no
Steel fastener into alloy? Yes, avoids the it was real hard to turn and then suddenly got easy disaster
Assemblies involving gasket crush where absolute torque as well as evenness of clamping force matter? Yes, helps ensure no leaks or gasket failures
Oil drain plugs? Uh, no
on ones that use a crushwasher, i say yes, rubber washer, snugly
- Joined
- May 16, 2022
- Messages
- 851
My buddy and I always got a good laugh wondering that we must have not been to ONLY folks to own a GM 3800 V6 that was missing the long water pump bolt... The dread when one hears that "PLINK" sound when tightening ( and the feeling that gives, If you know you know ) that 3rd extra long aluminum water pump bolt...
Thats the day I leaned (2) things...
1. I needed a Torque wrench, I have (2) now.
2. That GM water pump would work just fine minus that long bolt!
