Do Lifetime Warranties On Auto Parts Really Make Sense?

[TiGeo]

FCP Euro. $2600 in refunds for lifetime replacement and counting!

 

[97prizm]

What would an average 7 to 10 year old car need to stay mobile for a lifetime? At least over the average 'driving' lifetime for people like us?

About 10 batteries, 4 or 5 catalytic converters, 3 transmissions, 3 or 4 engines, maybe 50 or so miscellaneous parts ranging from sensors and suspension components to modules that are stockpiled in a backroom somewhere. Throw in a frame that would probably give out if it wasn't located in a rust-free climate with smooth roads, and, well, a brutally terminal conclusion becomes all too obvious.

Cars can't last like people do. If they could, most owners would find a way to mess them up anyhow.

That's why I'm struggling with the value of lifetime parts. I realize that for 98% of the people out there, a lifetime warranty, even a limited one, is just a marketing ploy designed to make people believe that it's a quality part. That vehicle will almost always be owned for years instead of decades. So the risk of offering it for a lifetime isn't all that much.

On the other hand how often do you ever have to replace the same part more than twice? Oil, filters, brakes, batteries, fluids, and certain belts will definitely make what amounts to a short list. But all those parts don't add up to much when you're looking strictly at the cost of the part. We're talking maybe around $700 to $900 on most vehicles over a 15 year span.

So what's the real value of a lifetime part beyond the 'feel good' marketing? Isn't it smarter to just buy an overengineered part? Such as a radiator with an inch thickness vs. the cheap Ebay 5/8 inch plastic version? Or an alternator that is professionally rebuilt vs. the limited lifetime one you get from the auto parts store?

I get how 'lifetime' works in the rarified European car owner world that is FCP Euro. But most people aren't auto enthusiasts. They're frugalists at best, abusers and neglecters at the very worst.

So what's the real value of a lifetime part beyond the 'feel good' marketing?

I'd hope not 4 or 5 catalytic converters. My geo went 246,000 on the original cat.

 

[John105]

Of course it does!

Has anyone actually used Midas? I have. Say an exhaust is $700 the first time. The lifetime part is $180. The labor, resonators, clamps, etc are $520, and that is paid each time one gets the free muffler. That’s not free

 

[ecotourist]

So what's the real value of a lifetime part beyond the 'feel good' marketing?

I've collected on a couple of lifetime warranties. Battery for my '81 Celica. Rear exhaust unit (2 mufflers with pipes) for my '86 Volvo.

I tend to buy better parts which sometimes come with a lifetime warranty.

I keep my cars 15 - 20 years so a second replacement does occasionally come up.

 

[LowMilesLesabre]

I’m neutral to FCP and have purchased a fair amount of 335i parts from them. When the BMW dealer ripped out my brake sensor wire doing a 4 wheel alignment, it was covered by FCP under the lifetime warranty (long story dealer denied until BBB dropped from A+ to C-). But “insurance” is normally factored in to the price. Or, it’s used to get the sale. But again, generally a lifetime warranty is not that valuable…again times have changed I’ve bought 2 factory extended warranties on cars and both were losing propositions. But products are generally becoming more disposable so who knows. Maybe Doug D’s way is the new one.

@John105 I am curious about your experience with the factory certified extended warranties that you had purchased on two vehicles. When you mention that they were “losing propositions“, was this due to the fact that you didn’t end up using them or needing them versus the price you paid for the warranties or was it because getting the manufacturer to honour the warranty was a PITA?

 

[John105]

@John105 I am curious about your experience with the factory certified extended warranties that you had purchased on two vehicles. When you mention that they were “losing propositions“, was this due to the fact that you didn’t end up using them or needing them versus the price you paid for the warranties or was it because getting the manufacturer to honour the warranty was a PITA?

A couple of things, I bought the one from BMW and GM/Ally. I think it was GMPP but forget—GM had two factory authorized and I got the Ally one.

The good news is the prices are negotiable online. They aren’t in person.

To give you an idea, I got a BMW 7/100. Extra year. There were 6/70, 6/100 (most common), 7/70. The 7/100 had a list price of $3200. I got it for $2800. I could not lose. Twin turbo N54 BMW. I had no claims. Am I embarrassed? Yes. But in life I like to come clean not lie to make myself appear to be a genius. The car is reliable.

On the 2011 Enclave, I paid $1800 and GM was weird. They added 50k to current odometer. I think it was 4 years because the water pump failed out of extended warranty.

First of all both had deductibles—BMW $50, GM $100.

The GM is below average reliability and I had multiple claims. Retail price it added up to about $2500. But my buddy said get real, you DIY. You’re not paying $800 for an alternator, but you’re using that number to justify the extended warranty break even.

I would say yes there is a peace of mind factor. The blend actuators broke and that’s over $600 and a frustrating diy so yeah I was worry free when it happened.

Look at the water pump, broke out of warranty, again I think $800 job. I did it myself with genuine GM parts (because the pump was supposedly revised and it came with the factory tty bolts which are $6 each). Out the door $140 at the time. The warranty would have cost me $106. Not that much difference and I learned the job. Lost about 6 hours of my Labor Day weekend as I took my time.

I’ll come clean again. If the 2025 Tahoe is $1800 for an extra 4/50 I’d probably just pay it. Btw the GM factory extended covers struts but not shocks. We got 2 of those and they do only one side at a time. Who ever replaces stuff like that not in a pair????

Btw my 335i was $2800 out the door for the warranty, 100% loss. At the time? The same warranty for a M3 was $7200. I can’t imagine paying that or negotiating down to $6xxx and getting nothing back. It’s like betting against oneself hoping for a failure.

These are my musings ymmv….