I'll type out the steps of what I do, so perhaps this will be of some help:
1.) Gather the necessary supplies for your oil change. This includes your oil (a name brand SN-rated oil is all you really need), an oil filter, socket wrench, shop towels, funnel, oil drain pan, wheel chocks, drain plug crush washer (if applicable), ramps, and an oil filter wrench (if necessary).
2.) Drive car up onto ramps, being careful not to overshoot the landing and drive over them and damage your vehicle. Just take it slow and try not to gun it up the ramps. Take your time and if you start to roll back, just hit the brakes and put the car into neutral (or reverse) and roll back down and try again. Once you get good enough at controlling the throttle and managing the inclined ramps, you shouldn't have to do this very often, if at all. Set the parking brake on the vehicle and chock the back wheels.
3.) Open the hood and remove oil filler cap and/or dipstick to allow the oil to drain easier.
4.) Remove oil pan drain plug and allow used oil to flow into your drain pan and drain until it's a slow drip.
5.) Replace the crush washer on the drain plug if applicable. I also take this time to fill out a new window cling sticker and my maintenance log. As long as you have some sort of record of the date/miles of the oil change, you should be fine.
6.) Wipe down the area around the drain plug so that the plug has a clean surface when you put it back on. Replace oil drain plug back into the vehicle and tighten it by hand until it will not turn anymore without excessive force. Be careful not to cross-thread it when putting it back on.
7.) Remove old oil filter. If a gorilla mechanic put it on last, it may be on there tight enough to warrant the use of an oil filter wrench. Make sure that the old rubber gasket from the old filter is not stuck to the engine block. Wipe down the mating surface where the oil filter's gasket connects with your engine block and screw on the new oil filter after wiping some fresh oil on the rubber gasket of the new oil filter. Tighten this the same way you did with the drain plug, until it won't turn anymore without excessive force. Also, you may want to wipe down the engine block as old oil will likely be all over it and will leave old oil drips on your garage floor for a few days if you don't do this.
8.) After the drain plug is back on the engine and the new oil filter is screwed onto the block, refill the engine with the required amount of oil as outlined in your owner's manual. Be sure to use the capacity with oil filter change as most manuals will tell you the capacity with a filter change and without. Put the oil filler cap back on and put the dipstick back into the tube.
9.) Start the engine and make sure that the low oil pressure light goes off after a few seconds and check under the hood and under the vehicle for any leaks.
10.) Remove wheel chocks and release the parking brake and back the car down off the ramps. Shut down the engine and wait a few minutes and check the oil level on the dipstick. Usually, if you put on what the owner's manual says, it'll be right at the full mark or just a hair over. As long as it's between the low and full marks or just a hair over, I call it good. I prefer it to be as close to the full mark as possible, though, in case the vehicle consumes or leaks some oil.
Someone please correct me if I missed something as I'm half-awake right now.