DIY first time oil change toyota camry

Status
Not open for further replies.
I took a Champ filter off of the Cavalier not to long ago. All I remember is it looked like a cheap house brand filter. And that's what I thought it was. It looked more like an AC/Delco than a Fram.

A bad filter is just that. For a short OCI, probably nothing. Now if it is bad enough that the media tears or the bypass fails you will get un-filtered oil in your engine. There isn't an oil I am aware of that I know of that will be much help if that happens. My personal experience has been that Motocraft and AC/Delco oil filters at least appear to keep the oil looking cleaner longer. Now I suppose that doesn't really mean that much scientifically, But it is enough for me to keep using them. Especially being almost the same price. Now if i was going to use a full synthetic and go for a longer OCI, I would also consider going with a premium filter, or maybe replacing my filter half way through the interval and top off the oil.

I mention Motocraft and AC/Delco only because those are the ones I have experience with. Because of their low Price, I have not bothered to try other filters. I have had Napa oil filters on the car from a local shop and they seemed to be good filters as well. The filter they used on my Focus was a heavy duty though, and that is bigger than the Motocraft.
 
Last edited:
oh, i see
i'm really leaning towards a purolator clasic now
as they're only 3.27 at walmart and 3.29 at meijer

and meijer has the pureones for 2 dollars more at around 5 dollars and some odd cents (can't remember) whereas walmart doesn't have the pureone for some reason
 
alkso, i heard bad stories about pennzoil yellow bottle causing sludge
but browsing around, it seems like PYB helps clean sludge and is one of the best cleaning oils out there, is that true?

will a new dipstick give me more accurate readings?
 
are wix filters good? i'm considering buying the pennzoil platinum special oil change with wix filter for 34.99 with a 10 dollar mail in rebate
 
Probably not on the dipstick. I am sure its fine.
I heard Pennzoil caused wax build up in the past. But that was years ago. Pennzoil is all one of my neighbors will use in his cars. I haven't used it myself because it hasn't been on sale much around here. I did consider it on my last oil change, but then I saw Valvoline Maxlife synthetic blend was on sale for the same price as most of the conventional oils, I had heard good things about it and I never had trouble with Valvoline. I will say the Maxlife has removed all of the varnish from the dipstick and has cleaned up some of the varnish I could see under the oil cap. I have not had to add any oil since I have changed it and it feels like it runs a little better. I also started great in sub-zero temps. The only thing I don't care for is the valve train seems a bit louder. But I also believe the oil is working and doing its job and it's possible the increase in noise has more to do with the last oil being thicker. The last oil made it really hard to start in the cold.

I have always used name brand oils in the past with good results. Mostly Havoline and occasionally Valvoline, because they had oil change shops by the house where I grew up, and the shop by me now uses Havoline also. I have been hard on every car I have ever owned. Most I drove into the ground. Since they were cheap beaters I never really took care of them either except I always changed the oil. Not always on time but I got to it eventually. And of all the cars I have had, I have only had 1 engine failure. And that was more likely from abuse than oil.
The Cavalier has cheaper oil in it, and that seems to be doing just as good as all of the other cars.
 
Last edited:
Toyota dealers offer good price time to time on oil change & tire rotations. That is the best option for you imo.
And when you go there ask them to change plugs, PCV and timing belt if needed.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
are wix filters good?


In my experience, Yes. Quality filter media, good price, use regularly here.
 
if i add seafoam to my crankcase, do i have to change the oil shortly thereafter, or can i leave it in there andh ave it clean for say 2000 miles, then change my oil, or does the seafoam screw over my oil?
 
I've heard, the downside to HM oil is that it can lead to worse oil efficiency. The thing is, I already poured seafoam.

This last oil change, I did at the tire place, they overfilled, and I got all the right tools (jack and jack stands) the wrenches, so I drained some out myself, but today, at the parking lot, I noticed a huge oil stain and my oil level was only slightly above the "low" mark on the dipstick, meaning that liquid was my oil, and I later jakced the car up to discover that my oil drain plug was loose (not completely, but it was loose enough to allow some oil to slowly seep out. I used my hand, originally to tighten the plug, but this time, I took out my socket wrench and used a tool to tighten it, but I worry I overtightened it, as was the case with the taurus (the quick lube place overteightened it)
so now i learned, don't tighten it by your hand, but how do you know what's "over tight?"

also, there was a little oil leaking from my filter, which means my oil filter wasn't on tight enough. I used the oil filter cap wrench to tighten it, but they said to use your hand to tighten it. was my oil filter cap aslo not tight enough?
 
Hand tight on the filter should be enough. I lube up the gasket and tighten it down about a quarter turn after the filter first touches the block.

The right answer for your drain plug is to use a torque wrench. If you're just learning, you can get an inexpensive beam type torque wrench to torque it down. After a few oil changes, you'll know by feel, or close enough.

You should technically be replacing the crush washer every change as well. My dad has never replaced the washer and has no issues. I replace it every few changes.

Just curious, what type of engineer are you?
 
You worry a lot, it seems.

You claim to be from Detroit Metro area,right? If so you got bigger things to worry about than oil changes and what kind of jack oil to use in your jack.
 
Last edited:
Trolling along.....
coffee2.gif


One time, at band camp........................
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: engineer20
the toyota filters came with crush washers
how do i install the crush washers and where do i in stall them?


They go on the muffler belt, found right before the front bumper, that's why its called a "crush" washer. Protects one in case of a rear ender. Best to use 2, in the Detroit area.
 
Last edited:
Engineer20, have you heard of Google? It's a wonderful tool and can keep a body entertained for hours trying to search for answers to life's most pressing questions.

Say, for instance, How To Install an Oil Drain Plug Crush Washer...Google
 
With new crush washer, turn the wrench until the washer is just snug under the drain bolt. At that point upon further tightening, you will feel the soft crush washer 'give' as it is squeezed between the bolt and the pan. You will want to apply tightening force slowly and evenly at this point, as soon as the 'give' stops, stop applying any force.

As stated, a cheap torque wrench is the best insurance until you get the feel for it. (I still use a torque wrench on cars with alloy oil pans.)

(I can't believe I'm responding to this thread.)
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

mbres2000
2016 Mustang GT oil recommendation
Replies
10
Views
389
ZeeOSix
M
Messiest oil change... ever?
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
subzerospeed
A
doing oil change without filter change but sending for UOA to check on filter?
Replies
9
Views
728
DGXR
N
First oil change 2024 CX-5
2
Replies
29
Views
2K
dwendt44
R
Time for first oil change?
2
Replies
21
Views
4K
Nesterenko
Back
Top