DIY first time oil change toyota camry

Status
Not open for further replies.
Not a troll, just new to this. Now i know about the crush washer and where to put it but the dealer gave it to me with the filter so i thought it went under the filter until bitog told me otherwise and now i know, under the oil drain bolt.
 
A lot of engineers have no clue what-so-ever about car and maintenance. Many of them have no interest in learning how to keep their car(s) running properly.

I know a very smart engineer, he didn't know that he needed to change oil in his car once in a while. The first oil change was more than 20k miles after he bought a brand new Camaro, and only after I told him to do so.
 
Originally Posted By: BISCUT
Trolling along.....
coffee2.gif



Yes, and if there's any doubt, go look at his thread about store brand oil. He asks about one brand, then another, then another, before anyone responds to the previous question. Not only store brands, but name brands, too. A legitimate poster may ask about 2 or 3 brands that they are considering, but there's no way this guy is seriously considering 30 brands of oil for his car. He's just sittin' down in Mama's basement, having fun with people on forums.
 
Now how do you open the oil bottle?

Do you hold the bottle and twist the cap?

Or do you hold the cap and twist the bottle?
 
i'm not trolling,
i suddenly gained an interest in cars/diy stuff
and I was just curious. instead of starting new threads, why not post all my ideas on one thread, together? or is that not good and isn't courteous forum behavior, and should I start a new thread every time?
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
i'm not trolling,
i suddenly gained an interest in cars/diy stuff
and I was just curious. instead of starting new threads, why not post all my ideas on one thread, together? or is that not good and isn't courteous forum behavior, and should I start a new thread every time?


Narrow it down to a couple brands of SN-rated oil and pick one that is readily available in your area at a decent price, and stick with it. Use a Wix/NAPA Gold filter. Easy. Done.
 
You guys know basic vehicle maintenance and assume that anyone should have similar knowledge. But you don't know that many drivers have no clue about maintenance, they only know how to fill gas tank and may be fill air into the tire(s), someone just signed up few days ago to learn what he can do for his car and you guys jump on him like he's a spy working for KGB.

Take it easy on a newbie who needs all the helps we can give him.
 
I like GTX. Here`s my plan for you to do. Go to Walmart. Grab a jug of GTX and a Fram Tough Guard filter. Then head to Autozone (unless Walmart sells them) and buy a pair of Rhino Ramps to drive your car upon to do your oil change. While you`re changing your oil,take this time to inspect everything underneath your car (that`s what I always do).
 
Theres plenty of information here which could've answered most or all of his questions had he spent some time using the search function let alone Google,YouTube or consumer reivews. Questions like pennzoil and wax buildup is way old news like 20+ years. Question regarding jacks and oil....even the teenager behind the counter at Autozone can answer that. It's a carmy it's nearly bulletproof! Follow the OM and choice a decent filter.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
i'm not trolling,
i suddenly gained an interest in cars/diy stuff
and I was just curious. instead of starting new threads, why not post all my ideas on one thread, together? or is that not good and isn't courteous forum behavior, and should I start a new thread every time?
likeci mentionned ,as long as in the api logo (not outside but in the api logo)it say SN ,ENERGY CONSERVING your set.of you want better .the likely culprit will be a group 4 oil.unless mobil changed their extended performance oil that oil is a group 4 sn and energy conserving .
 
You're welcome.

You should already learn that there are some good posts from posters who want to help you with whatever question you may have, and there are some posters who think they know everything and expect every driver should know all the basic of vehicle maintenance like they do, just ignore those posts and read and reread the posts that you think are helpful.

I'm here to learn and to contribute what I can, sometimes I posted wrong/bad idea too. That's life, the longer I live the more I learn.

Not everybody agrees with me and I don't agree with some posters either, that why we're here to discuss and to learn. Sometimes we have agree to disagree on some subjects.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
i'm not trolling,
i suddenly gained an interest in cars/diy stuff
and I was just curious. instead of starting new threads, why not post all my ideas on one thread, together? or is that not good and isn't courteous forum behavior, and should I start a new thread every time?


Good forum behavior generally involves googling a LOT before a 5000 word stream of conciousness set of threads.

It is not normal.

I understand the concept of inundation for new fields of interest, but don't be surprised at not everyone being patient with a deluge of questions, many of which are so simple as to be cringe-worthy. Google is your friend.

While we don't have to participate, everyone likes to gather around a train wreck...
 
Is anyone able to translate for me?

Originally Posted By: yvon_la
likeci mentionned ,as long as in the api logo (not outside but in the api logo)it say SN ,ENERGY CONSERVING your set.of you want better .the likely culprit will be a group 4 oil.unless mobil changed their extended performance oil that oil is a group 4 sn and energy conserving .
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Oh my God.

Originally Posted By: BISCUT
......One time, at band camp........................

crackmeup2.gif
Can't help myself, this thread is hilarious. Very entertaining.

Carry on.
 
Api logo,in there look for the mention sn & energy conserving,group 4 oil are supposedly the best ,mobil1 extended performance meet all those (unless they changed recently)
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Is anyone able to translate for me?

Originally Posted By: yvon_la
likeci mentionned ,as long as in the api logo (not outside but in the api logo)it say SN ,ENERGY CONSERVING your set.of you want better .the likely culprit will be a group 4 oil.unless mobil changed their extended performance oil that oil is a group 4 sn and energy conserving .


How's this...

"Like I mentioned, as long as it has the API logo and says SN/energy conserving, you're set. If you want better, the choice would be Group 4 oil. Unless Mobil changed its Extended Performance oil, that oil is Group 4 SN and energy conserving."
_____________________

Originally Posted By: Mr_Incredible


Good forum behavior generally involves googling a LOT before a 5000 word stream of conciousness set of threads.

It is not normal.

I understand the concept of inundation for new fields of interest, but don't be surprised at not everyone being patient with a deluge of questions, many of which are so simple as to be cringe-worthy. Google is your friend.

While we don't have to participate, everyone likes to gather around a train wreck...



Engineer20 said he changes oil every 3k-5k miles...no mention was made of extending OCIs past 5k or of driving conditions that might be considered "severe"...

As such, ANY NAME BRAND SN OIL, conventional or synthetic or blend, and ANY NAME BRAND Filter, will satisfy the needs of a Toyota Camry. Nor is the Camry's I4 a high performance engine that would require specialty oil/filters. Of course, that doesn't stop BiTOG members from recommending such...

Despite four pages of posts on the Toyota owners' forum where many members patiently tried to answer with definitive clarity this and other issues raised by Engineer20, with much the same results as here, the same questions keep being asked. Asking questions is just fine, so long as the answers are thoughtfully considered before throwing out additional theoretical criteria (often contradictory, such as asking about premium and then basic conventional oils, or about the value of the cheapest oil filters) that have no bearing on his car's needs. Respectfully, Engineer20 would do better to consider that.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Engineer20 said he changes oil every 3k-5k miles...no mention was made of extending OCIs past 5k or of driving conditions that might be considered "severe"...

Exactly. There is going to be no one oil (or filter for that matter) that, under such conditions, is going to stand head and shoulders above everything else out there.
 
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Is anyone able to translate for me?

Originally Posted By: yvon_la
likeci mentionned ,as long as in the api logo (not outside but in the api logo)it say SN ,ENERGY CONSERVING your set.of you want better .the likely culprit will be a group 4 oil.unless mobil changed their extended performance oil that oil is a group 4 sn and energy conserving .


How's this...

"Like I mentioned, as long as it has the API logo and says SN/energy conserving, you're set. If you want better, the choice would be Group 4 oil. Unless Mobil changed its Extended Performance oil, that oil is Group 4 SN and energy conserving."
_____________________

Originally Posted By: Mr_Incredible


Good forum behavior generally involves googling a LOT before a 5000 word stream of conciousness set of threads.

It is not normal.

I understand the concept of inundation for new fields of interest, but don't be surprised at not everyone being patient with a deluge of questions, many of which are so simple as to be cringe-worthy. Google is your friend.

While we don't have to participate, everyone likes to gather around a train wreck...



As such, ANY NAME BRAND SN OIL, conventional or synthetic or blend, and ANY NAME BRAND Filter, will satisfy the needs of a Toyota Camry. Nor is the Camry's I4 a high performance engine that would require specialty oil/filters. Of course, that doesn't stop BiTOG members from recommending such...


EXACTLY. It's a Camry! Anything will do, the only reason I run PU in mine is because I got it 6 months ago on clearance at AutoZone for $1 per quart and got a bunch of it. Otherwise I'd be running whatever.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top