Discount tire lift question

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NH
That is how I've taken to lifting my cars lately. My 1.5T jack has a large rubber pad on it, so it is not the same point load as a bottle jack; then I usually a stack of 2x10's to again get a large area of contact. Mind you I am using a channel that looks like a frame rail, right where a frame would have been. It looks like it was meant to have lots of strength. I gave up trying to find both a good jacking location and a spot to put jack stands and resorted to this. My sample size is too small to be of much note, but after doing it several times and not seeing any deformation, I'm not likely to stop any time soon. The pinch weld looks kinda puny by comparison, and I've seen those get chewed up over time, plus I'd have to go get a trolley jack to fit properly (since the factory jack is a pain), and then I'd still need a spot for jack stands. shrug https://www.autozone.com/repairguid...JACKING/Lift-Points/_/P-0900c152800c2a33 Something like this. [Linked Image]
 

Pew

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1,370
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Illinois
Originally Posted by NissanMaxima
Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
The QuickJack is basically a home-use DIY version of the setup DT has, so if you'd trust a QuickJack, you can trust DT
Interesting product. I looked at a few YouTube videos. It looks like it comes with pads that contact four points on the pinch weld area though - not like what I experienced today where the lift cleared the pinch weld area and made contact on the underbelly of the car.
It works, but it can be very sketchy if you're working on a car with bad weight distribution. We used a set when replacing the engine in a buddy's evo and it help up fine though. I just wish they were a bit longer.
 
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