Disappointed with Samsung TV

My friend told me a ‘power surge’ could have fried it....IDK...maybe he’s right?
I'd do some Googling, maybe there is an easy fix for this? Could be as easy as a board replacement for $20 on eBay.
 
You pretty much get what you pay for.
Cheap TVs from all brands can be hit or miss, there is a reason they are cheap. I do say hit or miss because they can have very long lives or very short. I feel its luck of the draw.
Mid to higher priced sets are different. I normally am not a brand specific person but I dont think I would ever buy anything less than a mid priced upper tier Sony ex. more than $1,000 for our main set. (Bravia Series)

With that said I am sure that if it was a LG or Samsung TV from their upper tier it would be fine too.
The only way to know upper their vs lower is go to the manufacturers website.

One other thing must be noted in a national and world wide forum and that is around the world some sets succumb to unstable power supply. Any number of sets can succumb to power surges and unstable power supplies. Not that it is anywhere near the majority but one has to keep that in mind. Because trashing one brand over another based on a couple posts from around the world might not be scientific.

I am a HUGE believer in surge suppressors. I have seen the damage for close to a decade of servicing security systems. Summer times were busy times with power surges after storms ect. Both commercial and residential, the worst were on Farms, I used to hate if storms came through before a got home, the systems on farms required immediate service as the feed, climate and water systems were monitored by our systems and a nearby lighting strike would always fry a farm system someplace it would drive me nuts at the end of the day. Service was critical because a failure in the monitoring system for the feed, water and climate systems could result in 10s of thousands of dead livestock.

Anyway, a surge suppressor will not in anyway prevent damage from a direct lightening strike but it will help if it is a borderline strike that is close but not direct. Also people are not aware surges from inside your home every minute of the day take place every time an HVAC unit, or vacuum cleaner, microwave, anything or a higher amperage creates tiny surges and can wear on a device over time. Lets not forget every time the lights flash on and off.
So with that said, there is not one electronic device in my home without a surge suppressor on it, including the refrigerator, washer and microwave, on what might be a more sensitive electronic like my Mac Desk tops, I use two surges, one in the wall and and powerstrip surge.
Any chargeable devices like cell phones, laptops ect, get plugged into a wall based surge suppressor.

On my 65 inch Sony I use a higher end Triplight wall surge plugged into a commercial grade Belkin surge strip in the photo below.
I know this might sound extreme, but electronics are also a fun hobby for me and in 16 years of living in the south now, we never had an appliance or electronic fail which is amazing considering the appliances were all builder grade stuff when the home was built.
This is my Sony protection =
(normally the power surge strip is filled up too but we temp moved into an apartment while our new home is finished and our old home sold.)

IMG_0393.JPG

IMG_0383.jpeg
 
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You pretty much get what you pay for.
Cheap TVs from all brands can be hit or miss, there is a reason they are cheap. I do say hit or miss because they can have very long lives or very short. I feel its luck of the draw.
Mid to higher priced sets are different. I normally am not a brand specific person but I dont think I would ever buy anything less than a mid priced upper tier Sony ex. more than $1,000 for our main set. (Bravia Series)

With that said I am sure that if it was a LG or Samsung TV from their upper tier it would be fine too.
The only way to know upper their vs lower is go to the manufacturers website.

One other thing must be noted in a national and world wide forum and that is around the world some sets succumb to unstable power supply. Any number of sets can succumb to power surges and unstable power supplies. Not that it is anywhere near the majority but one has to keep that in mind. Because trashing one brand over another based on a couple posts from around the world might not be scientific.

I am a HUGE believer in surge suppressors. I have seen the damage for close to a decade of servicing security systems. Summer times were busy times with power surges after storms ect. Both commercial and residential, the worst were on Farms, I used to hate if storms came through before a got home, the systems on farms required immediate service as the feed, climate and water systems were monitored by our systems and a nearby lighting strike would always fry a farm system someplace it would drive me nuts at the end of the day. Service was critical because a failure in the monitoring system for the feed, water and climate systems could result in 10s of thousands of dead livestock.

Anyway, a surge suppressor will not in anyway prevent damage from a direct lightening strike but it will help if it is a borderline strike that is close but not direct. Also people are not aware surges from inside your home every minute of the day take place every time an HVAC unit, or vacuum cleaner, microwave, anything or a higher amperage creates tiny surges and can wear on a device over time. Lets not forget every time the lights flash on and off.
So with that said, there is not one electronic device in my home without a surge suppressor on it, including the refrigerator, washer and microwave, on what might be a more sensitive electronic like my Mac Desk tops, I use two surges, one in the wall and and powerstrip surge.
Any chargeable devices like cell phones, laptops ect, get plugged into a wall based surge suppressor.

On my 65 inch Sony I use a higher end Triplight wall surge plugged into a commercial grade Belkin surge strip in the photo below.
I know this might sound extreme, but electronics are also a fun hobby for me and in 16 years of living in the south now, we never had an appliance or electronic fail which is amazing considering the appliances were all builder grade stuff when the home was built.
This is my Sony protection =
(normally the power surge strip is filled up too but we temp moved into an apartment while our new home is finished and our old home sold.)

View attachment 126180
View attachment 126181
That's a good idea. I wish only the TV-s had enough space for such a large box. I have TrippLite on our washing machine but it would be better to have it on a TV as well. I wish they made a slim version.
 
That's a good idea. I wish only the TV-s had enough space for such a large box. I have TrippLite on our washing machine but it would be better to have it on a TV as well. I wish they made a slim version.
They do make power strips just search Tripp Lite
I dont know if they are worth the money or not but makes me feel good on our most expensive set. I use less expensive ones on everything else.
I think safe to assume Tripp Lite are better made though and also higher quality noise filters for line noise.
surge-protectors~19

Example this is the power strip to my Mac Desktop. I use a Belkin Commercial surge for the power strip and then another less expensive Tripp Lite for the MAC CPU plugged into the Belkin ;) yes, I know I am crazy ...

IMG_0395.jpeg
 
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I found out that my daughter bought this Samsung at PC Richards which is a NY/NJ area box store. I doubt it was a lower quality (Walmart type) model. In fact I find it hard to believe that Samsung (or any name brand company) would sully their name by selling lower quality units to Walmart....just as I doubt Mobil 1 sold at Walmart is lower quality than Mobil 1 sold everywhere else.
 
I found out that my daughter bought this Samsung at PC Richards which is a NY/NJ area box store. I doubt it was a lower quality (Walmart type) model. In fact I find it hard to believe that Samsung (or any name brand company) would sully their name by selling lower quality units to Walmart....just as I doubt Mobil 1 sold at Walmart is lower quality than Mobil 1 sold everywhere else.
I remember way back when I sold shoes for a major mid-end clothing store, New Balance made a few models that was store specific to them. My guess is that anything is possible when it comes to store specific models.
 
Flat panel LCD TVs are remarkably affordable now.

Some of that is undoubtably the result of the advances and lower cost in panel production, but current models may also boast fewer features as well, like input ports, compared to the past.

Lest anyone too fondly remember the Good Old Days, recall the widepsread capacitor issues that affected many products, and esp. Samsung TVs in particular. Lotta techs spent a lot of time travelling to homes and businesses to repalce a handful of caps, on Samsung's dime.

I had a 25" Mitsubishi that required repair on the HV side, a 13" Sony Trinitron that failed to power on, and so forth. Those monster XBRs didn't have a perfect reliability record either.

The biggest change now is that repair, when done, is board swapping and not component level; otherwise, into the bin.
 
They do make power strips just search Tripp Lite
What do you think of the Tripp Lite Ultra Isobar 6? I have it plugged into the wall with 2 APC backup power supplies for my computers and another one with a treadmill and TV plugged into it. I hear a low humming when I get really close to it, I sure hope that's normal!
 
I have a Samsung 46" but it's at least 6+ yrs old, it has done well for me. The only gripe I have is that it's out of date meaning the SmartTV functionality. I'm going to have to get a new one at some point just to resolve the compatibility issues that I've been experiencing but mostly due to using the HDMI Arc which allows me to connect an HDMI cable from the TV to the soundbar and use the same remote to control it, if I change the input on my TV to another input it disconnects the soundbar and I have to unplug my TV and wait a few min before powering it back on. So far I've found a workaround is to use the different inputs on the soundbar itself rather than changing the TV source. I've found Sony now uses GoogleTV and Samsung's have a Linux based open source called Tizen. I know the HDMI Arc is way better today than it was back then.
 
My wife always steers me away from Samsung. We've owned 4 LG's in the last 15 years or so and all have been fine. We kept the smallest one when we moved and gave the others away. Then we bought this latest, the 4th. Picture is awesome. The weakness of LG is the interface.
 
My wife always steers me away from Samsung. We've owned 4 LG's in the last 15 years or so and all have been fine. We kept the smallest one when we moved and gave the others away. Then we bought this latest, the 4th. Picture is awesome. The weakness of LG is the interface.
We don’t worry about the interface on any of our TVs as we only use Roku players instead of the built in OS. Not that I am promoting that idea, it’s just what we do.

Once in a very great while we may connect the TV to our WiFi to do a check for Firmware update then disconnect.

I like your wife’s bias towards LG, not for any scientific reason but I feel the same regarding those two brands in general. Besides us preferring Sony for our main TV set when it comes to appliances in general LG is a top contender and wouldn’t hesitate for their OLED TVs as a choice.
 
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What do you think of the Tripp Lite Ultra Isobar 6? I have it plugged into the wall with 2 APC backup power supplies for my computers and another one with a treadmill and TV plugged into it. I hear a low humming when I get really close to it, I sure hope that's normal!
I honestly don’t know about the humming of the APCs but have nothing against any of the mentioned companies.

You seem well protected and no secret I like the isobar brand for no scientific reason other than they seem robust based on their marketing and part of the Eaton group.

Except for the Sony I do shy away from them over cost and it’s been a while since I checked specs but think (stress think) they have among the best clamping voltage of 300 or so volts over the standard 600 which is still good and the majority of the suppressors.
It’s been a while and I could be wrong but one of the 2 brands has a low suppression voltage which I like.

If I remember correctly the last outlets on the isobar have the most protection.

Maybe shift the APC around and see if the hum goes away, could it be harmonics from the transformer?
 
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