Hey everybody I made a threat about torque converter shudder I changed all the fluid in my 92 F150 and it still has the shudder problem. I even use some lube guard shudder fix and I think it helped but it's definitely still a problem it normally only acts up on hills and light acceleration but sometimes it'll act up under light acceleration on flat ground. And I believe it's usually going into third gear but I won't swear to it. Could I just disable the lock up converter it's a twenty-six-year-old truck and I really don't want to replace the transmission if I disable the torque converter lockup and it would work properly I would be fine with it. Any information on this is highly appreciated.
Disabling torque converter lock-up e4od
- Thread starter ram_man
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Did you try changing the filter first?
Try two bottles of lubegard platinum. Then drive it for at least 500 miles
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Look up the Torque Converter Solenoid on your vehicle on RockAuto so you know what it looks like and disconnect the wire for it.
I don't know what driveability problems this might cause in the transmission or if it invokes a limp-in-mode so you will have to experiment at your own risk.
I don't know what driveability problems this might cause in the transmission or if it invokes a limp-in-mode so you will have to experiment at your own risk.
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Try 2 bottles of Lubeguard red not the platinum first and give it some time to clean.
Originally Posted by ram_man
What would happen if I just disabled the lock up?
Increased wear on the transmission as the torque converter slips all the time and generates extra heat. Worse fuel economy than you already get.
What would happen if I just disabled the lock up?
Increased wear on the transmission as the torque converter slips all the time and generates extra heat. Worse fuel economy than you already get.
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There are some newer passenger vehicles that do not have big enough cooling circuit to take the extra heat from disabling the lockup.
In addition it will throw a code, and you may not be able to pass emissions if they have it.
It takes extra power and weight to move more fluid thru a cooler.
Rod
In addition it will throw a code, and you may not be able to pass emissions if they have it.
It takes extra power and weight to move more fluid thru a cooler.
Rod
Are you certain it's the torque converter? I had a '94 F150 that would have some shuddering/bucking around the 30-40 mph range during light acceleration. Ended up replacing the distributor and rotor/cap, new Motorcraft wires and plugs, and it cured it completely.
Originally Posted by 28oz
Are you certain it's the torque converter? I had a '94 F150 that would have some shuddering/bucking around the 30-40 mph range during light acceleration. Ended up replacing the distributor and rotor/cap, new Motorcraft wires and plugs, and it cured it completely.
Ditto on my 93 4x4 ...
Are you certain it's the torque converter? I had a '94 F150 that would have some shuddering/bucking around the 30-40 mph range during light acceleration. Ended up replacing the distributor and rotor/cap, new Motorcraft wires and plugs, and it cured it completely.
Ditto on my 93 4x4 ...
Originally Posted by BrocLuno
Originally Posted by 28oz
Are you certain it's the torque converter? I had a '94 F150 that would have some shuddering/bucking around the 30-40 mph range during light acceleration. Ended up replacing the distributor and rotor/cap, new Motorcraft wires and plugs, and it cured it completely.
Ditto on my 93 4x4 ...
Yeah, at the time, I was wondering if it was the trans/torque converter acting up because it would shudder/buck right in that speed range where the trans would usually shift. I think the actual culprit was the distributor as something on it would become magnetized over time, if I remember correctly. The plugs/wires were just due anyway but could contribute or magnify any ignition related issue.
Originally Posted by 28oz
Are you certain it's the torque converter? I had a '94 F150 that would have some shuddering/bucking around the 30-40 mph range during light acceleration. Ended up replacing the distributor and rotor/cap, new Motorcraft wires and plugs, and it cured it completely.
Ditto on my 93 4x4 ...
Yeah, at the time, I was wondering if it was the trans/torque converter acting up because it would shudder/buck right in that speed range where the trans would usually shift. I think the actual culprit was the distributor as something on it would become magnetized over time, if I remember correctly. The plugs/wires were just due anyway but could contribute or magnify any ignition related issue.
How about if you just disable lock up long enough to see if it cures the problem?. I have also heard of people putting a lock up switch in so as to lock up the clutch yourself as you choose.
I had a 96 Mercury whose lock up converter was giving me problems. My mechanic pulled the wire that activated the lockup and the problem was solved. Drove it for about two years more before I sold it. Never did notice any drop in mileage.
Locate the engine controller connector on the left side of the firewall, Loosen the jack screw in the center of the connector, Remove the connector from the ECM. Release the 4 connector cover latch legs & remove the cover.....There may be electrical tape holding the cover to the harness. Remove it.
Locate terminal #53, Wire color is Purple with a Yellow trace. Clip this wire about 3-4 inches from the ECM connector......Making it easy to splice back together later.
DO NOT mess with the Solenoid Pack connector at the transmission!!!! It & the wiring near it is VERY easy to damage.
Your going to have to see what interrupting the TCC Solenoid control does, Different years have different calibrations/fail safe parameters for DTC's.
A resistor can be wired in to fool the ECM into thinking the TCC Solenoid is still connected, However.....The ECM may compare speed sensor inputs to verify converter lock/slip.
It's been years since I've messed with a E4OD.
Alternate approach.........
Clip the Brake Light Switch input (BOO Input in Ford speak), This circuit is located on terminal #2, Wire color Light-Green.
*Clip the wire & tape-up the leg on the harness side
*Run a 2 amp FUSED ignition power source to the ECM side. (Key-on power)
*This will make the ECM think the brakes are applied at all times & SHOULD keep the TCC from being commanded.
Good luck!
Locate terminal #53, Wire color is Purple with a Yellow trace. Clip this wire about 3-4 inches from the ECM connector......Making it easy to splice back together later.
DO NOT mess with the Solenoid Pack connector at the transmission!!!! It & the wiring near it is VERY easy to damage.
Your going to have to see what interrupting the TCC Solenoid control does, Different years have different calibrations/fail safe parameters for DTC's.
A resistor can be wired in to fool the ECM into thinking the TCC Solenoid is still connected, However.....The ECM may compare speed sensor inputs to verify converter lock/slip.
It's been years since I've messed with a E4OD.
Alternate approach.........
Clip the Brake Light Switch input (BOO Input in Ford speak), This circuit is located on terminal #2, Wire color Light-Green.
*Clip the wire & tape-up the leg on the harness side
*Run a 2 amp FUSED ignition power source to the ECM side. (Key-on power)
*This will make the ECM think the brakes are applied at all times & SHOULD keep the TCC from being commanded.
Good luck!
If the Lubegard doesnt work try the Lucas transmission fix. Depending on what's wrong the Lucas may be more effective
Originally Posted by ram_man
What would happen if I just disabled the lock up?
If you're lucky, our MPG goes down.
If you're unlucky, you overheat your transmission continually when on the highway.
The lock-up eliminates Torque Converter slipping while on the highway. That slipping creates lots of heat. Your cooler was probably just a coil in the radiator tank, which doesn't reject a ton of heat.
IF you go the "disable lock up" route, I would add a nice big cooler to your transmission.
What would happen if I just disabled the lock up?
If you're lucky, our MPG goes down.
If you're unlucky, you overheat your transmission continually when on the highway.
The lock-up eliminates Torque Converter slipping while on the highway. That slipping creates lots of heat. Your cooler was probably just a coil in the radiator tank, which doesn't reject a ton of heat.
IF you go the "disable lock up" route, I would add a nice big cooler to your transmission.
Two things - first, try locking out O/D. I had two of these in the past and at low speeds (under about 50mph) it helped.
Second, since it only happens under light acceleration, accelerate harder. There is an old worn pump putting out pressure to the old worn torque converter, and at light throttle it is not enough pressure for a solid engagement.
Second, since it only happens under light acceleration, accelerate harder. There is an old worn pump putting out pressure to the old worn torque converter, and at light throttle it is not enough pressure for a solid engagement.
Spend a little $$ on a good shop and get a proper diag. It may be very simple problem..
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