Dino or Grp. III 0w-XX oils?

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Doing some thinking whilst narrowing down my choices for motor oil. My Honda Civic HX (High Efficiency VTEC-E) lists a preference for 5w-30 in its manual and on the oil filler cap. To date I have been buying Mobil 1 5w-30 for this reason, but I am wondering about a few things:

With loads of speculation about some grades of M1 being changed to Grp. III base oils, am I better off to go with a 0w-30 oil, since to my knowledge (limited, so please go easy) there are no dino or exclusively Grp. III 0w-xx oils? M1 0w-30 doesn't seem to have the following of its 20 and 40 couterparts, so I know little to nothing about it, apart from what's on Mobil's site.

Also, I have considered GC, which seems to be proven Grp. IV at least, but some posts on this sight lead me to believe it's a bit thicker than I might want for my engine. GC's API donut on the back of the bottle doesn't carry the "energy conserving" label either, and his car gets 40+ mpg with M1 5w-30, so that's not something I want to sacrifice with another oil. From all I can tell, GC may not carry this logo because it doesn't contain friction modifier, as its apparently constructed of German Uber-esters that don't need them. So, might my engine still get this kind of mileage, even without this label on the bottle?

Furthermore, my fiancee's Ford Focus specifies 5w-20, and I have been using Motorcraft in this application, and seems to do well. However, her engine is the lowly 2.0l SPI design, and I cannot imagine it's anymore sophisticated or made to higher tolerances than the D16y5 in my Civic. I could be wrong there, but this has led me to consider moving to a 0w-20 or 5w-20 (I live in Georgia, so winter isn't much concern, but summers are intense) in the Honda. I've also read that Honda now specifies this in all its newer models, and that the Hybrids all get 0w-20 factory fill in order to garner their excellent mileage. That being he case, I've thought that even thinner stuff might help push my mileage even further (already getting 46-48 mpg on road trips at 65-70 mph) and put me into hybrid territory. Am I being greedy here, or is 0w-20 up to the job in slightly older engines?

Any info on any of these inquiries will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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I like the idea of an oil that doesn't take much energy away from the engine to pump, yet still has a thick enough film to protect the engine from metal to metal contact. I'm not sure that a lower viscosity oil is the answer as much as an oil that reduces friction to a nanoscopic minimum. My gut feeling tells me that an oil of medium viscosity can still have high anti-friction properties and yet still have the film strength necessary keep parts in motion from contacting each other.
 
It just makes me curious that Ford, Honda, and others are now specifying a 5w-20 oil for engine designs that are usually identical or not far from types they previously recommended various Xw-30 oils for previously.

Also, I've been reading info on this site that shows how 5w-xx oils are sometimes thicker than 10w-xx at temperature. How do Ow-xx oils stand up by comparison?

I'd love to get 50 mpg, but I'd enjoy seeing the odo. roll over 300,000 more, so if 20w seems objectionable, then I'll stick to the 30s.
 
I'm thinking most applications specifying 5W-20 can do just fine or better with 5W-30. And since most applications specifying 5W-30 can do just fine or better with 10W-30. . . then. . .
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My gut feeling tells me that an oil of medium viscosity can still have high anti-friction properties and yet still have the film strength necessary keep parts in motion from contacting each other.




Same feeling here but after my first ever 5w-20 oc my 05 Ford runs and idles smoother than with 10w-30. I'm thinking a 50:50 mix may be a good compromise.
 
There are a few exclusively group 3 0W-30's - up in Canada, at least. We have Petro-Canada 'Artic' 0W-30 and Tech 2000 0W-30; which are both group 3. Don't know if you have any comparable cheap 0W-30's in the US, though.
 
The more important question is why worry about some mystical journey to find the ultimate group IV for a Honda Civic. A Civic isn't gonna notice one bit of a difference between group III and group IV. Honda 4-bangers are just fine on oil....don't stress and certainly don't worry with going out of grade just to find a group IV. But to answer your other question, no, your car won't blow up if you go out of grade....
 
Good advice, thanks everyone.

Brian, it's good to hear that. I know of Civic that have lasted to 150k+ with horrible OCIs and no regard for recommended oils--including a co-worker's that goes upwards of 10k on each dino OCI and still keeps on ticking!

Thanks to the generosity of my future father-in-law, I just got my first case of GC, which I plan to mix in with three quarts MC in my fiancee's Focus--and mix 50:50 with M1 5w-20 on my next change. Sound good? or should I just go straight with this stuff, mix with Castrol dino, or what else?

Also, just one more question: I am doing an ATF change in the above mentioned Focus--7 qts!--and bought 2 qts M1 ATF and 5 Castrol Mercon V. Is this mix ok? Again, bill footed by my future father-in-law...
 
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Good advice, thanks everyone.

Brian, it's good to hear that. I know of Civic that have lasted to 150k+ with horrible OCIs and no regard for recommended oils--including a co-worker's that goes upwards of 10k on each dino OCI and still keeps on ticking!

Thanks to the generosity of my future father-in-law, I just got my first case of GC, which I plan to mix in with three quarts MC in my fiancee's Focus--and mix 50:50 with M1 5w-20 on my next change. Sound good? or should I just go straight with this stuff, mix with Castrol dino, or what else?

Also, just one more question: I am doing an ATF change in the above mentioned Focus--7 qts!--and bought 2 qts M1 ATF and 5 Castrol Mercon V. Is this mix ok? Again, bill footed by my future father-in-law...


Where do you get those ideas about mixing the oil from.
 
I would never recomend mixing automatic transmission fluids. Just asking for trouble. Stick with the mobil 1 5w-30. You will not see any better milage with the 0w-20 or 0w-30 and in Atlanta you don't need a 0 weight oil.
 
I did the partial drain and fill this afternoon, prior to reading this, and have to wonder why I shouldn't mix ATFs? The factory fill (AFAIK) was still in the transmission up to now, so to do a drain and fill I have to mix something in with this, do I not?

Mobil 1 ATF is Mercon and Mercon V compatible, and the castrol IS Mercon V labeled. Is there something I'm missing? I'll be doing this again in about 15k miles, so should I avoid this then for some reason?

As for mixing oils, I read about it all over this site! People talking of mixing different grades for various reasons, blending their own partial synthetics from Dino and Syns, and with the amount of brand and variety switching some claim to do, there are probably some cars out there with remnants of a vast variety of oil types!

That where I got the idea, now what's wrong with it?
 
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People talking of mixing different grades..



And all it is, is talk, as no one is doing any testing on their home-brews to verify that the mixing strategy is working.

ExxonMobil reported recently that problems exist with substituting Grp III base oils into an existing formulation.

The additives do not perform the same with base oils from supplier X vs. supplier Y. One test produced a formulation that did not even meet a key GF-4 engine wear test.

So, yes, while all motor oils are compatible, a home brew may generate the problem where a portion of the mixed additives is not performing & accelerated wear or deposit formation may occur during the OCI.
 
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