I had problems with QS even into the early 1980's with sludge. I started using QS in the early 1070's because it was for a time the only oil company that marketed its engine oil though discounters, at least in the south. It was sold in stores like K-Mart, and later Wal-Mart. So at least at that time and place it was the only EO you could get unless you went to a gas station and paid a (then) huge price premium for your oil. Fast forward 10 or 12 years of dedicated QS use when I experienced problems with two engines about six months apart. The first issue was siezed piston rings on number 7 cylinder in a 350 CID 74' Chevy Nova. The mechanic had already pulled the engine and had removed the oil pan and took me over to show me the sludge he had found in it. What a mess! The very next thing out of his mouth was to ask me if I used QS oil. I said I had since the car was new, so yeah, I used it for the 52K miles on the car. He shook his head saying he knew it, but had to ask...because he never saw that kind of mess except with QS. Six months later at another repair shop in a nearby town I had to repair a 73' VW Beetle. When the engine case was taken apart there was the same nasty grey sludge, about a half inch thick in the sump. This mechanic looked at me and asked what kind of oil I used. I said, I use QS. Almost the same response from him as the other guy...except he said "I thought so, I see a lot of that with that oil." Needless to say I never used that oil again, even to this day, even if they may have changed their formula a hundred times since. You couldn't give me a life-time supply of QS to save your life! Twice burnt, thrice cautious!
dimestore oil is really the best?
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http://www.caltex.com.au/motorsport_v8_car.asp
This car allegedly uses off the shelf havoline premium 20W-50.
They invite journalists to a test day, and ask them to pick up some oil on the way to the track. Fill it with OTC oil, then hot lap.
Doesn't prove anything really, but not a bad advertisement.
(Note the other lubricants that it uses, particularly the single wheel nut)
This car allegedly uses off the shelf havoline premium 20W-50.
They invite journalists to a test day, and ask them to pick up some oil on the way to the track. Fill it with OTC oil, then hot lap.
Doesn't prove anything really, but not a bad advertisement.
(Note the other lubricants that it uses, particularly the single wheel nut)
A lot of mechanical damage get blamed on the oil that may well not be the oil's fault. Usually, with an investigation by engineers, tribologists, and a good lab, (rather than a mechanics' best guess...not dissing mechanics here, they dont have the resurces to fully investigate the failure, they can fully fix it!)the failure mode is found and the oil is a symptom not a cause.
That said, there can be low-quality misblended oils. Folks are loyal to brands (or not).
Quaker State is now a Shell product and the orginal folks and company no longer exist...most consumers never know. Havoline was a "ground breaking" oil technology in the early days of automobiles; Texaco bought the company and brand in like 1920 or 1930 I think...in late 2002 Chevron bought Texaco and formulated a Havoline worthy of its heritage (as seen on this board).
Brands are strong identifiers indeed, even if the ownership and philosopy behind them has changed over time. My grandad swore on Quaker State becuase the US Pennslvania crude made better oil (less wax) given the crude technolgy in the refineries durin his young years in th 1920's --- that concern was alleviated by the 1950's with solvent dewaxing (never mind catalytic dewax developed by Chevron and now used in many refineries for even higher quality base oils) --- but grandad SWORE by QS until he died --- would not listen to anything else...once good always good; once bad always bad...
We humans are not always like "Spock" ...thank goodness!
That said, there can be low-quality misblended oils. Folks are loyal to brands (or not).
Quaker State is now a Shell product and the orginal folks and company no longer exist...most consumers never know. Havoline was a "ground breaking" oil technology in the early days of automobiles; Texaco bought the company and brand in like 1920 or 1930 I think...in late 2002 Chevron bought Texaco and formulated a Havoline worthy of its heritage (as seen on this board).
Brands are strong identifiers indeed, even if the ownership and philosopy behind them has changed over time. My grandad swore on Quaker State becuase the US Pennslvania crude made better oil (less wax) given the crude technolgy in the refineries durin his young years in th 1920's --- that concern was alleviated by the 1950's with solvent dewaxing (never mind catalytic dewax developed by Chevron and now used in many refineries for even higher quality base oils) --- but grandad SWORE by QS until he died --- would not listen to anything else...once good always good; once bad always bad...
We humans are not always like "Spock" ...thank goodness!
Sorry. I didn't mean to imply that the mechanics had said the oil had caused the problem. I sure agree with your comment though. In fact the crappy 350 Chevy's problem was due to a bad valve guide(s) that coked up that #7 cylinder. The VW's problem was a classic failure to properly stake down the fuel injector nozzle at the top of the carb throat after I rebuilt it, and that nozzle came loose and got sucked into the intake and bent a intake valve. I should have been more clear about that, and that there was a lot of sludge which both mechanics commented on as their having seen a lot of that with QC oil of the day.
Some of you may remember in the 80's when QS used to advertise if you used only QS they would guarantee your engine for 100,000 miles?
Back in the early 80's I done a lot of light engine work. I believe that oil companies were behind the times keeping up with all the pollution controls put on engines and the extreme heat they made. The oils would break down in 3000 miles. Come out black and just look bad or smell excessive fuel in them. Valve cover and intake areas would have sludge inches thick. Oils now have improved additive packs and rarely sludge except for a couple of poor engine designs with extended oci's for the type of driving done. I have seen tremendous improvements since then and you can actually drive a car and feel the power that can be made not like the engines from the detuned 80's car.
Ι τηινκ there was a guy that believed the dimestore oils are superior.
I saw him in a brand new toyota tacoma with a bed full of 'Golden State" and a smile on his face while he smoked a nasty cheap flavored cigar.
That cheap stuff is what you want to avoid.
A name brand or special blender oil is what you look for.
I saw him in a brand new toyota tacoma with a bed full of 'Golden State" and a smile on his face while he smoked a nasty cheap flavored cigar.
That cheap stuff is what you want to avoid.
A name brand or special blender oil is what you look for.
I'm not aware of any basestock or additive comparisons posted on this board that back up that statement.
And many of the UOA's indicate that the major brands perform on similar levels in a variety of engines.
What I think you are seeing is the rising/falling tides of opinion cycles & certain brands will get more bandwidth then others.
Blue99
I think you have answered my question. Yes, I think I noticed that. I couldn't really put my finger on it, but I think you are correct. Still not 100% certain though.
Many on this forum praise Havoline as so awsome, but they do say, "for the price", so basically, that statement in and of itself doesn't really mean it has the best add packs, it's just what it is..."for the price" it is better than the others, when in reality it may only be JUST AS GOOD. (???)
I think you have answered my question. Yes, I think I noticed that. I couldn't really put my finger on it, but I think you are correct. Still not 100% certain though.
Many on this forum praise Havoline as so awsome, but they do say, "for the price", so basically, that statement in and of itself doesn't really mean it has the best add packs, it's just what it is..."for the price" it is better than the others, when in reality it may only be JUST AS GOOD. (???)
And the same with Pennzoil!
Pennzoil Warrenty Link
You can buy good oil with warrenty for around $2 retail a quart.
And you'll notice that they don't make you change every 3000 miles!
Take care, Bill
Any brand oil rated API "SM" will do the job on any 2006 or earlier automobile or light truck engine calling for that rating over the oil change interval specified by the engine manufacturer.
("dimestore" oil - geesh!)
("dimestore" oil - geesh!)
Ray,
Totally agree.
Take care, Bill
What really gets me is that the "Family Dollar" and "Dollar Tree" brand of oil is sold in black containers with labelling that looks just like Havoline, and right next to it to boot. I have to laugh when I see this stuff ( the knock-off brand) labeled as "Group-4" and carrying an API seal of approval. Are they serious?
QS ran a bad batch of oil in the early 80's and ended up buying a bunch of seized up engines. A friend of mine handled the insurance claims for QS.
It's up to 10 years and 250,000 miles according to the back of one of my freshest quarts!
I guess I gave myself away on how long it's been since I had a quart of QS in my hand, huh?
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
QS is in good hands today. I wouldn't hesitate to use it. Some new vehicle manufacturers trust it on the assembly line - so does Pennzoil/Shell who now owns QS. I would buy it over Formula Shell, Citgo, Valvoline All-Climate.... etc.
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