Did I screw up with SynLube?

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Originally Posted By: wolfc70

Synlube is not well like here for stated reasons.


Yeah, I got that, LOL.

The guy who said he "wouldn't use that" posted immediately after my post where I said next time I'll use AmsOil, so, I wasn't quite sure what he meant.
 
Referring to Synlube, not Amsoil.

Request that before they do anything, they drain the oil into a container for you. Request a refund for the oil and a printout of the findings on your car. You need a detailed report from the dealer stating that such and such components were comprimised and it was due to the oil.

Either he will pair for the repair or you have a claim to take him to court to receive the money due for the repairs as he has a "warranty".

The reason Synlube isn't well liked here is more so the heretic behavior of the users/followers of the product. This can be seen first hand on the NAIOA forums. Secondly Miro will not, ever ever ever give you a sample bottle to run a VOA. He wants you to pay for it. Thats a huge amount of money for 1 bottle, and he won't sell it as 1 bottle from what i've found on forums around the net. If he suspects what your going to use it for, he prohibits the sale. Its either all or nothing(buy a full oil change from him or natta).

I would think he would want his product to be marketed better and provide at least a few samples initially to have results from well known websites/media representatives.

Lastly, Miro can be a ........, this is evident on the NAIOA forums.
 
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Buster was refering to Synlube not Amsoil in that instance.

What you really need is some PU. Not only will it keep your engine spotless but it will make your car run and smell as good as it looks.
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My car isn't at a dealer, its just a small shop. And, while I should have gotten a used oil analysis before agreeing to it, too late. In fact, I called Monday to try to cancel, but, they had already pulled the engine out Saturday. So, its too late.
 
Put it this way. One of the cars on the site is a 1987 Mazda RX-7. The same site says that their oil is not to be used in a Mazda rotary engime.

And no, Synlube will never put up a dime. They won't even donate a quart for a VOA.
 
Pennzoil Ultra. Fanboism at its best. Use what you prefer, but make sure its nothing as far fetched as Synlube. Use a recommended oil, at the manufacturer oil intervals and you will be fine.
 
I wonder how many more synlube threads we're going to have this week?!

Follow your manual, not the opposite of what your manual says. Pretty common sense stuff.

Anyone can make wild unbelievable claims, few back it up.
 
Originally Posted By: webfors
I wonder how many more synlube threads we're going to have this week?!


Well, I hope its the last! I won't start another SynLube related thread after all the luv I got so far! LOL.
 
Originally Posted By: OilMeBob
Originally Posted By: buster
I personally wouldn't touch that product.


Which one, AmsOil? You don't like AmsOil?


No, Synlube. Amsoil and Redline are probably the only two small blenders I actually trust.

You are better off sticking with a formulation that is from one of the major lube makers. You are at least getting a product that has been tested in industry standard tests. They are legit products.
 
Just to clarify, Amsoil's 'XL' line of oils are actually API-certified oils for those who require it.

OilMeBob,

Just how much is this engine re-build going to cost you? how new of a car is this?
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy

Just how much is this engine re-build going to cost you? how new of a car is this?


Too much, and its an '07 MS3, only 35k miles. But, the good news is that, after this work, and if I use good oil, it should be very stable. Most of my cars I've owned for 7-10 years with 150k miles or so. I expect/hope to be back on that track after this rebuild.
 
Don't sweat it. If I had the money I'd go forged rods/pistons too (well, rods are already forged, but the quality aftermarket ones I mean) despite my car not needing it. You're right, these cars bend rods left and right and it sucks always wondering if your next.

When you get it done though, please switch to something like Redline afterwards. It will help with the D.I. issue of valve buildup. Ask your mechanic to take pictures of your intake valves when he does the build. This would help the community in a big way. I want to see how bad they are after those miles. My guess is.. REAL REAL bad!
 
Originally Posted By: shpankey
Don't sweat it. If I had the money I'd go forged rods/pistons too (well, rods are already forged, but the quality aftermarket ones I mean) despite my car not needing it. You're right, these cars bend rods left and right and it sucks always wondering if your next.


Take that, all you haters!!! LOL.

Originally Posted By: shpankey
Ask your mechanic to take pictures of your intake valves when he does the build. This would help the community in a big way. I want to see how bad they are after those miles. My guess is.. REAL REAL bad!


I've had my intake manifold off, and it looked like ****. My mechanic said there was more **** than he'd seen in cars with 10x the miles on it. I put water injection in, so, that hopefully makes it better.
 
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Originally Posted By: OilMeBob
I've had my intake manifold off, and it looked like ****. My mechanic said there was more **** than he'd seen in cars with 10x the miles on it. I put water injection in, so, that hopefully makes it better.


That tells us right there that Synlube doesn't live up to it's claims. Personally I'd rather put astroglide in my car after having read all the [censored] on Synlube lately. At least then my car would experience a "pleasant warming sensation" while slowly destroying itself.

Either way, good luck. Sucks that you got pulled into the Synlube "hype".
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Originally Posted By: zoomzoom

Well here is perfect opportunity to get oil sample analyzed, don't let them open up the engine until you do oil analysis!


I specifically told them to keep the oil. But, its being torn down already.
 
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