Did I screw up with SynLube?

[OilMeBob]

I'm new here. I see a topic on SynLube as being locked. I hope it is okay to start a different thread on it. I'm not here to sell it, just to tell my story and ask for opinions.

I bought a medium performance turbo car, a Mazdaspeed 3. Most people would be anxious to change oil often. I figured, buy the "best" like SynLube and I'll never need to change the oil and actually be better off! In theory...

Now, Miro wasn't so sure he wanted to sell me as he figured I'd trash the car and blame him. I wasn't expecting to do any mods to it when I bought it. And I've kept cars for 10 years before. I told him this, and so, he sold me the product.

Perhaps of relevance, perhaps not, but, I wound up doing a fair number of bolt-ons, intake, exhaust, downpipe, etc. Nothing really radical like a bigger turbo, just modest upgrades. I did not have this intention when I bought it, I just kinda got the bug, ya know?

Well, the car has around 35k miles on it, and I had it in the shop. On more than one occasion, I've had people say, "hey, your oil is black, you need to change it". SynLube is pitch black out of the bottle, and, I don't want to explain all the SynLube stuff to a mechanic, so, I just say, "I'll change it this weekend".

So, last week, I had the car in the shop, and, the mechanic said "hey, your oil's black... and it shimmers, it looks like metal is in the oil"!!! My kind of car is known to throw rods, on occasion, so the shop recommended I have the engine torn down and put in forged pistons/rods.

I probably said okay too easily, maybe shoulda done a UOA first. Maybe even what they thought was metal was just the particulates in the SynLube. I don't know. I have used SynLube's recommended filters and the Filtermag, which they also recommend. So, whatever it was, maybe it wasn't what the shop said and maybe I'm spending a ton on nothing.

The shop has pulled my motor, but, hasn't gotten into it yet, so, I don't know what they will find. But, their suspicion is a bad bearing and if they are right, then, maybe SynLube is liable? They say on their site that they guarantee the engine to last 200,000 miles. So, would I have a claim? Now, SynLube might try to blame the problem on my bolt-ons and say that makes them not liable. But, I would think my bolt-ons would not cause a bearing to wear out if the oil is as good as
claimed.

So, what do people here think?

 

[Johnny]

I think I can speak for most on here, we don't know what to think. We have never seen a VOA or a UOA on this product and most of us do not believe in it. That being said, according to their own website, if you ship them back the drained oil, they will give you your money back. As for as them fixing your engine, good luck.

 

[addyguy]

How many oil changes did you do before you put the synlube in?

If you changed the oil right away to synlube, then there would have been some break-in material in the oil, which would accumulate, and you could see a metallic sheen to the oil.

Even with the metallic shimmer, if you're engine was running fine, there was no reason to re-build it. The shop took advantage of the condition of your oil to get you to agree to a complete re-build.

I would not put faith in Synlube to replace your engine. IF there is a problem, they will find some way to blame you. If there isn't anything wrong with the engine, you got suckered by the shop.

I know there is no way to say this with 'no offense' attached, but you are a complete idiot who obviously has WAY more money than brains. What would possess you to buy a new car, that has a manufacturers warranty on it, and then put a 'dubious' oil like Synlube in it?

I wish i had the kind of money you have to just have re-build done on an engine because a shop suggested it!

 

[brandini]

to the thread title: yes

 

[willix]

Maybe there is a forum that astronauts & aerospace engineers frequent that would be more suitable. We want to see numbers and the rhetoric only has created problems. Put up some numbers to back up the words.

 

[hate2work]

I think you're just another synlube troll who came up with this story because the other thread was locked and you wanted more attention.

 

[MrBeachcomber]

Do an UOA and find out what's in your oil first. Then you can decide what path to take if a rebuild is necessary. I wouldn't start blaming anyone yet until the problem is known.

What does the written guarantee actually say? Most extended warranties specifically exclude non-stock modifications to the engine/drive train, commercial use, racing/high performance events, additional oil additives, etc. due to the simple fact these events can and do cause damage beyond the capability of any product/manufacturer to control.

Good luck!

 

[mechtech2]

You're not going to get a dime towards the engine .
Maybe the oil.

 

[willix]

The Lunarover is broke down.

 

[Quest]

Hate to rain on your parade but with the damages done by those 3 avid-supporters of Synlube on BITOG, and given the rather unproven/shady nature of this lubricant products and the way they support their customers and such, I personally would stay away from it at all cost.

In your case, I would hold back the thought of requiring a complete rebuld but a partial taking-apart to inspect rod/main bearing clearances, etc. and then put it back into the car. Resort to using good quality over-the-counter synthetic oils from major North American brand name and set OCI around 5000~7000kms and perform a UOA every 15,000kms to monitor wear and such.

Good luck on that.

Q.

 

[KrisZ]

Not to be rude, but you screwed up and you screwed up big time, now it's time to pony up some cash and not repeat the same mistake again.

 

[OilMeBob]

Originally Posted By: addyguy
How many oil changes did you do before you put the synlube in?


First oil change, like 1k miles.

Originally Posted By: addyguy
I know there is no way to say this with 'no offense' attached, but you are a complete idiot who obviously has WAY more money than brains.


Thanks for your support!

Originally Posted By: addyguy

I wish i had the kind of money you have to just have re-build done on an engine because a shop suggested it!


Well, it wasn't JUST because they suggested it, a fair number of people have thrown rods in this car. That, and they did give the hard line, "your engine's about to blow". They had an from another Mazdaspeed sitting to the side, with a big hole in in from a thrown rod. But, I do acknowlege I agreed too quick to the ordeal, and regret the decision.

 

[TurboJim]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
I think I can speak for most on here, we don't know what to think. As for as them fixing your engine, good luck.


Anytime you start making modifications to increase the power of your engine you're assuming the risk. Had you consulted with Miro just before you did this he might have told you now is the time to send the oil back for a refund. We'll never know.

 

[OilMeBob]

Well, I'll let you know what the shop finds.

And, in the future, I'll stick with something like AmsOil.

I can see I'm not getting a lot of sympathy here... LOL.

 

[buster]

I personally wouldn't touch that product.

I would use Redline oil in your car.

 

[addyguy]

There would be more sympathy/support if Synlube wasn't so 'snakeoilish' - their website is unbelievably tacky and out of date, the 'technology' used in their products is out-dated and obsolete, ad they make rediculous claims - 'never change your oil', '150k oil changes'.

Plus, whenever you try to talk about this oil, the company owner (Miro) and people who suppost this product are over-the-top defensive about it - the attitude is, 'it's the best oil in the world, and if you just don't understand this, you are an idiot'.

I've seen a UOA on this oil after about 16k, and I will openly admiot the results weren't bad, and the oil itself doesn't look like a 'bad' product'...but there is so much hype and garbage around it, most here just dismiss it......

 

[Cup of Joe]

Originally Posted By: OilMeBob
Well, I'll let you know what the shop finds.

And, in the future, I'll stick with something like AmsOil.

I can see I'm not getting a lot of sympathy here... LOL.



Something similar has happened before. Miro will tell you the mechanics do not understand what they are seeing since sylube contains solids as lubricant. Since you already let them spend time pulling the engine you will be out some cash either way on this deal. You can still retrieve the oil and send it back to Miro for a refund.

Personally I would say you moved to quickly only because of your lubricant choice and lack of good tangible data.

 

[ryan2022]

Can you check your bearings by dropping the pan?

I wouldnt trust the dealer for a minute. No-offense, but you sort of walked into that one.

Seeing how it sounds like youve got a good amount of money, I'd take the bet of having them put the motor back in untouched and refill with Mobil 1 or PP. A good high temp oil. Run it from there, and monitor from then on out.

Thats a great car, take care of her! Have you seen synlubes website? A decent website isnt terribly expensive to create and maintain. If thats the best they can do, I wouldnt trust their oils either. They might be terrific, who knows? there is no way to tell without a VOA, and they dont help the matter. Just my 2 cents.

Ryan

 

[OilMeBob]

Originally Posted By: buster
I personally wouldn't touch that product.


Which one, AmsOil? You don't like AmsOil?

 

[wolfc70]

Originally Posted By: OilMeBob
Originally Posted By: buster
I personally wouldn't touch that product.


Which one, AmsOil? You don't like AmsOil?


Amsoil is fine, there are tons of UOA's here that show Amsoil is top level stuff. However, some of Amsoil's products are not API certified. Not a big deal if you are out of warranty, but under warranty, you may want to use an approved product. Redline is excellent also, but not API approved either.

Synlube is not well like here for stated reasons. Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, and others all have numerous UOA's showing that they do work as advertised, so more people are inclined to use them. That and these companies do back their products. Not to mention Mobil and Pennzoil have excellent products that will work just fine in most applications.