Dad's 1947 Lincoln coupe

Today's update. Waiting on some new ignition condensers to arrive, but I've cleaned up the points and the coil seems to be working. The old condensers test abnormally high in capacitance, and I'm a bit suspicious of them. For all I know, they are original. New ones on order, but it might be a few more days yet. Last attempt to start it revealed that the choke rod was no longer attached to the knob, and now I see why. There was a plastic insert that the rod threaded into, and it has crumbled away. My 21st century repair was I had some vinyl tubing, and after doctoring a piece, it fit perfectly in the rear of the knob and the rod threads into it. Now the choke works.

Taking stock of the rest of the electrical system. Yikes. Headlights work, front marker lights work, horn works, the ignition circuit works, and the temperature gauge appears to be working since it reads hot when the ignition is off, but it slowly goes over to cold when it's on. The center brake light in the trunk works. That's it. No taillights, no interior lights, no dash lights, no fog lights, no turn signals, and the power windows are still inop. Clearly, I've got some wiring to sort through. Fun part will be coming up with a suitable wiring diagram for the car, because dad made some improvements. I believe he said the turn signal switch was modified to have the taillights also function as brake lights; originally they were just turn signals. Also added a hazard light flasher, and that appears to be inop too. Fun times!
 
It sounds like you're making progress.
I wish you the best with your efforts on this family legacy car.
 
Woohoo! Today was the happy day. It runs again! The last attempt to start resulted in a cough and no ignition. Took the distributor out again, cleaned up decades of grime, lightly polished the slip rings, and when I checked the condensers, they measured around 1 microfarad when the spec says they should be 0.3 microfarads. Don't know if that was the kicker, but these condensers are rusty, and the wire insulation was fraying. New condensers arrived yesterday, I polished up the the points again, hooked up the gas can, primed the fuel pump, and SUCCESS!
 
Surprised I've missed this thread!

What an absolute beauty!

What are your long term plans for it? I must admit, I'd be tempted to rewire it completely with a more modern negative body and 12v electrical system. Maybe even slap a modern engine management system on it.
 
No need to mess this beauty up.

Would it though? Aftermarket engine management isn't really like production car management that you're totally locked out of. The software for programming often has nice intuitive GUI's and you're in control of it and everything it does.
 
Surprised I've missed this thread!

What an absolute beauty!

What are your long term plans for it? I must admit, I'd be tempted to rewire it completely with a more modern negative body and 12v electrical system. Maybe even slap a modern engine management system on it.
Thanks!

No, no intention of changing the electrical system. The 6 volt positive ground system has been working fine for the last 77 years, and changing over to 12 volt would be pointless, expensive, and difficult. No benefit IMO. I did find a guy who can rewind Lincoln V-12 starters for more torque, that I might consider. The starter was always a bit on the weak side for as long as I can remember, but I as I noted in an earlier post, cleaning up the connections and replacing the starter solenoid made a big improvement.

Short term is getting things back to working condition and making it driveable again, and replacing some of the old, fraying wiring for safety. Longer term, maybe replace some of the worn out interior carpeting, and see if I can replace the cracking rubber seals around the windows. The chrome really isn't in bad shape, maybe just polish it up. I don't think I'm going to repaint, probably just touch up some places and take care of some rust spots. Absolutely trying to keep things close to original.
 
Pretty filthy working under the rear end of a 77 year old car, but amazingly, the fuel tank came out without too much fuss. Dad had put a trailer hitch on a long time ago, and the hitch ran under the tank. Well, not planning to tow anything with it, but the hitch had to come off to get the tank out. Bolts were rusty, but surprisingly, they all came out. Just 3 bolts holding the tank in place, the fuel line came off like it was installed last week! :pLoosened the screw holding the screw holding the sender wire on, and boom, it's out! I'm thinking some treatment with some Evapo-Rust, a thorough washing, and a POR15 coating.

gas tank.webp
 
Progress on the fuel tank. It was pretty rusty inside, and it reeked of stale gas. Strangely, I never found the brass float for the old sender, but the sender itself was pretty rusty, and the arm had actually rusted through and fallen off inside the tank. My guess is the old float just rusted away completely. Fortunately, I found a replacement sender. Found some recommendations for Rust911, which you can buy in concentrate to make 16 gallons of solution. Tried that on a whim, because a couple gallons of vinegar made a lot of progress, but it was going to take a lot more to try to get the rust out of the rest of the tank. All I can say is WOW! That stuff worked wonders! Wish I could get a good picture of the inside of the tank, but you can see where it took the rust off part of the old sender. It's not perfect, but it's way better than it was before. Now on to the fuel line, which had a leaky compression fitting at the fuel pump. Found some replacement Ford fuel line fittings, so more parts on the way!

sender1.webp


sender2.webp
 
Today's progress, fixing the leaky fuel line. Though I got it started, it had a leak from the compression fitting on the fuel pump. Looks like dad had replaced the fuel pump, but perhaps re-used the compression rings. Tried getting the rings off, and they had been squeezed tight on to the pipe. So, cut off kinked ends of the pipe, get some new threaded fittings and compression rings, and no more fuel leak. Also found I had a couple loose hose clamps on the radiator hoses, so no more coolant leak either. Started it again today, and the carb is going to need some attention. Running very lean, and it stalls if I turn the choke off. Also turns out I have an exhaust leak on the left side manifold. But in a strange happenstance, despite all the electrical problems I have to address, one fixed itself. The driver's side courtesy light started working again.
fuel line.webp
 
I had planned to get the gas tank back in, but despite sloshing it with WD-40 after the rust removal, I was sloshing it with some gas to rinse out whatever crud was left in it and... It came out brown. Yep, there's are a couple new rust spots on the bottom. I did take some time to test the new fuel sender though, and good news to report there.
fuel.webp
 
Well, it was a learning experience, but I got 'er done. Turns out tanks that have rusted will just continue to rust and rust. I threw a box of wood screws in along with a couple gallons of vinegar, and got lots of crud out after shaking it up. Sticking my borescope in, the sides and the top were another story. So, a visit to Sam's club to pick up 20 gallons of vinegar and a big bag of baking soda. Plugged up the fuel outlet, and used the old sender to cap off the top of the tank. After propping it up and filling it completely, I let it sit for a couple days. Now THAT'S the way to get it, I got more clumps of rust out of it. Washed it with lots of baking soda and water to neutralize the vinegar and got lots of rust out of it.
tank1.webp


I ordered a POR-15 tank repair kit, and that stuff did some more wonders. The degreaser actually got rid of the last of the old gas smell, and their metal prep solution left the inside looking very nice. Took lots of rinsing, and some help from the wife to slosh the tank to rinse it out, but finally, no more rusty flakes coming out. Poured in the POR-15 sealer, and got it all sealed up, even covering the baffle I was worried about. Looking very nice inside, so now to wait the 96 hours or so for it to cure. I'm tired.
tank2.webp
tank3.webp
 
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