Hi, I have a 2018 Yamaha Eluder motorcycle. Yamaha calls for a range of viscosity of Yamalube mineral oil. I inadvertently put in 15W-50 full synthetic. Yamaha calls for changing oil/filter every 4,000 miles. I do that religiously. I am wondering for both availability and cost, what risk do I expose the engine to if I convert back to mineral oil? Thanks, Will
Convert from Synthetic back to Mineral?
- Thread starter wilbur4s
- Start date
Welcome to bitog Wilbur.
It's metal not flesh so nothing will happen, it can't get withdrawals. Use anything you want that is within spec. Many use rotella t4 15w-40 even though it's not officially licensed as a jaso oil but they still say great things about it.
It's metal not flesh so nothing will happen, it can't get withdrawals. Use anything you want that is within spec. Many use rotella t4 15w-40 even though it's not officially licensed as a jaso oil but they still say great things about it.
Here are a few previous threads on this oft-asked topic. Although some are moving in the opposite direction the principle is the same in terms of exposing the engine to "risk".
As far as other attributes go (JASO license, etc.) that is independent of the base stock composition.
As far as other attributes go (JASO license, etc.) that is independent of the base stock composition.
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No. The API license (more specifically ASTM D6922) guarantee miscibility.
Whoever told you that, doesn't know what they're talking about.
Imagine the actual "piles of failed engines" that would cause.
Foaming is the most common compatibility problem with different oils. It has nothing to do with mineral vs synthetic oil though. It has to do with compatibility of different anti-foaming additives. It's not a common problem though and I wouldn't worry about it.
There is no going back. You need to stay a synthetic junkie for life now.
Understanding synthetics means more refined crude to remove less desirable
elements from dirty oil until what’s left is mostly higher-performing
molecular structures.
Synthetics were invented to give owners advantages conventional oils could not... however
technically speaking both mineral and synthetics will meet and exceed your mileage expectations...
Manufacture synthetic goals...
Higher viscosity index
Better viscosity stability at varied temperatures
Better chemical and shear stability
Consistent fluidity
Better lubricity at low temperatures
Faster lubrication at start-up in low temperatures
Resistance to oxidation (thickening), thermal breakdown, and oil sludge problem
Excellent protection at high temperatures
Engine cleanliness
Outstanding protection against harmful deposits
Cleaner running engines
Lower oil evaporation
More engine power
Lower maintenance cost
elements from dirty oil until what’s left is mostly higher-performing
molecular structures.
Synthetics were invented to give owners advantages conventional oils could not... however
technically speaking both mineral and synthetics will meet and exceed your mileage expectations...
Manufacture synthetic goals...
Higher viscosity index
Better viscosity stability at varied temperatures
Better chemical and shear stability
Consistent fluidity
Better lubricity at low temperatures
Faster lubrication at start-up in low temperatures
Resistance to oxidation (thickening), thermal breakdown, and oil sludge problem
Excellent protection at high temperatures
Engine cleanliness
Outstanding protection against harmful deposits
Cleaner running engines
Lower oil evaporation
More engine power
Lower maintenance cost
Understanding synthetics means more refined crude to remove less desirable
elements from dirty oil until what’s left is mostly higher-performing
molecular structures.
Synthetics were invented to give owners advantages conventional oils could not... however
technically speaking both mineral and synthetics will meet and exceed your mileage expectations...
Manufacture synthetic goals...
Higher viscosity index
Better viscosity stability at varied temperatures
Better chemical and shear stability
Consistent fluidity
Better lubricity at low temperatures
Faster lubrication at start-up in low temperatures
Resistance to oxidation (thickening), thermal breakdown, and oil sludge problem
Excellent protection at high temperatures
Engine cleanliness
Outstanding protection against harmful deposits
Cleaner running engines
Lower oil evaporation
More engine power
Lower maintenance cost
So according to the graph, power increases dramatically using mineral oil. Alright!!!
Oh no! Not the marbles. That's a fine example of deep understanding of hydrodynamic lubrication. 
It's pretty clear to me that's the case lol
All these years seeing those posted and re-posted graphs, it finally became clear: Mineral oil dramatically increases power!!!!!!!!!!!!
Exactly. I was going to comment on the poster’s little ball picture but you beat me to it.Oh no! Not the marbles. That's a fine example of deep understanding of hydrodynamic lubrication.
That bike seems like a perfect application for M1, 15W-50 synthetic.
As you said, the Yamaha owners manual calls for a wide viscosity range so it's probably pretty tolerant. Also your bike is newer and running synthetic won't cause problems. Also Yamaha makes good bikes. I would run what's in it for a normal service interval and then change back to mineral oil if it makes you feel better.
Unless the price of synthetic is an issue, I'd stick with it. Also make sure its JASO rated, or use the Rotella mentioned below which a lot of bikers use.
I don't mean to be comparing Banana's to Coconuts, but the manual for my Kawasaki voyager with a 1700 cc engine says you can run any type of oil in it. Mineral, blend, or synthetic. It gives the wt spec and jaso spec for the oil. They don't recommend any particular brand of oil, but they do sell a Kawasaki branded oil at the dealer. I wouldn't be concerned over who makes the oil for any given engine, but stick with the recommended wt they say to use. My manual says 10w40 is what they recommend for just about any situation, altho you could go heavier if you ride in extreme area's like maybe Las Vegas in summer.,,
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