When I did the valve lash on my 120k CRV, all on dino...it was spotless.
Got any pics of sludge Honda engines from dino at 5k?
Got any pics of sludge Honda engines from dino at 5k?
Considering Synthetic...question?
- Thread starter mrbanhbao
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Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
When I did the valve lash on my 120k CRV, all on dino...it was spotless.
Got any pics of sludge Honda engines from dino at 5k?
got any pics of your spotless 120 k engine and can prove it's yours and time done?
When I did the valve lash on my 120k CRV, all on dino...it was spotless.
Got any pics of sludge Honda engines from dino at 5k?
got any pics of your spotless 120 k engine and can prove it's yours and time done?
Use the search function.
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Use the search function.
do i have too?
Use the search function.
do i have too?
Also IF synthetic is better at sludge control/cleaning etc then why would the synthetic king, and long drain expert say not to extend those engines known to sludge ? If synthetic was better then I just can't wrap my head around the reason they recommend the same exact OCI as conventional.. and you will notice many of the manufactures such as Honda etc do the same you can use synthetic if you wish, however you must still change your oil at the schedule shown for conventional... hmm maybe they know something we don't ?
There's a lot of back-slapping involved in both using synthetic oil and following oem intervals. Few people seem to actually know better or be able to think about it themselves.
BMW is a fine example. The engines do great on conventional 10w40 and 15w40, even 10w30 if climate and driving allows it. Most owners swear by the oem service because that's what they are told and they are too cheap to pay for the extra service. Well, they's be better served DIY service at half the intervals with dino. Just look at the starting TBN on some HD oils, they are as high as BMW synthetic.
7500 verses 15000 intervals is the comparison here. If someone is hammering their BMW with the oil at 13 or 14 thousand miles on it and thinking they are doing the best possible services, they are not.
BMW is a fine example. The engines do great on conventional 10w40 and 15w40, even 10w30 if climate and driving allows it. Most owners swear by the oem service because that's what they are told and they are too cheap to pay for the extra service. Well, they's be better served DIY service at half the intervals with dino. Just look at the starting TBN on some HD oils, they are as high as BMW synthetic.
7500 verses 15000 intervals is the comparison here. If someone is hammering their BMW with the oil at 13 or 14 thousand miles on it and thinking they are doing the best possible services, they are not.
Originally Posted By: rclint
Also IF synthetic is better at sludge control/cleaning etc then why would the synthetic king, and long drain expert say not to extend those engines known to sludge ?
to cover there [censored] !!!
Also IF synthetic is better at sludge control/cleaning etc then why would the synthetic king, and long drain expert say not to extend those engines known to sludge ?
to cover there [censored] !!!
daman just so ya know I didn't single ya out going after you, it's a good debate for me... I for one am on the conventional side when it comes to best bang for the buck, as well as it doing as good a job as synthetics as long as the manufacture does not spec a synthetic for turbo or similar etc.. It is an eye opener just to stand back looking at it from a purely scientific point of view.. (not paper) and from my gathering of information conventional set at OEM intervals work best.. I step outside this zone due to my long work commute, but that is a risk I'm taking and I also atone that risk with a synthetic oil.. But if I were working local, had some local "women LOL" I would not even hunt for synthetic sale oil it would have to look for me, set a 6 month or 1 year OCI and have a life again.
Quote:
BMW is a fine example. The engines do great on conventional 10w40 and 15w40, even 10w30 if climate and driving allows it. Most owners swear by the oem service because that's what they are told and they are too cheap to pay for the extra service. Well, they's be better served DIY service at half the intervals with dino. Just look at the starting TBN on some HD oils, they are as high as BMW synth.
I agree with the BMW OCI, however I drive a Honda, and I think Honda has done an outstanding job with the oil interval... AND the filter use by using a filter twice, changing every other oil change... that would = 20k... now I didn't want everyone agreeing with me LOL...
I have been running back to back OCI's on conventional hitting 18k to just over 20k on top tier filters... my big problem now is I don't feel like I get my moneys worth when I change out using synthetic because I have to change the filter at say 13k or so.. but I have not worked up the nerve to push close to 30k on a filter yet even top tier filter.. Maybe worth a post of my own so I don't hijack this thread.
BMW is a fine example. The engines do great on conventional 10w40 and 15w40, even 10w30 if climate and driving allows it. Most owners swear by the oem service because that's what they are told and they are too cheap to pay for the extra service. Well, they's be better served DIY service at half the intervals with dino. Just look at the starting TBN on some HD oils, they are as high as BMW synth.
I agree with the BMW OCI, however I drive a Honda, and I think Honda has done an outstanding job with the oil interval... AND the filter use by using a filter twice, changing every other oil change... that would = 20k... now I didn't want everyone agreeing with me LOL...
I have been running back to back OCI's on conventional hitting 18k to just over 20k on top tier filters... my big problem now is I don't feel like I get my moneys worth when I change out using synthetic because I have to change the filter at say 13k or so.. but I have not worked up the nerve to push close to 30k on a filter yet even top tier filter.. Maybe worth a post of my own so I don't hijack this thread.
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Originally Posted By: daman
syn advantages in any situation...
extended drain capability's Not relavent
better extreme high oil temp protection Not relavent
better deposit control No deposits in my Hondas
better sludge control No sludge in my Hondas
better cold weather performance after 5k, new conventional oil would have better cold capabilities
good cleaning capability's Not relavent
improved MPG capability's No and not after 5k verses new conventional oil
it's all relevant. have you pulled a cover yet and looked?
These are all relevant in a general sense. The specific ones relative from my POV:
-better deposit control
-better sludge control
-better cold weather performance
-better mileage
Someone else using syn might have other reasons. Whichever they are, they are relevant to those of us using it and worth the marginal cost difference. The nice thing about syn is you can also switch back and forth to syn and conventional. Some months of the year enough of the above won't apply for me and those months I will run conventional. Its no longer an either or proposition.
-Spyder
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Originally Posted By: daman
syn advantages in any situation...
extended drain capability's Not relavent
better extreme high oil temp protection Not relavent
better deposit control No deposits in my Hondas
better sludge control No sludge in my Hondas
better cold weather performance after 5k, new conventional oil would have better cold capabilities
good cleaning capability's Not relavent
improved MPG capability's No and not after 5k verses new conventional oil
it's all relevant. have you pulled a cover yet and looked?
These are all relevant in a general sense. The specific ones relative from my POV:
-better deposit control
-better sludge control
-better cold weather performance
-better mileage
Someone else using syn might have other reasons. Whichever they are, they are relevant to those of us using it and worth the marginal cost difference. The nice thing about syn is you can also switch back and forth to syn and conventional. Some months of the year enough of the above won't apply for me and those months I will run conventional. Its no longer an either or proposition.
-Spyder
Oye.
You think synthetic is better after 6k than fresh conventional oil is?
You think synthetic is better after 6k than fresh conventional oil is?
Nope. I don't do extended drains. The 1ZZ-FE is a known oil trasher so its always been changed frequently (since I bought it). For my car, planned OCIs are 5k on syn and 3k on dino. In the months the advantages are outweighed by the costs, I will run dino.
Where I do my own OCs, a big benefit for me is that I will run it longer in the winter than I will dino. This is a plus because I do my own OCs and I do them in the driveway. With a 5k syn OCI I can put it in in Dec and leave it there until April and it'll still be fine when it comes out.
-Spyder
Where I do my own OCs, a big benefit for me is that I will run it longer in the winter than I will dino. This is a plus because I do my own OCs and I do them in the driveway. With a 5k syn OCI I can put it in in Dec and leave it there until April and it'll still be fine when it comes out.
-Spyder
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mrbanhbao
Hey i just joined the forum because i heard this forum is very informative and friendly. Anyways i recently bought a Honda Civic Si 2009 with 13k miles back in April. I just got my oil change and it's regular oil (10w30) in mid august. I want to change it out in about 1000 miles to Pennzoil Ultra or Mobil 1 Extended Performance (5w30). Will there be any problem because im switching from reg to synthetic?
I read that i should slowly switch over like use synthetic blend then to full synthetic (i dont think either of the brands is fully synthetic, maybe group III) right..?
Thanks
mrbanhbao,
You can do the switch any time you want based on the mileage on the ododmeter already. I don't know the grouping of the two brands you mentioned but I trust Mobil 1 myself BUT I'm sure the Pennzoil is excellent synethic too. Choose what ever is on sale and you'll be fine.
Durango
Hey i just joined the forum because i heard this forum is very informative and friendly. Anyways i recently bought a Honda Civic Si 2009 with 13k miles back in April. I just got my oil change and it's regular oil (10w30) in mid august. I want to change it out in about 1000 miles to Pennzoil Ultra or Mobil 1 Extended Performance (5w30). Will there be any problem because im switching from reg to synthetic?
I read that i should slowly switch over like use synthetic blend then to full synthetic (i dont think either of the brands is fully synthetic, maybe group III) right..?
Thanks
mrbanhbao,
You can do the switch any time you want based on the mileage on the ododmeter already. I don't know the grouping of the two brands you mentioned but I trust Mobil 1 myself BUT I'm sure the Pennzoil is excellent synethic too. Choose what ever is on sale and you'll be fine.
Durango
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Nope. -Spyder
My well-founded belief is that once conventional oil goes into service, many of these performance parameters are well degraded. At 5-6k, to continue on when conventional oil is 1/2 the price and can be changed 2x as often for the same money, is silly.
I think a lot of people are not reading what I'm saying thoroughly, and rushing to answer that synthetic is always better.
It's the format we are trained in school, to be the first to raise your hand and rush to an answer, not to wait and listen to the subject until you understand the whole point.
I'll admit that we really DON'T have the data on cold-cranking after 5k or anything like that, but it is indeed part of many test sequences. I've listened to experts here and they say that these issues are real. Deposits and sludge don't happen at 3k on conventional or 6k on synthetic, but stretch that out past 10k and yeah, I'll take conventional at half the interval.
Nope. -Spyder
My well-founded belief is that once conventional oil goes into service, many of these performance parameters are well degraded. At 5-6k, to continue on when conventional oil is 1/2 the price and can be changed 2x as often for the same money, is silly.
I think a lot of people are not reading what I'm saying thoroughly, and rushing to answer that synthetic is always better.
It's the format we are trained in school, to be the first to raise your hand and rush to an answer, not to wait and listen to the subject until you understand the whole point.
I'll admit that we really DON'T have the data on cold-cranking after 5k or anything like that, but it is indeed part of many test sequences. I've listened to experts here and they say that these issues are real. Deposits and sludge don't happen at 3k on conventional or 6k on synthetic, but stretch that out past 10k and yeah, I'll take conventional at half the interval.
Originally Posted By: rclint
daman just so ya know I didn't single ya out going after you, it's a good debate for me... I for one am on the conventional side when it comes to best bang for the buck, as well as it doing as good a job as synthetics as long as the manufacture does not spec a synthetic for turbo or similar etc.. It is an eye opener just to stand back looking at it from a purely scientific point of view.. (not paper) and from my gathering of information conventional set at OEM intervals work best.. I step outside this zone due to my long work commute, but that is a risk I'm taking and I also atone that risk with a synthetic oil.. But if I were working local, had some local "women LOL" I would not even hunt for synthetic sale oil it would have to look for me, set a 6 month or 1 year OCI and have a life again.
thanks for all your info and opinion. Mucho appreciated.
daman just so ya know I didn't single ya out going after you, it's a good debate for me... I for one am on the conventional side when it comes to best bang for the buck, as well as it doing as good a job as synthetics as long as the manufacture does not spec a synthetic for turbo or similar etc.. It is an eye opener just to stand back looking at it from a purely scientific point of view.. (not paper) and from my gathering of information conventional set at OEM intervals work best.. I step outside this zone due to my long work commute, but that is a risk I'm taking and I also atone that risk with a synthetic oil.. But if I were working local, had some local "women LOL" I would not even hunt for synthetic sale oil it would have to look for me, set a 6 month or 1 year OCI and have a life again.
thanks for all your info and opinion. Mucho appreciated.
Originally Posted By: Durango
Originally Posted By: mrbanhbao
Hey i just joined the forum because i heard this forum is very informative and friendly. Anyways i recently bought a Honda Civic Si 2009 with 13k miles back in April. I just got my oil change and it's regular oil (10w30) in mid august. I want to change it out in about 1000 miles to Pennzoil Ultra or Mobil 1 Extended Performance (5w30). Will there be any problem because im switching from reg to synthetic?
I read that i should slowly switch over like use synthetic blend then to full synthetic (i dont think either of the brands is fully synthetic, maybe group III) right..?
Thanks
mrbanhbao,
You can do the switch any time you want based on the mileage on the ododmeter already. I don't know the grouping of the two brands you mentioned but I trust Mobil 1 myself BUT I'm sure the Pennzoil is excellent synethic too. Choose what ever is on sale and you'll be fine.
Durango
haha yeah that was my intended plan. Which ever is cheaper...! but a member has a point, since im just commuting only a few miles a day. Having synthetic is a waste..
Originally Posted By: mrbanhbao
Hey i just joined the forum because i heard this forum is very informative and friendly. Anyways i recently bought a Honda Civic Si 2009 with 13k miles back in April. I just got my oil change and it's regular oil (10w30) in mid august. I want to change it out in about 1000 miles to Pennzoil Ultra or Mobil 1 Extended Performance (5w30). Will there be any problem because im switching from reg to synthetic?
I read that i should slowly switch over like use synthetic blend then to full synthetic (i dont think either of the brands is fully synthetic, maybe group III) right..?
Thanks
mrbanhbao,
You can do the switch any time you want based on the mileage on the ododmeter already. I don't know the grouping of the two brands you mentioned but I trust Mobil 1 myself BUT I'm sure the Pennzoil is excellent synethic too. Choose what ever is on sale and you'll be fine.
Durango
haha yeah that was my intended plan. Which ever is cheaper...! but a member has a point, since im just commuting only a few miles a day. Having synthetic is a waste..
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Nope. -Spyder
My well-founded belief is that once conventional oil goes into service, many of these performance parameters are well degraded. At 5-6k, to continue on when conventional oil is 1/2 the price and can be changed 2x as often for the same money, is silly.
I think a lot of people are not reading what I'm saying thoroughly, and rushing to answer that synthetic is always better.
It's the format we are trained in school, to be the first to raise your hand and rush to an answer, not to wait and listen to the subject until you understand the whole point.
I'll admit that we really DON'T have the data on cold-cranking after 5k or anything like that, but it is indeed part of many test sequences. I've listened to experts here and they say that these issues are real. Deposits and sludge don't happen at 3k on conventional or 6k on synthetic, but stretch that out past 10k and yeah, I'll take conventional at half the interval.
I'm part of the syn camp (but in that portion that switch back and forth as the value of one over the other justifies it), but not part of the extended OCI camp.
I don't pay to have it changed and I enjoy changing it myself - so long as that doesn't entail doing it in Jan or Feb when I freeze my butt off doing it (thus part of the reason for syn in winter - it'll hold up better over a 5k interval in severe service inside an engine well-known for its ability to kick the [censored] out of whatever you put into it).
I also like my oil relatively clean and prefer too frequent to not frequent enough. Oil is cheaper than engines. That's really the bottom line for me, as it gives me piece of mind knowing that the oil condition is never a question mark. Anhd when the added cost of changing it out more frequently than not is rationalized out, it adds up to some very cheap piece of mind.
Those who run long OCIs are free to do so and I'm not here to convert anyone from whatever is working for them (no affiliation or stock in any oil producer). Likewise I won't be persuaded to increase my OCI based on whatever's in the sump and someone else's experience.
I try and maintain an open mind but this is one issue (drain intervals) that its closed to. No matter how many people try and berate me for "wasting" syn because I don't, and never will, run it for 10 or 15k.
-Spyder
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Nope. -Spyder
My well-founded belief is that once conventional oil goes into service, many of these performance parameters are well degraded. At 5-6k, to continue on when conventional oil is 1/2 the price and can be changed 2x as often for the same money, is silly.
I think a lot of people are not reading what I'm saying thoroughly, and rushing to answer that synthetic is always better.
It's the format we are trained in school, to be the first to raise your hand and rush to an answer, not to wait and listen to the subject until you understand the whole point.
I'll admit that we really DON'T have the data on cold-cranking after 5k or anything like that, but it is indeed part of many test sequences. I've listened to experts here and they say that these issues are real. Deposits and sludge don't happen at 3k on conventional or 6k on synthetic, but stretch that out past 10k and yeah, I'll take conventional at half the interval.
I'm part of the syn camp (but in that portion that switch back and forth as the value of one over the other justifies it), but not part of the extended OCI camp.
I don't pay to have it changed and I enjoy changing it myself - so long as that doesn't entail doing it in Jan or Feb when I freeze my butt off doing it (thus part of the reason for syn in winter - it'll hold up better over a 5k interval in severe service inside an engine well-known for its ability to kick the [censored] out of whatever you put into it).
I also like my oil relatively clean and prefer too frequent to not frequent enough. Oil is cheaper than engines. That's really the bottom line for me, as it gives me piece of mind knowing that the oil condition is never a question mark. Anhd when the added cost of changing it out more frequently than not is rationalized out, it adds up to some very cheap piece of mind.
Those who run long OCIs are free to do so and I'm not here to convert anyone from whatever is working for them (no affiliation or stock in any oil producer). Likewise I won't be persuaded to increase my OCI based on whatever's in the sump and someone else's experience.
I try and maintain an open mind but this is one issue (drain intervals) that its closed to. No matter how many people try and berate me for "wasting" syn because I don't, and never will, run it for 10 or 15k.
-Spyder
Spyder, I have to say I'm disappointed!! Not in regards to your "wasting" synthetic oil. Not in regards to your closed mindedness to extended drains with said "wasted" synthetic. But for god sakes man!! You're Canadian!! What's wrong with changing your oil in Jan/Feb????
The fact that I'm on the wrong coast and get to change it then in both rain & snow (probably in the same time interval), rather than just rain or snow 
Lying on your back on a light powder is no fun when the downpour comes and sends a river of cold slush down your pants (gives a whole other meaning to the expression 'blue balls'
-Spyder
Lying on your back on a light powder is no fun when the downpour comes and sends a river of cold slush down your pants (gives a whole other meaning to the expression 'blue balls'
-Spyder
Last edited:
Ya, sounds like fun!! I'm just giving you a hard time brother. Every time I come in from doing a change in the snow at -20 or what ever I call myself a retard for about a half an hour!
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