"Cling"abilty.

[texasproud]

Just bought a Toyota Tacoma V-6. This engine jumps to 1800-2000 rpm at cold start

. Dealer service mgr says this is normal and is designed to do this to aid quicker warm-up and comply with emmisions controls.

I know this is a reliable engine and should outlast me

but I am concerned about excessive cold startup wear due to the high rpm. Is there a difference between synthetic and dino with regards to the oils ability to "cling" to engine parts when cold(overnight) ? I live in central Texas so this may be less of a problem than someone in a colder climate. The truck does not see severe service and is driven approx 10,000 miles annually. What would your oil strategy be ? Thanks for your help.

 

[Drivebelt]

quote:

---

…but I am concerned about excessive cold startup wear due to the high rpm.

---

Really a non-issue as long as the oil is flowing -- and that will realistically never be a problem in Texas. We start engines here in temperatures … way … below freezing in the winter, and as long as the oil hasn’t frozen solid in the oil pan it doesn’t present a problem. The oil on a cold start is also very thick compared to when up to operating temperature, so it provides a thicker oil film when cold too.

As far as synthetics sticking to the metal, this is only true of the Group V ester based synthetics which because of their polarity can stick to metal surfaces. Most synthetics are Grp III or IV because esters are expensive, although, esters are in many cases blended in with the Grp IV for various reasons …

quote:

---

esters

Nevertheless, esters are nearly always used in combination with PAOs in full synthetic motor oils in order to balance the effect on seals, solubilize additives, reduce volatility, and improve energy efficiency through higher lubricity. The percentage of ester used in motor oils can vary anywhere from 5 to 25% depending upon the desired properties and the type of ester employed.

---

 

[TallPaul]

Wouldn't the 1800-2000 rpm initial jump also goose the oil pump into pushing more initial flow?

Anyway, you could always run Redline oil. Plenty of antiwear additives and ester cling base oil.

 

[westex39]

I remember back in the 50's, 60's, and 70's just about all carburated engines ran up to about 1800 rpm on cold start. In those days you would push the gas pedal about half way down and release it. With your foot off the gas pedal you would start the engine. If the fast idle cam on the carburator was set properly the rpm would go to about 1800. After the engine started you would tap the gas pedal and the fast idle cam would drop down to the second step and dropping engine rpm to about 1200. As the engine warmed up the choke stove would let the choke open fully and drop the fast idle cam all the way down. The idle rpm was then controlled by the idle screw. This was usually around 500 to 700 rpm.
Those engines lasted a long time with proper maintenance. The oils were not as good back then either.
I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier with the 4.0 Liter V6. I am not at all concerned about the 2000 rpm startup speed, especially if you are using synthetic oil.

 

[texasproud]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Ray H:
My '03 Hyundai V6 jumps to ~1700 rpm at cold start, but then drops back to ~1200 rpm within ten seconds or so. Initial cold fast idle IS normal in these computer controlled engines. But, you're right, texasproud - you will suffer accelerated wear because of high cold start idle speed. Instead of anticipating at least 375,000 miles before overhaul, you'll probably only achieve 374,975+ miles.

---

OK...based on all comments, I feel better about the cold start idle not being a problem.

Can you guys make a recommendation for a syn blend oil that would serve well in this engine for 5K OCIs? I believe a pure syn is overkill for the amount of miles I drive(10k/yr). I noted in the UOA section that the 4.0 does well on M1 & Havoline but I did not see a blend that stood out. Thanks again.

 

[va3ux]

My Intrepid w/ 2.7L V6 also jumps up to around 1500 to 1800 rpm for a few seconds during real cold starts in winter. In summer time, it only jumps to around 1000 to 1100 for a few seconds.

 

[bighead]

quote:

---

Originally posted by texasproud:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Ray H:
My '03 Hyundai V6 jumps to ~1700 rpm at cold start, but then drops back to ~1200 rpm within ten seconds or so. Initial cold fast idle IS normal in these computer controlled engines. But, you're right, texasproud - you will suffer accelerated wear because of high cold start idle speed. Instead of anticipating at least 375,000 miles before overhaul, you'll probably only achieve 374,975+ miles.

---

OK...based on all comments, I feel better about the cold start idle not being a problem.

Can you guys make a recommendation for a syn blend oil that would serve well in this engine for 5K OCIs? I believe a pure syn is overkill for the amount of miles I drive(10k/yr). I noted in the UOA section that the 4.0 does well on M1 & Havoline but I did not see a blend that stood out. Thanks again.

---

No need for a syn blend. You mentioned Havoline works good in your engine....there's your answer right there

 

[carock]

Blend Redline and Havoline. Redline has a lot of ester in it, and a good additive pack.

 

[CBDFrontier06]

If memory serves, I believe it was older Mobil 1 commercials that claimed to reduce startup friction because it 'bonded' to surfaces. Later, Castrol Syntec jumped on the bandwagon and ran Syntec in a 1981 vintage Camaro, drained it, and drove the car around a racetrack with a dry pan, claiming 'metal bonding' of its friction reducers.

My 2006 Frontier does the same thing your truck does..spikes straight to 2000 rpms at startup and for the first 1-2 seconds, I can hear the dry cam against the lifters. I've asked around in several forums and the majority opinion is that it's normal and the cam/lifters won't be harmed by this. My ears tell a different story, and I find myself wishing it wouldn't run so fast at startup...but whatyagonnado? I'm still breaking in this engine, so I haven't converted to Mobil 1 yet, but I'm hoping this noise gets better on a diet of full syn.

 

[Quest]

LOL! You belong to one of those "low idle/coldstart RPM crowd" that I'm aware of.

1800~2500rpm during initial cold start is IMHO, nothing.

 

[Ray H]

My '03 Hyundai V6 jumps to ~1700 rpm at cold start, but then drops back to ~1200 rpm within ten seconds or so. Initial cold fast idle IS normal in these computer controlled engines. But, you're right, texasproud - you will suffer accelerated wear because of high cold start idle speed. Instead of anticipating at least 375,000 miles before overhaul, you'll probably only achieve 374,975+ miles.

 

[psudaytona]

Castrol StartUp claims to deal with this sort of "startup stress". It has esters in it that cling to the metal. Its usually on sale at your local pepboys for around 2.50 a quart.

 

[jorton]

I think you are asking for an oil that doesn't run off moving parts as soon as you park the truck, when oil is still hot and thin.

I have noticed 2 oils that feel very sticky compared to regular 10w30. Valvoline 20w-50 racing oil and Mobil 1 15w-50. Just don't know a 5w30 that feels like that. Check the Havoline.