Classic car guys, what you running?

[jongies3]

I've currently got Pennzoil conventional 10W-30 in the crankcase of my Mustang. It has a new, remanned engine under the hood. I broke it in with Valvoline 10W-30, and a bottle of Lucas zinc additive, which was recommended in the break in instructions. They indicated I could safely make the switch to synthetics after 5000 miles. Is it best to keep running the conventional or switch to synthetic? Money isn't a problem, the car isn't driven much and will probably only see a change once every year or two depending on mileage. I've been considering Rotella T6, PUP 0W-40, and Castrol Edge 5W-50.
Those of you that have an older classic car with a flat tappet cam, what are you running and what do you recommend I do with mine? This will also apply to my older Ford Broncos I have as well.

 

[ragtoplvr]

Your builder should have told you which oil weight range the engine has clearances set around, XX30 xx40 or xx50. XXW40 shell rotella is a good compromise. If you know it is tight, then 10W 30 diesel oil. Personally when they sit long times, I think 20W50 motorcycle oil is good.

I use Valvoline VR1 20W50 oe Shell Rotella 5W40 myself.

 

[CharBaby]

I've been running either MaxLife or DEFY 5W30 in my Firebird. 10W30's are always a consideration as well.

 

[dlundblad]

Define older Ford bronco.. What year are we talking? You should probably post photos so we can be sure to give you the correct oil suggestions.

I second VR1. They have 20w50 and 10w30 as well as straight weights. It's not for extended use in vehicles with cats so I am not sure what this would do to the bronco depending on the year.

 

[Red91]

VR1 SAE 30 or Delo 400 SAE 30 are my votes. Maybe BrocLuno will weigh in on this topic. His input should be held in high regard.

I like a monograde 30 for the fact that you won't have any shear(no viscosity index improvers) and typically they contain between 1000 to 1300 ppm of zinc and 1000 to 1150 ppm of phosphorus, which seems to be the sweet spot for stock to mildly aggressive flat tappet cam grinds.

Since the car may sit for extended periods, SAE 30 will stay in the ringbelt longer, preventing rust and cylinder wall scoring upon startup.

 

[Trav]

I have used Rotella T6 5w40 with a bottle of Rislone Zinc additive 4405 every OCI in a old nail head Buick (not mine) for a long time with no cam wear issues. Its seems a good combination for old timers rebuilt or not


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/rislo...4405/10380239-P

 

[Rudy1999 250]

Schaeffers 20W50 Racing oil. I realize a 66 mustang with a semi- built 289 may not be a major Racing engine. The fact that it is usually ran on warmer days and is a old school flat tappet cam. I sample the oil and have had great results.

 

[Alex_V]

Replaced the cam in my '67 Suburban's 350 (bought the engine with a 3/4 cam in an otherwise stock engine - yuck!) and broke it in with VWB 10w30 plus Lucas break-in additive. 500 mi. later I switched to Maxlife + 1/2 bottle of Rislone ZDDP additive, then after 1 yr. and about 2,800 miles I went back to VWB and used the rest of the Rislone. No complaints so far.

 

[FCD]

I think Valvoline VR1 10w30 would be perfect for your Mustang.
I will also be switching to VR1 20W-50 for my Capri soon.
VR1 is a good oil for classic cars , it has enough zddp for any flat tappet camshaft , a good dose of friction modifiers and not too many detergents so it will be kind to your gaskets and seals.

 

[Trotter]

Canadian tire 10w-30 syn with Quaker state oil filter.

 

[vronline]

Rotella T5 10w-30 or T6 5w-40... No additives needed.

 

[mazdamonky]

My vote is just to use a good quality oil. I tend to gravitate toward synthetics due to rebates. A good 5w30 should work great! currently using 10w30 durablend in my flat tappet 302 from an early fox body. After that, I will probably use either Napa Synthetic 5w30 as it can be had at a good price all of the time or Valvoline Maxlife/Maxlife Synthetic. However I would have no qualms with using any name brand 5w30 oil in that motor. I would expect none of them to cause the engine any harm.

 

[Bud]

In my 71 MGB I run VR1 20w50.

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: jongies3
They indicated I could safely make the switch to synthetics after 5000 miles.


Comments like this should raise red flags...

 

[bigt61]

Originally Posted By: vronline
Rotella T5 10w-30 or T6 5w-40... No additives needed.

+1 Or M1 15W-50 - 0W-40 ...both should be fine. Unless it's really high lift w lots of spring pressure, what you're running should be fine.

 

[propuckstopper]

Amsoil Z-Rod 10W-30.

Both cars originally spec'd for 10W-30.

 

[bunnspecial]

I like VR-1 across the board. The ZDDP content is good, it's available in a variety of weights, and it's available at most decently stocked auto parts stores.

I run VR-1 20W-50 in my MGB, but I'd go with the weight your engine builder suggests.

My carburetors get VR-1 SAE 60

 

[CrAlt]

I am running the older CJ-4 Rotella T5 10w30. When when my stockpile is done I will switch over to VR1 unless they too go to SN rating.

I am building a motor now and just broke down and got roller lifters so I don't have to worry about zinc anymore.

 

[BrocLuno]

OK, you are in Montana and that can get right cold in winter ... So is this car being driven in winter? Will it sit overnight at say the airport or something?

When you rebuilt the engine, did you'all install a high volume oil pump? Cast or forged pistons? What kind of cam (I assume flat tappet ...). Who's lifters? What kind of valve spring pressures? King Bearing rods/mains, or Clevite? You get the idea ... We need a bit more info?

Does this car/engine sit for extended periods of time - say a week, or a month? The reason I ask is because real synthetics tend to have lower surface tension (in part, that's how they get their lower W rating) so they tend to drain off over time. They still leave a film, but not a very robust one. Dino oils tend to have better capillary fill and cushion better on cold start after sitting. You'll know the first time you start it after sitting if it has say Mobil 1. It'll tell if it's not happy going that way right off the bat ...

VR-1 Silver Bottle (street) is always a good choice. If not sitting out in winter, SAE 30 HD is also a good choice. It has been shown to reduce upper cylinder wear on cold start over some multis - especially carb'd engines.

I'm quite happy with Delo 400 15W-30 SD (severe duty) as it has a good add pak and seems to have excellent base oils. But it might not be right for the bearing clearances, depending on how this engine was set up ...

I'd have no reservation running Maxlife blend either, as it's become the new VR-1 out here. Only caveat would be high spring pressures and not running Crower Camsaver Lifters ... If more than 300# over the nose with plain lifters, I'd prolly not run Maxlife (not enough zinc). With Camsavers or EDM solids, no problem.

Bunch of variables here, so fill in the blanks and we can go from there

 

[jongies3]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
OK, you are in Montana and that can get right cold in winter ... So is this car being driven in winter? Will it sit overnight at say the airport or something?

When you rebuilt the engine, did you'all install a high volume oil pump? Cast or forged pistons? What kind of cam (I assume flat tappet ...). Who's lifters? What kind of valve spring pressures? King Bearing rods/mains, or Clevite? You get the idea ... We need a bit more info?

Does this car/engine sit for extended periods of time - say a week, or a month? The reason I ask is because real synthetics tend to have lower surface tension (in part, that's how they get their lower W rating) so they tend to drain off over time. They still leave a film, but not a very robust one. Dino oils tend to have better capillary fill and cushion better on cold start after sitting. You'll know the first time you start it after sitting if it has say Mobil 1. It'll tell if it's not happy going that way right off the bat ...

VR-1 Silver Bottle (street) is always a good choice. If not sitting out in winter, SAE 30 HD is also a good choice. It has been shown to reduce upper cylinder wear on cold start over some multis - especially carb'd engines.

I'm quite happy with Delo 400 15W-30 SD (severe duty) as it has a good add pak and seems to have excellent base oils. But it might not be right for the bearing clearances, depending on how this engine was set up ...

I'd have no reservation running Maxlife blend either, as it's become the new VR-1 out here. Only caveat would be high spring pressures and not running Crower Camsaver Lifters ... If more than 300# over the nose with plain lifters, I'd prolly not run Maxlife (not enough zinc). With Camsavers or EDM solids, no problem.

Bunch of variables here, so fill in the blanks and we can go from there

Not being driven in winter, but I do my best to go start it at least once a month and warm it up, charge the battery and such.

Here's the remanned engine it has in it and specs: http://www.high-performance-engines.com/ford-351w-mid-dress-engine-385hp-p/hp11m.htm

Here's a pic or two of the car!