Which level of Mevotech. There are three.Melvotech control arm Mazda 6 1 did not fit, next 2 bad within a year, went Moog, 3 years ago
For myself, l would be concerned going aftermarket on that kind of repair but l also have been impressed with the quality of manufacturing from Taiwan. Please keep us updated.I just installed a HJL (Taiwan) timing set (chain, cam phasers, chain guides and tensioner) in a Toyota 2AR engine. So far it's just as good as the OEM Toyota stuff except it's 150k miles newer.
I used the Mevotech, Supreme line for front lower control arms for my Honda and they have been fine now for ~15k miles.Which level of Mevotech. There are three.
Thanks that's good to know. I see their website calls them TTX, Supreme, and Original Grade. But I'd be surprised if their Original Grade is equal to OEM?Which level of Mevotech. There are three.
Correct. Original line is just to get it back on the road. Supreme if you plan to keep it.Thanks that's good to know. I see their website calls them TTX, Supreme, and Original Grade. But I'd be surprised if their Original Grade is equal to OEM?
Show me cheap and high quality parts.That was true until companies like Timken, Moog, Raybestos (RIP, maybe), Fail-Pro etc sold out.
Now, yeah, there's still low quality and high quality but I don't wanna pay Timken $200 for a $50 Chinese wheel bearing assy
Sometimes I run a little 'stock' and have been burned once or twice because of sitting on the shelf and long out of any warranty.Got burned on in tank fuel pump. Sparta (Delphi) pump on clearance, paid for installation, it pumped but no sender to indicate level.
Got burned on an A/C dryer, four seasons on clearance, paid for evac and recharge. Leaked due to bad welds. Past 30 day return window.
Go burned on multifunction switch on clearance, again missed 30 day return window.
Those are the only fails in purchasing non-oem parts last 20 years. Maintain 9 vehicles.
I forgot to mention my awful VEMO experience.I suppose I’ve had mixed luck overall when I’ve cheaped out.
I put a GSP CV axle on the wife’s Q5, it’s been holding up well and gets driven a lot. Cost was around a hundred bucks.
The Napa water pump I put in my old 6.0 Chevy box truck had the most absolutely atrocious looking casting I have ever seen. I would have returned it for being such a painfully ugly piece of crap if I didn’t need it RIGHT NOW. It’s been in for a couple years now with many miles, still pumping along.
The Oreilly alternator and radiator in the same box truck are doing well too. Both of those were right now kinda deals too.
One that didn’t work out was some absolute crap aftermarket DISA valve I bought for a BMW N52. It lasted about a week. The engine was very close to ingesting the flapper valve and shaft from it! Almost a very expensive lesson.
Also a passenger side motor mount from carquest for a Ford Focus. Holy crap it vibrated worse than the worn out original one. I returned it and got an OEM one.
I generally always use OEM parts for the very problems you stated. Its not worth saving $$ on parts.I am curious how many people regret putting the cheapest parts on their cars. There is the tension between "you get what you pay for" but also people don't want to pay more than necessary. My nephews 2011 CR-V (now mine) has had so many things wrong with it. I thought l did my due diligence but it got me good.
I am grateful for everyone willing to experiment and put cheap parts on their cars so the rest of can also benefit.
The CRV driver side CV axle is bad and l am going with a trakmotive, it needs brake calipers(cheapest new eBay), l replacing the defective AC compressor with a Denso, and a belt tensioner with a Litens. I am also replacing brakes and gaskets but l am going with oem on the gaskets and wagner for the brakes/rotors.
All experiences welcomed and appreciated.
The only one I can vouch for personally is those Harbor Freight Predator 212 cc engines. 99 bucks on sale (in the old days) and they function well and are quite durable.Show me cheap and high quality parts.
Paco