Cheap Part Regret/Success

I generally always use OEM parts for the very problems you stated. Its not worth saving $$ on parts.
This strategy has worked great for all my Japanese cars (Toyotas and a few Mazdas) but that's only because you don't tend to replace a lot of parts.

When I got my first German car I learned that the situation is different. Not only are OEM parts even MORE of a bad deal (more expensive AND they don't last) but there are way more aftermarket manufacturers that make decent parts. It's also easy to identify who made the original part and just buy it direct from them. I would buy Denso parts for my Toyotas but it didn't seem like they were always available for every part I needed to buy. But again, I drove Toyotas and Mazdas until I was in my mid-30s and didn't really replace that many parts!
 
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Couple shots of the aforementioned Febest lateral arm. Fitment was great and it felt at least as thick as the original piece, with good quality powder coating (or perhaps e-coat paint?). 100% worth the $29.
 
I wanted to give an update on my eBay brake calipers. I just received them. I attempted to put them on today... Some of you will feel vindicated that after about 30 minutes try to install them, l found the gap to be too small. :ROFLMAO: The gap original was 67 mm and the ones l got were 60 mm.

I am going to send them back and pick up some SKP's from Rock Auto.
 
I hit a big folded cardboard box that a vehicle a lane over kicked up at 60 mph. I ordered an EBay fog/park lamp for the Tesla for $40, OEM was $400+. It looked fine but when I plugged it in, the fog lamp stayed on anytime the headlights were on and the orange park lamp would turn on and off with the fog switch. The seller refunded me without even requesting a return. Now I’m waiting on an $80 lamp to try that as it has better reviews. It’s on the slow boat from China though.

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I recall buying a cheaper cost part at Autozone that actually looked better than the more expensive part. The part was for a part that had broken on the front end. Worked very well and I sold the vehicle with that part still performing well.
 
I just put a Carquest stab link on my daughter’s car today and was crazy impressed. This was their “updated” part and this thing was twice the weight of her oem part.
 
I had an ‘05 Trailblazer that I kept for 17 years before selling it. I replaced a rear taillight assembly and a remote driver’s side mirror with aftermarket parts. The taillight was equal to the OEM and the mirror whistled a bit but was otherwise fine.
 
I put a $30 "A-Premium" Chinese wheel bearing (Amazon) on my kids Toyota Matrix with 260k miles last summer. No regrets - yet, working great 8k miles later.
The old saying '' Pays to Shop around.''.....plus doing some online/in person research. My brother has the 04 Matrix, I was doing tuneups and parts replacement on his car the past 3 years. Only genuine Toyota part I got him was the new PCV valve. I don't buy the cheapest budget crap parts for his or my vehicles, but I use some common sense and I lurk all sorts of Forums (such as this) , I read up, ask questions, see what is on sale, what is a durable reliable part or tool , fluids, filters and do what I think is best with the money I can afford to spend.
Being in Canada, often it makes more sense to order from Rockauto USA, even with the exchange rate and shipping I end up saving money. Plus Rockauto often gives multiple options from Budget spending to middle- Premium.
Currently looking at replacing the pair of rear stabilizer bars on my 20 year old Nissan Xtrail SUV.
Asking too much from the local parts stores in my city.
Rockauto, I can buy a pair of premium rear stabilizer bars in Cnd currency/with shipping and tax....delivered tho my door in three days, cheaper then buying ONE low budget stabilizer bar here.
 
Stant radiator cap: stuck closed and cause a head gasket blown.
CSF all metal radiator: leaking and cause a head gasket blown.
Unknown Rock Auto ignition wire: disintegrated when my OEM Yasaki still works
Cheap valve cover gasket: leak
Cheap exhaust manifold: won't clear oil filter unless I remove the heat shield and throw them away.
 
Stant radiator cap: stuck closed and cause a head gasket blown.
CSF all metal radiator: leaking and cause a head gasket blown.
Unknown Rock Auto ignition wire: disintegrated when my OEM Yasaki still works
Cheap valve cover gasket: leak
Cheap exhaust manifold: won't clear oil filter unless I remove the heat shield and throw them away.
Ouch. You are due for some good luck.
 
Stant radiator cap: stuck closed and cause a head gasket blown.
CSF all metal radiator: leaking and cause a head gasket blown.
Unknown Rock Auto ignition wire: disintegrated when my OEM Yasaki still works
Cheap valve cover gasket: leak
Cheap exhaust manifold: won't clear oil filter unless I remove the heat shield and throw them away.
You ok man?
 
Stant radiator cap: stuck closed and cause a head gasket blown.
CSF all metal radiator: leaking and cause a head gasket blown.
Unknown Rock Auto ignition wire: disintegrated when my OEM Yasaki still works
Cheap valve cover gasket: leak
Cheap exhaust manifold: won't clear oil filter unless I remove the heat shield and throw them away.
That sucks, but just realize, there are also people who have happy positive experiences with generic low budget parts.
Not like they will be bragging and posting about it. They will when things go wrong, for sure.
Not argue with you, ive had both good and bad outcomes.
My worst was a led brake light bulb. Did not know it was Chinese made, lasted 3 days and self destructed.
Replaced with a brand name led bulb, been 8 years and still works fine.
Same with buying pants from Walmart, lol, some low budget jeans were great, others had zippers break, crotch area rip open. Or their crappy shoes and boots.
So i will spend more money and buy better know quality from elsewhere.
 
SIL bought a DirveBolt brand front axle from Rock Auto for his Outback for about $65. I installed it for him. Worked fine for the 15k miles or so before he traded it in. I think I got paid dinner at Cracker Barrel or Famous Dave's.
 
I had a Jeep Wrangler back in 2004 that needed a turn signal switch. Went into Autozone and got a Wells brand for about $65 opened the box and found an OE Chrysler part! Fast forward to 2022 same thing with my Mazda 3. The original switch had a few random numbers on it and so did the Wells that replaced it. Box said made in Japan.

More recently I got a drivers door power window switch for the Mazda from Rockauto under the "famous brands" name. It was a Carquest box again with an OE switch inside. Think I paid $73; that same switch from Mazda dealer parts sites runs 250 to over 300 bucks.
 
That sucks, but just realize, there are also people who have happy positive experiences with generic low budget parts.
Not like they will be bragging and posting about it. They will when things go wrong, for sure.
Not argue with you, ive had both good and bad outcomes.
My worst was a led brake light bulb. Did not know it was Chinese made, lasted 3 days and self destructed.
Replaced with a brand name led bulb, been 8 years and still works fine.
Same with buying pants from Walmart, lol, some low budget jeans were great, others had zippers break, crotch area rip open. Or their crappy shoes and boots.
So i will spend more money and buy better know quality from elsewhere.
I learned to use better quality stuff (OEM or OEM sourced 3rd party like Denso, Aisin, 555, etc) for the more critical parts that can cause other damages, like radiator cap, water pump, radiator, etc. Ignition isn't that big of a deal on 4 cylinder but I would not buy cheap plugs of questionable quality or quality source (Amazon and eBay) if it is a FWD V6.
 
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You get what you pay for. Never cheap out on parts. Sometimes, in rare instances, a cheaper aftermarket part will be of comparable or better quality however.
 
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