Cheap Part Regret/Success

[amateurbob]

I am curious how many people regret putting the cheapest parts on their cars. There is the tension between "you get what you pay for" but also people don't want to pay more than necessary. My nephews 2011 CR-V (now mine) has had so many things wrong with it. I thought l did my due diligence but it got me good.

I am grateful for everyone willing to experiment and put cheap parts on their cars so the rest of can also benefit.

The CRV driver side CV axle is bad and l am going with a trakmotive, it needs brake calipers(cheapest new eBay), l replacing the defective AC compressor with a Denso, and a belt tensioner with a Litens. I am also replacing brakes and gaskets but l am going with oem on the gaskets and wagner for the brakes/rotors.

All experiences welcomed and appreciated.

 

[dadto2]

I put a Dorman purge vent valve on my beater Kia, it's held for 2 years so far. I figure that's a win.

 

[KrisZ]

I got an excellent set of cheap, can’t remember the name, brake pads years ago that performed very well, were quiet and dusted little. I think they were $20 Canadian or something like that.

Besides brakes, I’ve used plenty of other aftermarket parts with success, but they never lasted as long as OEM and I never expected them to match OEM. They were the definition of “good enough”.

 

[Zee09]

I tried one of these....I worried about it as I was a Ultra user....
Later it became a BITOG favorite

 

[JoeDirt41]

I used a really cheap rear suspension rebuild kit from 1A Auto for the 2006 Lacrosse I used to have. Came with all the control arms, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, I think some other stuff. It all worked well and lasted a few years until I sold and was just fine then.

I have super cheap Bosch Blue brake pads on my 97 Accord and they quite good. Minimal dust, decent stopping power, no noise.

Put a really cheap Cardone reman CV axle on the same Accord. It’s still tight and holding up just fine.

I used Carquest-brand ignition coils on my sister’s 2011 CR-V. In less than a year, one had failed. I’d call that a fail.

Tried a Dorman parking brake cable on a 1995 F150 I had. Broke 2 of them within a month. Switched to a different brand and had no issues.

I know I’ve got more experiences, I just can’t think of them all right now.

 

[amateurbob]

I tried one of these....I worried about it as I was a Ultra user....
Later it became a BITOG favorite

View attachment 327947

I purchased Parts Plus oil filters for same reason.

 

[Capt W]

While I typically steer clear of cheap (often third-world) parts, there are times when their use may be acceptable to me as a cost-saving measure. My criteria are 1) easy to access and repair, and 2) not a key part of a vital system on the vehicle.

An example of the first might be a front engine mount. On most cars they take literally 4-5 minutes to swap and might cost 75% less than OEM. Sure, they're not the same quality, but they're cheap & easy to swap. On the other hand, there's no way I'm using a cheap offshore part for something that might take hours to access and repair. Those are jobs I want to do only once.

Examples of my second criteria are major electronic components, oiling system components (like oil pumps, external oil filter adapters, etc.), and almost any brake parts. "Good enough" is a non-starter when dealing with calipers and other parts on which lives may depend. I'll never do it.

Your CRV list is interesting as you list two el-cheapo parts (Trakmotive and ebay calipers) along with two OEMs - Denso and Litens.

I have to add that in the name of thriftiness (and getting a better result) I started rebuilding my CV axles about 10 years ago. It seems many people replace them just because of ruptured boots. If you have the knowledge to pull a CV axle, you have the ability to disassemble it, clean it, lube it, and re-boot it. It's actually an easy and satisfying job that costs a little extra time, but a lot less than a new axle (especially when many of the "new" axles are Chinese- or Indian-made trash.

 

[crashz]

I've had some real stinkers and some good surprises. Probably a 50/50 mix. Funny, usually on a CRV because I didn't mind cheaping out on my own daily. With cheap parts you have to make the mental risk calculation of repairing again and replacing with a quality part. So I usually gambled with parts that had lower consequence of failure (ie window motor, trim, shocks, etc). If I needed it to get home or it was a massive undertaking repair (alternator or coolant pipe on a CRV), I ponied up for the name brand or OE parts.

 

[Number_35]

In December I installed a GSP front drive axle on a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe.

The owner is an elderly widow who needs a vehicle but doesn't drive a lot. I'm guessing under 10,000 km per year, maybe even less than 5,000. Basically in-town for church and groceries.

The price was good (not much over C$100), the fit was perfect, and the vehicle drives fine. So far, so good.

 

[amateurbob]

While I typically steer clear of cheap (often third-world) parts, there are times when their use may be acceptable to me as a cost-saving measure. My criteria are 1) easy to access and repair, and 2) not a key part of a vital system on the vehicle.

An example of the first might be a front engine mount. On most cars they take literally 4-5 minutes to swap and might cost 75% less than OEM. Sure, they're not the same quality, but they're cheap & easy to swap. On the other hand, there's no way I'm using a cheap offshore part for something that might take hours to access and repair. Those are jobs I want to do only once.

Examples of my second criteria are major electronic components, oiling system components (like oil pumps, external oil filter adapters, etc.), and almost any brake parts. "Good enough" is a non-starter when dealing with calipers and other parts on which lives may depend. I'll never do it.

Your CRV list is interesting as you list two el-cheapo parts (Trakmotive and ebay calipers) along with two OEMs - Denso and Litens.

I have to add that in the name of thriftiness (and getting a better result) I started rebuilding my CV axles about 10 years ago. It seems many people replace them just because of ruptured boots. If you have the knowledge to pull a CV axle, you have the ability to disassemble it, clean it, lube it, and re-boot it. It's actually an easy and satisfying job that costs a little extra time, but a lot less than a new axle (especially when many of the "new" axles are Chinese- or Indian-made trash.

I tend to follow your criteria to a "T". With the CV axle l would have attempted to rebuild it but l think it is damaged beyond repair. It's not leaking nor is the boot torn but there is a tremendous amount of play (where none exists in the other side) and the car "wobbles" hard when l turn and accelerate. I have heard surprisingly good things about trakmotive lately and l could not find a consensus on a better aftermarket part.

I make a substantial effort to put quality parts on the vehicle but like you said, l don't mind risking it if the part is easy to access.

 

[cudavid]

Melvotech control arm Mazda 6 1 did not fit, next 2 bad within a year, went Moog, 3 years ago

 

[Capt W]

I tend to follow your criteria to a "T". With the CV axle l would have attempted to rebuild it but l think it is damaged beyond repair. It's not leaking nor is the boot torn but there is a tremendous amount of play (where none exists in the other side) and the car "wobbles" hard when l turn and accelerate. I have heard surprisingly good things about trakmotive lately and l could not find a consensus on a better aftermarket part.

I make a substantial effort to put quality parts on the vehicle but like you said, l don't mind risking it if the part is easy to access.

For sure...if the joint is sloppy, clicky, or excessively worn you have no choice but to replace. I have no real issue with cheap CV axles, as most of them are really easy to replace.

 

[amateurbob]

I've had some real stinkers and some good surprises. Probably a 50/50 mix. Funny, usually on a CRV because I didn't mind cheaping out on my own daily. With cheap parts you have to make the mental risk calculation of repairing again and replacing with a quality part. So I usually gambled with parts that had lower consequence of failure (ie window motor, trim, shocks, etc). If I needed it to get home or it was a massive undertaking repair (alternator or coolant pipe on a CRV), I ponied up for the name brand or OE parts.

I have 2012 accord (my daily driver) and l would apply that same logic to replacing the starter. When it goes, l will definitely bite the bullet and go oem

 

[zhaarnak02]

Indian-made trash.

THAT is so very, VERY true. I would pick ANY countries parts over those made in India. Heck, I would buy parts from Afghanistan first.

 

[panthermike]

I try my best to go OEM when possible, the pay once philosophy. I have and do use aftermarket, but try to seek out the higher quality stuff. Has been fine for the most part.

 

[zzyzzx]

I've used some really cheap brake pads, and they work fine every single time.
As for fails, most Dorman parts I've ever tried.
As for cheap parts I was surprised that worked good one was a crankshaft position sensor and an IAC, both for a Dodge truck I hardly use.

I don't know if this counts but I did pay like $5-$10 for a used transmission solenoid I got at a junkyard and it worked great.

 

[DCDG]

I wouldn't say it was a cheap part but should not have used the supplied rubber transmission pan gasket that came with the pan filter. Opened a can of worms and leaks down to a stripped bolt such a mess and headache huge regret. Actually I regret doing the job period.

 

[Urshurak776]

Back in the day, our 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe had a crack shaft position sensor fail. Failed at 40K or so. Known issue on these cars from that year. May have still been under warranty, but wife needed the car asap. I found a cheap, no name one on amazon for $17 with free next day delivery. None of the local auto parts place had one in stock. Dealer didn't even have it, but could have it the next day. I said heck with it and ordered the cheapo on Amazon. Worked fine. Was still on the car when it got rolled at 265,000 miles.

 

[D60]

WSSs (wheel speed sensors) are usually just a magnet. Cheap has always worked for me.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

On my Cherokee I used to buy Timken wheel bearings. They would last a few months and I'd have to warranty them out. It has larger tires, gets used offroad, etc.
I finally decided to give cheapies branded WJB a try and somehow ... they lasted longer than any Timken.