Cheap Part Regret/Success

I put some C-TEK rotors and pads from rock auto on all four corners of a 10 year old BMW a few years ago. No complaints of any noise or vibrations or anything. I guess that is a win.
 
amateurbob said:
I have 2012 accord (my daily driver) and l would apply that same logic to replacing the starter. When it goes, l will definitely bite the bullet and go oem
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I'm 5-6 years into the cheapest ebay starter on our 08 CRV. I've done similar things to what you're doing including the Denso A/C compressor with good success. I will say I installed Wagner front pads on it then replaced them with Akebono pads in under 10k due to severe dusting, grabbiness and warped rotor type shaking.
 
SwampSurvivor said:
On my Cherokee I used to buy Timken wheel bearings. They would last a few months and I'd have to warranty them out. It has larger tires, gets used offroad, etc.
I finally decided to give cheapies branded WJB a try and somehow ... they lasted longer than any Timken.
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I've yet to hear anything negative about WJB bearings.. I haven't used many of them, but the hubs I've installed are going strong long term.
 
nwjones18 said:
I'm 5-6 years into the cheapest ebay starter on our 08 CRV. I've done similar things to what you're doing including the Denso A/C compressor with good success. I will say I installed Wagner front pads on it then replaced them with Akebono pads in under 10k due to severe dusting, grabbiness and warped rotor type shaking.
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That's great to hear about the starter! I am glad Denso AC compressor is still working. I purchased the pads and rotors over 3 months ago... So l will at least give them a shot.

On the bright side to buying this Monday/Friday built CR-V, l am learning a lot about car repair.

Ideally l would like to sell it but l would take a bath. As long as l can do most of the repairs myself, it can be a good back up and winter vehicle.
 
SwampSurvivor said:
On my Cherokee I used to buy Timken wheel bearings. They would last a few months and I'd have to warranty them out. It has larger tires, gets used offroad, etc.
I finally decided to give cheapies branded WJB a try and somehow ... they lasted longer than any Timken.
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Yes! I put at least 2 Timken wheel bearings on my Uncle’s 2010 Ford Explorer. They did not last. Very disappointing.
 
Another cheap part success- knockoff Chinese A/C compressor from eBay. Put one on my 1997 Accord. It’s been on there maybe a year but working totally fine.

Can’t say the same for the knockoff eBay Chinese power steering pump I put on the same car. That began seeping within a month or two after install.

Also, cheap tires from Walmart- Goodyear Reliants. They are very inexpensive and they are great for an all-season. I’ve had them on one past vehicle and have them on two current vehicles. Defined recommend them.
 
I tried something new and bought an engine under-cover from RockAuto for my Mazda6. The original one must have hit something and been torn off on a road trip. Anyways it was only like $100 shipped, but it's the cheapest piece of junk you ever saw. I had to enlarge the holes where it attaches to the body because the holes wouldn't line up. It's made of cheap, thin plastic and doesn't hardly resemble the original piece. I am expecting it to fall off no later than the next time I do an oil change.

So this was definitely a "buy it right, or buy it twice" situation.
 
bdc101 said:
I tried something new and bought an engine under-cover from RockAuto for my Mazda6. The original one must have hit something and been torn off on a road trip. Anyways it was only like $100 shipped, but it's the cheapest piece of junk you ever saw. I had to enlarge the holes where it attaches to the body because the holes wouldn't line up. It's made of cheap, thin plastic and doesn't hardly resemble the original piece. I am expecting it to fall off no later than the next time I do an oil change.

So this was definitely a "buy it right, or buy it twice" situation.
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Ditto on a '19 Kia Sorento. Splash shields are one where aftermarket rarely pays. But then again I say just trash 'em and don't look back ;)
 
bdc101 said:
I tried something new and bought an engine under-cover from RockAuto for my Mazda6. The original one must have hit something and been torn off on a road trip. Anyways it was only like $100 shipped, but it's the cheapest piece of junk you ever saw. I had to enlarge the holes where it attaches to the body because the holes wouldn't line up. It's made of cheap, thin plastic and doesn't hardly resemble the original piece. I am expecting it to fall off no later than the next time I do an oil change.

So this was definitely a "buy it right, or buy it twice" situation.
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Hopefully it does not tear off when there is a late model Audi or "Beemer" behind you. if it does, leave the scene quickly. :eek:
 
D60 said:
WSSs (wheel speed sensors) are usually just a magnet. Cheap has always worked for me.
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Amen!

I pay a premium for driveability sensors and ignition parts. Try to get name brand from a non-counterfeit enabling source, usually Rockauto. Emissions stuff like purge valves I still go cheap.

Would get a used CV axle if I ever needed one. OE is better.

Still go cheap on front end stuff, wheel bearings, and brakes. Have had good luck! Knock wood...

Have gone cheap on struts and been disappointed. "Sensen", blech.

Had a cardone rebuilt steering rack for my Volvo 940, $75. Slightly leaked right out of the box from one of the flared fittings. Kept it in the car because alternatives were many times the price.

Cheap new starters, good. Cheap new alternators, maybe. I try to get used OEM. Maybe even an amps upgrade.

Cheap batteries, why not? Go with Walmart value brand but have bought used or shuffled used ones around within the fleet with the wife getting the best one.
 
amateurbob said:
I am curious how many people regret putting the cheapest parts on their cars. There is the tension between "you get what you pay for" but also people don't want to pay more than necessary. My nephews 2011 CR-V (now mine) has had so many things wrong with it. I thought l did my due diligence but it got me good.

I am grateful for everyone willing to experiment and put cheap parts on their cars so the rest of can also benefit.

The CRV driver side CV axle is bad and l am going with a trakmotive, it needs brake calipers(cheapest new eBay), l replacing the defective AC compressor with a Denso, and a belt tensioner with a Litens. I am also replacing brakes and gaskets but l am going with oem on the gaskets and wagner for the brakes/rotors.

All experiences welcomed and appreciated.
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I recently had to remove the Whoosh branded symposer delete on my Fiesta ST in order to pass CA smog. After smog I put it back on, but didn’t tighten it down enough and it blew out on the highway. That symposer delete plug cost me $20. I found out you can use a Dorman freeze plug from AutoZone for the insignificant cost of $8. Bought one, put it on, and made sure to tighten it more than the last plug. It’s been fine since. I should have gotten the Dorman plug to begin with! Though it doesn’t look as good as the shiny red plug did. I don’t regret it. lol.
 
Famous Brands and Ultra Power from RockAuto have been good for me.
Been finding NOS from ebay for 94 F350 and travel trailer, wins.
BlueStreak coil for my F350 was manufactured in Poland, win.
Douglas tires and Cooper Discoverer ATs from Walmart have been excellent tires for me.

U-pull it's, love treasure hunting in them! Weird scores but it is relaxing hunting parts and exciting when you find a part you needed for 4 or 5 years and you finally find it, great feelings. Finally found the matching 5 lug nut cover for my '93 C1500. Someone else snagged the alloy rims but left the most valuable part, the lug covers, I got all 4! 😁

I have 2 rules i shop buy mostly;
Don't skimp on tires and brakes. You can easily get going on cheap parts but stopping isn't so easy.
For lengthy part swaps, do it once buy the better part.
My only caveat to this is finances, life happens, so I would buy as nice as I could find it on the cheaper side of pricing. Raised two athletic sons on 1 income most of their lives and families get expensive. So there is a balance sometimes.
 
Early on, I was chasing the P0111 on my 2017 Ram 3500, picked up a China made MAP sensor from the local shop. Paid 170 bucks, just to return it. It created surging and turbo speed codes. Returned it and picked up a cheaper Cummins sensor. Never again.
 
Went with a Car quest MAF and VVT solenoid for my 05 Hyundai Elantra and they both failed in less than a week. The Car quest crank and cam sensors have been in there for half a year with no issues surprisingly.
 
I replaced the master and slave cylinder on my 2005 CRV early last year with Exedy. It never felt right and lasted 8k before dying.
I then used OEM and it’s been perfect since. The Exedy was made in China.

I also had the starter fail. I would have gone oem but I have a great auto electric shop locally so I had them rebuild it. Every alternator they’ve rebuilt for me over the years has been flawless
 
The OEM DPFE sensor for the 2.3L Ecoboost engine is somewhere in the $80-90 range now. The Standard Motor Products VP41 is $20 at Rockauto and is the Motorcraft sensor with the gold paint sanded off. It is the only cheaper version of that part that should be used in place of the OEM. I've used 2 of them on the Ranger and they all worked equally as well as the OEM one did (IE they last about 30,000 miles before water ingress ruins them)
 
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