Castrol GTX & full synthetic which would you use?

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That GTX OCI of 4k i sperfectly acceptable. I use it in both my vehicles at 5k intervals, and have had no problems at all ( been doing 5k on Penzoil 10w-30 for years on my old car ) 5k of average driving ( not severe service, but more like 20% city, 80% highway) pretty much most OTC oils can handle just fine.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TheFuror:
"Castrol Syntec 5W-30 and 10W-30 are not rated for any sort of extended drains. They are rated ACEA B1 only. The additive package looks good. I don't understand how they sell it at such a high price and not have it B5 rated. "

According to Castrol USA, Syntec 5w-30 and 10w-30 are both ACEA A1 and A5 rated. As I understand the ACEA rating system, A1 and A5 are fuel economy rated oils (low friction, low viscosity oils) and the A5 designation is for "extended drain intervals in high performance" gasoline engines. The ACEA B1 rating is a fuel economy diesel oil rating for "car and light van diesel engines". B5 refers to extended drain diesel oils of that class.


I'm a bit confused about these ratings. I have in my hands a bottle of Castrol GTX 10W30 (bought in Canada) and it says on the bottle that it 'exceeds' API SL/SJ/SH - ILSAC GF-2/GF-3 - ACEA: A1,A5. The website says it only meets A1 though. Any thoughts?
 
rcy,
I would go with the specs printed on the bottle. They may not updat the website as often as they change the formulations in the oil. As far as the ratings listed, it's a pretty good list for a dino oil. ILSAC GF-3 is a fairly strict rating to meet and it came out when the API SL rating came out. However, the ILSAC GF-3 is stricter than the API SL rating. ACEA A1 and A5 ratings are somewhat common, although the A1 rating is the most common for a dino oil. The A5 rating a bit better and if a dino oil meets this spec then it is a good deal for a dino. I hope I am stating all these facts correctly as that is how I perceive them. I'm sure I will be corrected if this is wrong.

thedawk
 
Drew your conclusions don't hold water in my book since I used Syntec only for 10 years 135000 mi. till I developed a small oil leak (seal) but the engine runs perfect doesn't burn oil quiet good mileage I can't think of any other oil doing any better.I drained at 5000 miles,Fram oil& Air filters.Yes perhaps Chevron Supream would have done as good a job at 3000 but I doubt 5000.
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quote:

Originally posted by C4Dave:
Why not just have the oil changed at a quick lube shop for $20? Keep your receipts. If there is any warrantee problem, you have receipts. Toyota can't deny any claims if you have followed the minimum OCI for your driving condition.

Dealers quick lube service is $29.00 and includes a 20 something point inspection plus topping off all of the fluids. This dealer quick lube covers all of the warranty checks that they do at the 5K mile intervals. Now all I have to do is follow the warranty recommendations for fluid and filter changes. Makes it kind of easy. Plus the dealership has done a good job so far. they even scribe the date of the oil change on the new filter (nice touch). The oil change position at the Toyota dealership is a stepping stone job to more responsiblity. If they screw it up or get complaints they are out the door. Seems to make them try harder. Who knows it's working so far. I'm sure I'm analyzing this way too much.
 
quote:

Originally posted by RedWolf4000:
There is to much talk about Dealer denying warrantee claims. I have never had this happen, they dont even ask. Lets be serious. They just check your miles and fix the problem.

Had a fellow within the last year on the Turbodiesel Registry site that lived up near St.Louis that was denied. He had records and had worked as a mechanic, used Rotella T 15w40 and a Fleetguard filter. Truck was 1 year old and started leaking oil from the oil pump area. Dealer said it was the owners failure to perform correct oil/filter changes. Took this guy several months to get Dodge and the dealer to listen to reason, the whole time his truck was not fixed. He had to hire an attorney. Cost him money and big hassle. If he had the dealer do the changes it would not of been a problem. Not saying it is right just the way it happened. Personally not really worth it to me while under warranty to save a couple of bucks. After the warranty is up, I might do the changes and go to 7500 mile OCI with Mobil 1, depends on how long I decide I might keep it. Actually if I decide that I will trade it at around 90K miles having all of the service done at the dealership would increase the value of my 4runner if I wanted to trade it for a new Toyota.
 
There is to much talk about Dealer denying warrantee claims. I have never had this happen, they dont even ask. Lets be serious. They just check your miles and fix the problem.
 
If the whole issue is to prevent warrantee denials, why don't you pick up some M1/your favourite oil, and ask the dealer to use it. That's what I did.

Just make sure you go with big names... so the dealer won't confuse your Synergyn/etc. with the $1 SA stuff.
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