Car Won't Start, No Crank

It may take a second set of hands but you really need to check voltage while the key is in the start position. Or at least try jump starting from a known good battery.
Do I need to check voltage where the positive wire connects to the starter lug? And see what voltage it gives me when trying to crank?
 
Do I need to check voltage where the positive wire connects to the starter lug? And see what voltage it gives me when trying to crank?
I just did this with a mix of alligator clips and a long wire on my meter, but it has constant 12 volts at the starter and also when trying to crank
 
I just did this with a mix of alligator clips and a long wire on my meter, but it has constant 12 volts at the starter and also when trying to crank
That means the starter isn't drawing current while trying to start. If it was, then the voltage would drop by at least a couple of volts when trying to crank. You need to check the other positive post on the starter, the one that only gets 12v when cranking the engine... The starter solenoid wire. This voltage is what engages the starter Bendix.
 
Measuring voltage on the other post shows about only 1 volt when trying to crank. Does this indicate a bad solenoid? Also, I can confirm the starter motor works because my alligator clip moved and bridged the two terminals and spun the starter.
 
An easy test is check the voltage at the start terminal while having someone turn the key to start. You will see the 2 large terminals on the starter solenoid, one that connects to the + battery cable and another with a braided cable that goes into the starter motor. If you get voltage there the ign switch, relay and solenoid are all working and either it is not getting enough volts/amps from the battery or the starter is jammed up somehow.

Edit: I just saw you last post, check the terminal plugin in the back of the starter solenoid. Unplug it clean it off and reattach it.
 
A battery can have a dead cell and check good.
Have someone try to start it while you have a Meter on the battery, it id drops below 9 or 10 it's the battery.
Weeks ago my daughters battery checked 12.4 try to start it, it dropped to 6 something
 
An easy test is check the voltage at the start terminal while having someone turn the key to start. You will see the 2 large terminals on the starter solenoid, one that connects to the + battery cable and another with a braided cable that goes into the starter motor. If you get voltage there the ign switch, relay and solenoid are all working and either it is not getting enough volts/amps from the battery or the starter is jammed up somehow.

Edit: I just saw you last post, check the terminal plugin in the back of the starter solenoid. Unplug it clean it off and reattach it.
Just tried unplugging the terminal, sort of cleaned in as best I could, and plugged it back in. No change
 
All of the cluster light work. No flashing theft light before or after. It comes on solid for a second as you're turning the key and goes off. I tried tapping the starter a couple times to no effect. What are the odds the starter just happens to go out after sitting for three weeks while I fixed the timing set? lol
Did you try replacing the battery in the key fob. How about the neutral safety switch. Try starting in neutral
 
Did you try replacing the battery in the key fob. How about the neutral safety switch. Try starting in neutral
It's an old school key, the fob only unlocks the door. I did starting in neutral as well. As expected it won't even make the click in gear.
 
Make sure the engine is grounded. Run the negative terminal from the Batt to a good metal ground spot on the engine with a jumper cable and try it again.
 
Make sure the engine is grounded. Run the negative terminal from the Batt to a good metal ground spot on the engine with a jumper cable and try it again.
The engine is grounded well. I just had to remove it from the back of the passenger side head to replace the thermostat while the intake was already off. Made sure it was clean and tight.
 
Is it hard to pull the starter on the 3.6?

I removed a dead hard-to-replace starter (1997 Mazda MPV 3.0 V6) some years ago, and applied 12 V and ground to confirm the starter was the problem. (It was.)

I would have preferred to do this on the vehicle, but it was actually easier to remove the starter first.

All that to say, you want to determine whether or not the starter is the problem.
 
It doesn't seem to be too hard at all. Just a little bit of a tight space to get to the bolts. I plan to pull it either today or tomorrow.
 
I hope you're not 180 degees out of time. Did you make sure you lined everything up?. I did that on some rebuilds back in the day. Click. Same thing. Maybe you'll get lucky, and it will be the starter. Fingers crossed.
 
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