Car oil in a riding mower?

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Originally Posted By: 360kid
Mobil 1 doesn't come in a straight 30 wt.

Well yes, kind of.....use Mobil 1 10w30 it has low to no VII so it is like a strait weight oil.

if you going to go that route i'd recommend Mobil 1 10w40 or 10w30HM, it's SL rated heavily built oil great add pack!
 
You can buy the little jugs of "mower" oil. You get less oil for more money than a quart of the the "car" oil and it's probably exactly the same thing. You can also buy one of those expensive split fire spark plugs even though it's not a whole lot better if you keep your mower clean and tuned. I like to spend as much money as possible and hope to get less product for it!

Anyone know where to go on line to pick up different sizes of (quality) hemostats. I broke my medium and small size ones this week. Had to get the grandpa, 16 inch one out to get gas line into a weed whacker tank last night.
 
Some say HDEO straight wt to avoid varnish that multi wt syn cause

Some say use the multi wt syn to avoid the varnish HEDO's cause
 
I see Synthetic as an extended drain oil, which is something not really recommended for these OPE engines. Personally, I think these things are quite hard on oil, and frequent changes are better protection then running synthetic.
You can get diesel & HDEO, single grade and multigrade for quite cheap, and it will protect just as well as anything else you can throw in there. I can get jugs of Shell 15w40 CH rated diesel for $10 here in Canada, I'm sure it's half the price in the US. I find it works really well in all these air cooled motors in hot summer weather.
 
Originally Posted By: Hitzy
I see Synthetic as an extended drain oil, which is something not really recommended for these OPE engines. Personally, I think these things are quite hard on oil, and frequent changes are better protection then running synthetic.
You can get diesel & HDEO, single grade and multigrade for quite cheap, and it will protect just as well as anything else you can throw in there. I can get jugs of Shell 15w40 CH rated diesel for $10 here in Canada, I'm sure it's half the price in the US. I find it works really well in all these air cooled motors in hot summer weather.


Hitzy that's exactly the way I think about it.

Joel
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
...so husqvarnas owners manual is great to see how a belt is routed,etc..but is NOT the place to find info on the engine..


Thing is, the equipment manufacturer has to cover the warranty period. For instance, if the Kohler cooks on my Cub, it's going back to the dealer I purchased the Cub from. They can hash it out with Kohler if need be. My new one has 3yrs/180hr warranty. Like I've said in other posts, my Z-Force manual specifically recommends Shell Rimula 15w40 or 10w40 SJ or above for the Kohler Courage series engines on this machine. If you flip through the Kohler Courage manual, it specs 10w30, SAE30, 5w30, 5w20. Same goes with my 31yr/old Case 220. The Case manual recommends 20w40 for the 10hp Kohler-K on this tractor for heavy-duty use. Kohler says SAE30.
You can go round'n round all day with this thing. I've still never seen an engine crater due to using the 'wrong' viscosity range of motor oil. Do I think they'll last longer going above and beyond what the engine manufacturer recommends? Yes I do.

Joel

Yes joel, that Kohler cooks, you will return it to the cub dealer, but it will be kohler not cub/mtd standing behind that motor. The only company (that im aware of) to be different is John Deere, they not only buy the engine and trans, but they buy the rights to it, so it is John Deere supplying the warranty 100%. once again, this wasnt a "he said, she said, i do this" example. Its the complete truth, most ppl (including you joel) dont begin to understand OPE. Do I care what you run? absolutely NOT, run olive oil for all I care. But there are ppl out there who do seek "dealer" advice
 
Originally Posted By: willix

Use any oil want.

So a 0w20 would work?
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and furthermore joel, since case nor cub made the engine, commonsense would tell you to use the engine manual(kohler). but what do i know? i only delt in it for over 35 yrs and delt w/ warranty issues and customer questions daily. oh and by the way, over the past 15 yrs, cub(mtd) accounted for over 70% of our warranty claims. i threw that in there in case anyones curious of what not to buy.
 
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"Anyone know where to go on line to pick up different sizes of (quality) hemostats."


Try Cabella's or other fishing tackle shops. I bought a few sets of nice ones from tackle shops fairly cheap.
 
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
and furthermore joel, since case nor cub made the engine, commonsense would tell you to use the engine manual(kohler). but what do i know? i only delt in it for over 35 yrs and delt w/ warranty issues and customer questions daily


I'm not trying to take this down the wrong path. I value your dealer experience, but WHY would Cub or Case arbitrarily choose and recommend a viscosity range? To sabotage their own equipment? I don't think so. kcfx4, you know as well as I do, if you had some 'super whamodyne' name brand specific oil (Scag, JD, Ferris, etc...)on the shelves at your dealership and were making a profit on it, you'd be touting the heck of that oil saying the manufacturer knows best.

Joel
 
"Its the complete truth, most ppl (including you joel) dont begin to understand OPE."

That has to be one of the most arrogant and insulting statements made on BTOG site.

If I thought it was worth while, I'd challenge your comments. However, after reading some of your other posts, I've come to the conclusion that it would be futile.

Your arrogance is only exceeded by your ignorance. You have no basis whatsoever to assess the capabilities of any participants of this forum.
 
why they do? idk, have no idea, its stupid at best, but once again THEY DO NOT make the engine,surely you know that. and just so you know, joel, i myself have always ran valvoline sae30 in my OPE in wich it is required in, and NO we did not sale valvoline at the dealership. Im not passing [censored] info "buy everthing at the dealer", I'm just telling it like it is
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
"Its the complete truth, most ppl (including you joel) dont begin to understand OPE."

That has to be one of the most arrogant and insulting statements made on BTOG site.

If I thought it was worth while, I'd challenge your comments. However, after reading some of your other posts, I've come to the conclusion that it would be futile.

Your arrogance is only exceeded by your ignorance. You have no basis whatsoever to assess the capabilities of any participants of this forum.

i stand by my statement, even tho i wasnt talking to you boraticus. the only thing "ignorant" is to pass info without any backing/knowledge what-so-ever. and you bortacuis proved "ignorant" by putting your 2cents in someone elses conversation trying to stir it up. and the fact is most ppl dont have a clue about OPE, if they did, they would be looking at the engine manual for engine details, not the tractor. (commonsense can move mountains)! and please botacuis, dont fire back a jd comment, as i already covered that
 
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Originally Posted By: willix
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: willix

Use any oil want.

So a 0w20 would work?
33.gif

For longer than you think.

So you have experience with this you could post up some used oil analysis showing how well it worked or din't work?
 
kcfx4, in your ~35yrs of OPE dealership experience, have you seen engine failures on maintained engines that were using viscosity ranges other than what was recommended by the engine manufacturer? For instance; 15w40 or 20w50?
 
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
why they do? idk, have no idea, its stupid at best, but once again THEY DO NOT make the engine,surely you know that. and just so you know, joel, i myself have always ran valvoline sae30 in my OPE in wich it is required in, and NO we did not sale valvoline at the dealership. Im not passing [censored] info "buy everthing at the dealer", I'm just telling it like it is


You're right, they do not make the engine.....but don't forget, the people that make the engine don't know what it's going to be installed on either. They rate and test their engines under controlled testing, with basically no load.
For example, ENGINE COMPANY mass produce a 13.5hp OPE, someone like MTD puts it in a lawnmower, while Craftsman puts it in a snowblower, and someone else puts it on a tiller, and another company uses it on an ice auger (hypothetical but you get the picture).
B&S can only give a general ambient temp viscosity guideline as they don't really know where it's going to end up. While the middleman in this case can be more precise with the requirement as they are able to test the engine on the equipment, and determine what's the best oil for the load the engine is under.
 
"For example, ENGINE COMPANY mass produce a 13.5hp OPE, someone like MTD puts it in a lawnmower, while Craftsman puts it in a snowblower, and someone else puts it on a tiller, and another company uses it on an ice auger (hypothetical but you get the picture).
B&S can only give a general ambient temp viscosity guideline as they don't really know where it's going to end up. "

i said exactly this on page 2
 
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Amazing four pages about arguments of what oil to put in the simplest engine known to mankind that has the easiest workload. It gets started and runs at a constant rpm. No multi cylinders(more than two) and no emmisission equipment. Put whatever in it, 15w40 will work in any engine, gasoline or diesel. Do you guys really think farmers keep 15 weights of oils to meet every spec in the manual for every piece of equipment in their inventory. Most keep a drum of one weight and its 15w40 and it goes in everything form the lawn mower, tractor and pick-up. Its a lawn mower anything will work fine, the rest of it will fall apart before that motor blows up.
 
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