Cant find the ACEA requirement for my 2006 Toyota 1.8 vvti

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Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The ACEA spec for your engine is A5/B5 or C2. It means HTHSV (high-temperature, high-shear viscosity) is about 3.0 cP.

The difference between the two is that A5/B5 has a higher TBN (more acid-neutralizing detergent) than C2 and you can do a longer oil-change interval (OCI) with it as a result.

Use a high-quality, known-brand synthetic if you care.

However, as everyone said, any oil will work in this engine. I run a thinner oil than recommended-- ACEA C5 (HTHSV ~ 2.6 cP [0W-20]) -- in a much older Corolla and it works fine. You can run a thicker oil than A5/B5 or C2 -- such as A3/B4, C3, or C4 -- but your fuel economy will suffer and the engine will feel a little more sluggish and a little less responsive, and that's the only effect you will see.


I had this car and engine. My manual stated ACEA A1 ! Toyota UK confirmed I could run C2/C3 as long as it was Xw30.
 
Originally Posted By: NGRhodes
I had this car and engine. My manual stated ACEA A1 ! Toyota UK confirmed I could run C2/C3 as long as it was Xw30.

Yup, A1/B1 is discontinued. The main difference from A1/B1 is that A5/B5 allows both mid-SAPS and high-SAPS, while A1/B1 was mid-SAPS only.

Out of C2 and C3 (both mid-SAPS), only C2 is ILSAC xW-30 in the sense that HTHSV < 3.5 cP but C3 will work except for some loss in horsepower, throttle response, and fuel economy. C1 is low-SAPS and doesn't satisfy the ILSAC minimum phosphorus (ZDDP) requirement.

A5/B5 is also good as long as it's mid-SAPS not high-SAPS. If it carries both SN Resource Conserving (or SM Energy Conserving) and A5/B5, than it's mid-SAPS and it's fine in an ILSAC engine like a Toyota. The only difference between A5/B5 with SN Resource Conserving (or SM Energy Conserving) and C2 with with SN Resource Conserving (or SM Energy Conserving) will be a little higher TBN (detergent ash) in A5/B5. I would go with A5/B5 with SN Resource Conserving (or SM Energy Conserving) for some extra insurance on TBN/OCI.

(ILSAC has a label that says SN Resource Conserving and SM Energy Conserving. For your car any ILSAC oil except the xW-20 and xW-16 grades is fine.)
 
Originally Posted By: YotaVerso
I only found this. Check the bottom of the document. There are some japanese co's (including toyota) that are under the C2, low saps, a5/b6 as a guideline i guess, but there are other bits and pieces that pushed me toward c2 and a5/b5 but just couldnt find some concrete evidence that it is so.. My best guess is that it is.

http://www.peakoil.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/InfoSheetFAQs-PCMOLCVsandSUVAug2009.pdf

Originally Posted By: YotaVerso
Couldnt edit the post.. I found this TOTAL QUARTZ INEO ECS 5W-30. Some russian guy does some basic wear and other type of tests. nothing scientific but this oil is actually the best 5w30 oil in the wear test. It's a C2 oil. There is no mention of A5/B5 in the pdf, but usally wherever i look it is always listed as a A5/B5 oil and usually such oils specify that they Meets TOYOTA’s requirements. That is also a hint towards the C2 and A5/B5 being the right choice for Toyotas. Also no api or ilsac specs. Is that a problem? My manual says api sj or sl and ilsac.

http://www4.total.fr/asia-oceania/malays...duct%20spec.pdf

great price of 5.35$ per liter (in a 5l package)

I think i found my golden boy
laugh.gif
Any objections? And think about it. They are designed for PSA and citroen which are some of the worst engines you can find. They really need great oil to get out of the warranty period in one piece
laugh.gif


See my reply to NGRhodes. A5/B5 with SN Resource Conserving (or with SM Energy Conserving) is an ILSAC oil (mid-SAPS, HTHSV < 3.5 cP) and it's the best choice for your car. C2 with SN (or SM) is also ILSAC but TBN will be a little lower, which will decrease the OCI a little. Therefore, I recommend A5/B5.

C5 with SN Resource Conserving and SM Energy Conserving is also ILSAC but HTHSV < 2.9 cP, which is thinner than what Toyota recommends for your car. (C5 is ILSAC xW-20.)

(ILSAC has a label that says SN Resource Conserving and SM Energy Conserving. For your car any ILSAC oil except the xW-20 and xW-16 grades is fine.)
 
I read it and im going to take your advice. Whats strange about this last oil that i posted:

http://www4.total.fr/asia-oceania/malays...duct%20spec.pdf

is that it only carries the acea C2 spec and some specific approvals, but no word about A5/B5 or sn/sm in the datasheet, but you can find the A5/B5 in any listing for this oil or any other resource. Maybe they had it and lost it? i dont know. Anyway i will try to find some A5/B5 with sn or sm. Any suggestion of a specific oil?
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan


However, Corolla's have low-HP engines (one reason why thick oil is not needed) and your gas pedal will feel heavier and the car will take off slower if you use a thicker oil, which also manifests itself as a drop in the fuel economy, somewhere in the 2 - 5% range.

Use A5/B5 instead of C2 because you mention a long OCI.


Then I recommend that he buys 1liter of A5/B5 or C2 oil for his gas pedal that it would not feel so heavy when used...

And 4liters of C3 or A4/B4 oil for his engine

grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: YotaVerso
I read it and im going to take your advice. Whats strange about this last oil that i posted:

http://www4.total.fr/asia-oceania/malays...duct%20spec.pdf

is that it only carries the acea C2 spec and some specific approvals, but no word about A5/B5 or sn/sm in the datasheet, but you can find the A5/B5 in any listing for this oil or any other resource. Maybe they had it and lost it? i dont know. Anyway i will try to find some A5/B5 with sn or sm. Any suggestion of a specific oil?

There is nothing special about Total Quartz Ineo ECS 5W-30 C2 according to the VOA posted on Oil-Club Russia. It doesn't have moly and it has the outdated Ca-only detergent (no Mg).

The newest specs right now are API SN PLUS and GM dexos1 Gen 2. GM dexos1 Gen 2 meets and exceeds API SN PLUS. They have a hybrid Ca/Mg detergent.

So, if you want the best oil for your car, look for a dexos1 Gen 2 oil or at least an SN PLUS oil. Note that dexos1 Gen 2 is automatically an ILSAC grade but SN PLUS allows non-ILSAC (thicker) grades as well.

I don't know which oils are available there. The most popular oils on BITOG are Mobil 1 dexos1 Gen 2 A5/B5 and Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus dexos1 Gen 2 A5/B5 (similar to Shell Helix Ultra with PurePlus SN A5/B5 in Europe, which doesn't have SN PLUS, dexos1, or dexos1 Gen 2 though).

If price is an issue, any oil will work in this engine. A5/B5 or C2 will result in a little higher performance and fuel economy than a thicker A3/B4 or C3 oil. A5/B5 will allow a little longer OCI than C2. If you can find a dexos1 Gen 2 or SN PLUS oil, or an oil with a hybrid Ca/Mg detergent, it's better, but I don't know about the availability of these new oils in Europe.
 
I dont know about that russian forum. i was talking about some Piotr guy on youtube. Here it is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-2bMQXhRf0&t=55s

Someone commented that this is the best 5w30 oil in this test, but the test is as you can see very basic.

I was trying to find some dexos oil here, but the only ones are gm dexos 2 but with these specs:

SAE 5W-30, ACEA A3/B4/C3, API CF/SM, Opel GM-LL-A-025, Opel GM-LL-B-025, BMW Longlife-04, MB 229.51, VW 505.00/505.01/502.00, Dexos2

Not one that is a5/b5. Also none oils in general with SN PLUS spec. No Pennzoil as well. It's very hard to find a a5/b5 oil with sn spec here. There is castrol start stop but is way too expensive. maybe a couple others but also very expensive. It would be a waste for my 3-5k miles.

The one i found, with a5/b5 but only SL spec is Elf Evolution 900 SXR 5W30

http://www.lubs-products-database.total.com/gallery/ORIGINALS/visuels/21500/21993

It's very cheap, but i couldnt find any good info on the quality. The user reviews are very good though..

Im still pulled toward Eneos, but feel unsafe considering they dont have the real approvals but only the performance levels. Dont know what to think about that. heard only great things about it. Any relevant info or some tests on Eneos?
 
Like I said in my previous post:

Mobil1 5w-30 API SN, ILSAC GF5, Dexos 1, ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5, HTHS 3.1, V@40 61.7, V@100 11.0, VI 172, NOAK 10.1, TBN 9.7
 
Compare yours specs (API & ILSAC) with any ACEA or EU OEM specification....

And you will quickly figure it out that "over the pond" oils are a joke...

https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html

Maybe they lube adequately your V8 5+ liter "lawnmover" engines with maybe 200...250HPs..

With your recommendations he will get only high oil consumption
smile.gif
Seen so many times when Petrol (rebranded texaco) oils were used...
 
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Originally Posted By: YotaVerso
I dont know about that russian forum. i was talking about some Piotr guy on youtube. Here it is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-2bMQXhRf0&t=55s

Someone commented that this is the best 5w30 oil in this test, but the test is as you can see very basic.

I was trying to find some dexos oil here, but the only ones are gm dexos 2 but with these specs:

SAE 5W-30, ACEA A3/B4/C3, API CF/SM, Opel GM-LL-A-025, Opel GM-LL-B-025, BMW Longlife-04, MB 229.51, VW 505.00/505.01/502.00, Dexos2

Not one that is a5/b5. Also none oils in general with SN PLUS spec. No Pennzoil as well. It's very hard to find a a5/b5 oil with sn spec here. There is castrol start stop but is way too expensive. maybe a couple others but also very expensive. It would be a waste for my 3-5k miles.

The one i found, with a5/b5 but only SL spec is Elf Evolution 900 SXR 5W30

http://www.lubs-products-database.total.com/gallery/ORIGINALS/visuels/21500/21993

It's very cheap, but i couldnt find any good info on the quality. The user reviews are very good though..

Im still pulled toward Eneos, but feel unsafe considering they dont have the real approvals but only the performance levels. Dont know what to think about that. heard only great things about it. Any relevant info or some tests on Eneos?

That is the so-called "one-armed bandit" (casino slot machine) test. It's worthless and meaningless. Amsoil demonstrated that a shampoo performs better than a motor oil in that test.

Eneos is great! It's the most popular oil in Japan, made by JXTG Nippon Oil & Energy. Eneos usually uses very-high-viscosity-index or extra-high-viscosity-index (VHVI or XHVI) Group III+ base oils. It's certainly tailored and made for Japanese cars. It's mid-SAPS as I recommended and has SN (possibly Resource Conserving [ILSAC GF-5] as well), A5/B5, and C2. If the price is reasonable, get it! You will have good performance, fuel economy, and protection with it.

Mobil 1 5W-30 SN A5/B5 is good, too, has some PAO and a dash of POE in addition to Group III+, but it's probably very expensive over there. Unless the price is similar, I would get the ENEOS.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Considering there is no definition of "Group III+" in API 1509 Appendix E, it is Group III.

According to the same document, there is no such thing as "synthetic" either, is there?

Infineum: Driving Group III differentiation

There is no need to turn this into a silly argument. Synthetic, Group III+, GTL, etc. are all commonly used terms in the industry. By the way, GTL is also officially characterized as Group III, bu there is usually a big quality difference.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Considering there is no definition of "Group III+" in API 1509 Appendix E, it is Group III.

According to the same document, there is no such thing as "synthetic" either, is there?

Infineum: Driving Group III differentiation


Okay. And?

Such a distinction is not required for that document and the intended purpose. Why would API API 1509 Appendix E make that definition when it is irrelevant to its purpose?
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Considering there is no definition of "Group III+" in API 1509 Appendix E, it is Group III.

According to the same document, there is no such thing as "synthetic" either, is there?

Infineum: Driving Group III differentiation


Okay. And?

Such a distinction is not required for that document and the intended purpose.

There is no need to turn this into a silly argument. Synthetic, Group III+, GTL, etc. are all commonly used terms in the industry. By the way, GTL is also officially characterized as Group III, but there is usually a big quality difference.

And please stop hijacking the OP's thread with this silly, pointless argument that has nothing to do with it.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
There is no need to turn this into a silly argument. Synthetic, Group III+, GTL, etc. are all commonly used terms in the industry. By the way, GTL is also officially characterized as Group III, but there is usually a big quality difference.

And please stop hijacking the OP's thread with this silly, pointless argument that has nothing to do with it.

You're right, there's no reason to turn this into an argument. You were the one who "corrected" Kamele0N, I was just correcting you.
 
Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
I just wanted to point out that Fischer-Tropsch (XHVI) is not GTL (gas to liquid)

Again, let's not hijack the thread please.

Fischer - Tropsch is GTL and GTL is Fischer - Tropsch unless I'm missing something here. The difference between the Shell Pearl GTL and Shell Bintulu XHVI Group III is only the final processing, where Pearl uses catalytic dewaxing and Bintulu uses solvent dewaxing. I think technically they are both characterized as GTL, as they start with a Fischer - Tropsch process that converts a gas to a liquid. However, Pearl is marketed as GTL and Bintulu is marketed as XHVI Group III.
 
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