Can you help me chose a good oil for my sport bike?

Originally Posted by Jgelack
In response to 02SE's post, out of curiosity, have you had any UOA's done on the 300V? If so, how were the results? How often are you changing it?


I had some UOA's done on one bike, the bored, stroked, high compression Hayabusa. It's producing 125 RWHP more than stock. No issues. On the two S1000RRs, and Panigale V4 Speciale, I haven't done UOAs, but I change the oil annually (the '20 S1000RR M isn't yet a year old) on all of them. That usually works out to about every 3k per bike, no degradation in shift quality. All bikes are equipped with AkrapoviÄ Evolution full Ti exhaust systems.

The 'Busa is the oldest bike, and it's the one I experimented with trying so many different oils. The HDEO's like Rotella just didn't retain shift quality for very long. The Motul 300V 4T just seems to let the bike run it's best. Better than Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1, Silkolene, Golden Spectro, Maxima, Ipone, Shell, Repsol, the list goes on.

At any rate, it's just my opinion based on my own experience.
 
Originally Posted by Jgelack
So, all of the oils that I'm considering are basically going to give me the same protection, the only real difference will be how long the shift quality lasts for?


Yes... all the oils will meet and exceed your mileage expectations but
the only real difference is deciding between the low drag 40 or the
high drag 50... on a dyno you'll see a 1 to 2 horse power difference
between the grades... about 1/2 has much as a exhaust up grade...

You'll learn that shift quality refers to judgment shaped by personal
opinions and feelings instead of actual outside influences... in other
words done in a blind test it will show that humans are easily fooled...

Originally Posted by Jgelack

IHow important is the base stock in providing better protection for the engine?


The more you research oil the more you realize any of it will meet or
exceed your mile expectations... there is not one oil in the 300,000
mileage club... there are 30 40 50 grade oils... there are synthetic
and mineral oils... the only difference is how much HP are wasting on
oil drag???

[Linked Image]
 
Originally Posted by BusyLittleShop
...so thats a total of 342 JASO approve oils good for wet clutches that could also qualify as Energy Conserving...


Maybe, or maybe not. The one does not follow from the other. EC is not only a matter of grade.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix


Look at what brand they are ... how many 0W are sold at the local brick store in the USA? Maybe just the "Pro Honda" only. Honda is big into 10W-30 I see ... lots to choose from for that RC45.
grin2.gif



Mr.Honda and I like our oil like our bikes... fast movers...

[Linked Image]
 
Originally Posted by bulwnkl

Maybe, or maybe not. The one does not follow from the other. EC is not only a matter of grade.


Energy Conserving is not additive... its an API test that
this "oil MAY result is an overall saving of fuel in the vehicle
fleet as a whole"... there is nothing in the oil to defeat a wet clutch...
 
Originally Posted by BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted by Jgelack
So, all of the oils that I'm considering are basically going to give me the same protection, the only real difference will be how long the shift quality lasts for?


Yes... all the oils will meet and exceed your mileage expectations but
the only real difference is deciding between the low drag 40 or the
high drag 50... on a dyno you'll see a 1 to 2 horse power difference
between the grades... about 1/2 has much as a exhaust up grade...

Yes with a full exhaust system peak numbers on a little old R6 will go up 2-4 horsepower but gains elsewhere are good bit more than that. Look at the total gains under the power curve on just about any dyno chart at real-world riding engine speeds and you'll see.

You'll learn that shift quality refers to judgment shaped by personal
opinions and feelings instead of actual outside influences... in other
words done in a blind test it will show that humans are easily fooled...

What shift quality test are you referring to? You mention this in at least one other thread, you have done one?

Originally Posted by Jgelack

How important is the base stock in providing better protection for the engine?


The more you research oil the more you realize any of it will meet or
exceed your mile expectations... there is not one oil in the 300,000
mileage club... there are 30 40 50 grade oils... there are synthetic
and mineral oils... the only difference is how much HP are wasting on
oil drag???

Probably not wasting enough horsepower to take it out of the high 10-second bracket in the quarter mile.



[Linked Image]
 
Originally Posted by BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted by Jgelack
So, all of the oils that I'm considering are basically going to give me the same protection, the only real difference will be how long the shift quality lasts for?


Yes... all the oils will meet and exceed your mileage expectations but
the only real difference is deciding between the low drag 40 or the
high drag 50... on a dyno you'll see a 1 to 2 horse power difference
between the grades... about 1/2 has much as a exhaust up grade...

You'll learn that shift quality refers to judgment shaped by personal
opinions and feelings instead of actual outside influences... in other
words done in a blind test it will show that humans are easily fooled...

Originally Posted by Jgelack

IHow important is the base stock in providing better protection for the engine?


The more you research oil the more you realize any of it will meet or
exceed your mile expectations... there is not one oil in the 300,000
mileage club... there are 30 40 50 grade oils... there are synthetic
and mineral oils... the only difference is how much HP are wasting on
oil drag???

[Linked Image]


Got it! Thanks for your reply!
 
Originally Posted by Jgelack

Got it! Thanks for your reply!


You're welcome...

Twist of the Wrist 2 book contains twenty-six chapters of riding
techniques. Straight to the point information on how to make your bike
work for you not against you. Volume II names and solves the seven
specific riding problems every rider faces. You'll use the
clearly described techniques every day - every time you ride.

[Linked Image from images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com]
 
Originally Posted by BusyLittleShop
The more you research oil the more you realize any of it will meet or
exceed your mile expectations... there is not one oil in the 300,000
mileage club... there are 30 40 50 grade oils... there are synthetic
and mineral oils... the only difference is how much HP are wasting on
oil drag???


A big part of understanding tribology is the relationship between oil viscosity, the speed of lubricated moving parts relative to each other, and the MOFT between them which corresponds to the level of engine wear.

I would rather sacrifice 1~2 peak HP for more MOFT and less engine wear.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by BusyLittleShop
The more you research oil the more you realize any of it will meet or
exceed your mile expectations... there is not one oil in the 300,000
mileage club... there are 30 40 50 grade oils... there are synthetic
and mineral oils... the only difference is how much HP are wasting on
oil drag???


A big part of understanding tribology is the relationship between oil viscosity, the speed of lubricated moving parts relative to each other, and the MOFT between them which corresponds to the level of engine wear.

I would rather sacrifice 1~2 peak HP for more MOFT and less engine wear.

I agree with you. In your opinion which brand and model of oil offers all this.
 
Taurus77, what bike do you have? Sportbike/Standard/Cruiser, air cooled, liquid cooled? Sorry if you shared elsewhere and I missed it.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix


I would rather sacrifice 1~2 peak HP for more MOFT and less engine wear.


Mercy Zee... you don't have to sacrifice... with a good 30 grade you can enjoy 1-2 more ponies and meet and exceed your mileage expectations...
 
Last edited:
Regardless of the brand that Yamaha recommends, Yamaha does not show a 10w30 in the oil chart that you posted on the first page. If Yamaha recommended it, it would unlikely have a high-end ambient temperature rating that meets the need when outdoor temperatures increase in the hotter riding months. Why continue suggesting it?
21.gif
 
I agree with ZeeOSix, I wouldn't miss one or two ponies and definitely would never miss the two ponies above... Lol.

Pick a 10w40 which covers the low end of the spectrum just like a 10w30 and will cover the high end with any ambient temperature you will encounter.
 
Originally Posted by Bonz
Why continue suggesting it?
21.gif



My apologies... I meant to type 40 grade in my response to Zee... Yamaha ha ha doesn't even recommend a 30...
 
Originally Posted by Bonz
Taurus77, what bike do you have? Sportbike/Standard/Cruiser, air cooled, liquid cooled? Sorry if you shared elsewhere and I missed it.




I have a naked
HONDA CB 1300 03
11.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Taurus77
Originally Posted by Bonz
Taurus77, what bike do you have? Sportbike/Standard/Cruiser, air cooled, liquid cooled? Sorry if you shared elsewhere and I missed it.




I have a naked
HONDA CB 1300 03
11.gif



That is pure bike envy right there! That's a beautiful big bore, mildly stressed engine. Pick any 10w40 and go with it. If or when shift quality begins to fall off, change it out and get back on the road riding that wonderful bike.
 
Originally Posted by BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted by bulwnkl

Maybe, or maybe not. The one does not follow from the other. EC is not only a matter of grade.


Energy Conserving is not additive... its an API test that
this "oil MAY result is an overall saving of fuel in the vehicle
fleet as a whole"... there is nothing in the oil to defeat a wet clutch...


How about I send you a few EC oils of my choosing, and you have them tested against JASO MA at SWRI?
 
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