Can oil grade impact cam phasing?

My 2019 V6 Taco and 2017 1.5 CRV don't seem to care. MPG, performance, sound, etc......same if not better, and neither car fuel dilutes. 0W-30.

Question: If anything depends on x pressure at y temperature, are there sensors, software, controls to really use the variables, both from a look-up table/calculated curve and sensor input?
 
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Would changing oil temperatures cause a problem with the cam timing?
Are you starting a hot motor every morning? Cold oil is thicker oil.
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The engine management accounts for cold starting and warmup. I assume we are discussing the engine performance
at operating temperature. I have made these changes and notice performance differences way beyond a slight HTHS and KV100 advancement. I am not bench racing here. Test and report.
 
There are factory vehicles with VCT that call for 5-50W oil, like my 2013 GT500. I've ran 5-30W and 0-40W in it and never noticed any differences in sound or performance.
 
Does anyone think owning and operating a car in a frigid climate, with constant severe cold starts, is harder on electronic cam phasers? And if so, are they more prone to cam phaser trouble? I would imagine so, if they're as oil viscosity critical as they say.

That being said, there is only just so much tolerance they can design into these systems. I know Chrysler says to use ONLY 5W-20 oil in their 5.7 HEMI V-8 because of this. Using anything thicker can cause it to throw codes. But like "930.engineering" says, you don't start a hot vehicle every morning. So what are we to believe?

What's harder on electronic cam phasers? Living in Miami in June, with 10W-40 in the crankcase. Or living in Fargo in January with 5W-20?
Stop using logic !
 
I have used 5W-20 and 5W-30 in my FIL's 5.7 Ram and BIL's 3.6 Charger.

If there's a difference, they haven't noticed. They both have 5W-30 Maxlife in the sump now and no issues this winter.
 
The valvetrains on the Pentastars have had issues that seem to point to insufficient flow in the heads. But it could be just shoddy design of the rockers and/or adjusters. Our 2016 ticks for about a second on cold start. I was planning on going from 5w20 to 5w30 about now at 108k miles but am not so sure. I'm leaning towards a thin 30 like Valvoline FS.
 
Properly extended oil changes do not cause sludge or carbon build up.
however, improperly extended changes do. and even following a previously known-good extended oil change regimen can result in unwanted buildup if there is a significant change in driving style and/or conditions. the question was, "is it safe to say extended oil changes are more of a threat to electronic cam phasers, than heavier viscosity oils are?" and there absolutely is more potential risk to such components from running oil for too long, than there is from running an oil that is too thick.
 
Lots of discussions about this already. I’ve experienced more responsive engines when using 5W-20 over 5W-30. Some engines may be more susceptible than others to oil viscosity differences. It’s most noticeable in hot summer temps, accelerating from a stop there is more throttle response on initial accelerator tip in when using 5w-20.
 
I ran 0w40 in our Grand Caravan. Couldn’t tell any difference except it maintained 40psi of oil pressure while cruising according to the EVIC instead of 30 it normally did on 5w20.
That’s quite a difference in oil pressure. Engine temperature and oil pressure are two of the main criteria the ECU monitors when variably changing the cam phasing. It’s possible your caravan has a wider margin of error but many vehicles will alter engine tuning if there is a difference in oil pressure.
 
however, improperly extended changes do. and even following a previously known-good extended oil change regimen can result in unwanted buildup if there is a significant change in driving style and/or conditions. the question was, "is it safe to say extended oil changes are more of a threat to electronic cam phasers, than heavier viscosity oils are?" and there absolutely is more potential risk to such components from running oil for too long, than there is from running an oil that is too thick.
A proper extended lubricant change has enough margin to allow for "change in driving style and/or conditions". What you are really talking about is lack of maintenance - "running oil for too long"

I do agree, within reason , lack of maintenance definitely would be much more harmful. That said, SAE 60, or even conventional 20W-50 in winter areas would not be wise either.
 
That’s quite a difference in oil pressure. Engine temperature and oil pressure are two of the main criteria the ECU monitors when variably changing the cam phasing. It’s possible your caravan has a wider margin of error but many vehicles will alter engine tuning if there is a difference in oil pressure.
The 3.6 Pentastar uses a variable displacement oil pump which may have something to do with it. Cruising or gently accelerating it’s in “low” mode, around 3,000-3,500rpm it goes full blast and will kick out 80psi+, when it’s cold it’s also in “high” mode.
 
Manual states 5w20 with 5w30 if 5w20 not available. I have run anything from 0w20 to 5w30 with no difference noticed. 0w20 in sump now. Just don't follow OLM. Mine wasn't reset last time and it thinks I have 6700 miles or so with 290 hours. I am still waiting for the message.

2018 Grand Caravan.
 
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