Break in, Oil and New Honda Civic Si ADVICE PLEASE

[Al]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Please..do not listen to this a55clown. Vary speeds, don't use cruise. Limit rps as per Honda's recommendations. I like to get the origional oil out of there in the first 1000 ules. But its your choice. Havoline has a boatload of moly. That might be a good choice. Or you can put synthetic in the minute you get home.

 

[Cicero]

quote:

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Originally posted by Al:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Or you can put synthetic in the minute you get home.

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I might go 1K and then sythetic. BUT to go 50 miles and dump the FFill and go straight sythetic! Gulp. Give me the game plan here, Coach, cause I would always wonder if some magic Honda "Elf Juice" formula was lost...has anyone ever done a VOA of factory honda fill? I'll search here in a minute after posting this.

AMSOIL, Castrol, M1-EP or PP? (I have '04 green Elf Juice on hand.) I'll probably use 3K OCI no matter what oil I'm using, until its WELL broken in according to UOA's results. I will put on a Fumoto valve....HOT OIL flows very well and I'm not worried about "flow" rates flushing out bad oil, etc. It's quick easy and clean. I use it on my '04 Accord V6 that gets 24/33 mpg using M1 5w20, zero make up oil, 6K OCIs, factory fill out at 3K over the "meek objections" of the service advisor. I might dump FF at 1000 miles.

 

[Gary Allan]

Internetoilologist rule #409-AB3 clearly states:

Rid all new engines of the factory fill as soon as humanly possible. UNLESS the new vehicle is a HONDA. Then you must retain the factory fill for the full recommended OCI.

Reports of health issues and bouts of "bad luck" have accompanied those who violate this noble tenent of oilology law. One owner of a Honda did this and a tsunami destroyed the fishing village that was nearby within 24 hours. Coincidence? Maybe ...but can you take the risk??

Now I know what you're thinking.

Was that 10k ..or only 9k? Well in all the confusion of driving a new Honda, the most reliable and covetted value car of the decade, you may have lost count. You've got to ask yourself ...do you feel lucky??

 

[Laminar Lou]

quote:

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Originally posted by Gary Allan:
Internetoilologist rule #409-AB3 clearly states:

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I thought it was called the Internetribologist rulebook. That must be the problem, I've been reading the wrong rulebook!

 

[Cicero]

quote:

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Originally posted by Gary Allan:
You've got to ask yourself ...do you feel lucky??

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Wait, Oily Harry. Was it 10k or 9K? I gots to know.

 

[Cicero]

Well. I'm going to start looking for UOA's on the TSX and other performance Honda engines and see what I can find to help me decide which oil to use and when.

Happy trails.

 

[double vanos]

If I may add this to the heap - when you're breaking in an engine on a new car, that's not all you're breaking in. The whole driveline is involved as well as the A/C compressor (if you break your car in during the summer). The transmission and clutch never do as well as they can when broken in hard. When I broke in my BMW I just drove it normally, not aggressively, for the first 1500 miles. Then, as the car felt looser I pressed her harder. When I felt the car straining, I'd give it more time. Finally, around 9k, the car felt good with full blast driving. Today, at 90k, oil consumption is zero and it runs just as good as it did when it had only 15k. The manual tranny is quiet and shifts better than new (credit Redline MTL every 15k for that). Original clutch is very tight. She's still fresh as a daisy and I've been hammering the car since around 10k miles. Changed out the original fill at 3k with BMW's Hi Po synthetic. Since then it's been BMW filters and M1 0w40 every 5k with a change to GC at 80k. If possible, I'll get buried in the car. Cheers all! DV

 

[427Z06]

quote:

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Originally posted by double vanos:
If possible, I'll get buried in the car.

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Would it be possible for you to webcast it?

 

[Auto-Union]

quote:

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Originally posted by sxg6:

quote:

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Originally posted by novaracer69:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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Please... i can't stand it when people throw that site around.

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Joo kiddin?

lol, that page is all about "let's-get-the-maximum-attention-for-our-website". Do you think people would be reading that rubbish, linking to it, etcetra, if he said "take it easy, follow the manual" or "half-throttle".

Give me a break...TO THE MAXXXXX!!!!!

 

[Auto-Union]

fwiw, I ran my '06 RSX oil out to 2500 miles...because I had a good shot of Auto-Rx in there from 7 miles

Vary rpms, deep throttle, low revs until it feels like it wants to go higher. Hammer it once or twice a day.

I put in Havoline 5w-20 until 7500 miles, Havoline Synth 5w-30 until 12,500 and now GC until 20k. I have more GC for summers and Mobil 1 0w-30 for winters.

 

[Cicero]

quote:

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Originally posted by double vanos:
...The manual tranny is quiet and shifts better than new (credit Redline MTL every 15k for that). ...

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Very helpful post. I was forgetting this Si will have a 6 speed manual. (Now I wonder if there are any grease points on this car?)

Honestly, I was looking for an automatic LX/EX for fuel economy. The wife INSISTED I get an "that Civic" when she saw a Habanero Red Si parked by a bank even though she knows its a 6 stick and she won't drive anything but an automatic. She a keeper.

 

[Auto-Union]

I went out looking for an economy car too, new Civic plus I looked at the Si....had one on order for 2-3 weeks. I soon decided on the Base RSX instead. The LSD on your car must be nice though. I forget if the RSX Type-S had one, but I think not. I might have gotten the Type-S if it did.

 

[427Z06]

Ignore, wrong thread.

 

[Cicero]

quote:

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Originally posted by Auto-Union:
I went out looking for an economy car too, new Civic plus I looked at the Si....had one on order for 2-3 weeks. I soon decided on the Base RSX instead....

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You were probably able to get a reasonable deal, too. They are built in Japan aren't they?

We looked at a red automatic RSX's too...A nice alternative to an Si, and they shouldn't have started BLAH BLAH BLAHING over the "$1,000 additional dealer profit". It is a close out model and they had too many on the lot. I left quick. (I sold Acuras and Hondas in the late 80's and early 90's!) Si's are a salesperson's dream car...like the first Acuras. Big profits.

The Vehicle Stability Assist drove up the base price on the 2007 Si about $500 plus the smaller across the board increase on all Civics.
Hope them Canadians build a good car. I doubt mine will be from Japan.

Long live the Yukonians.

 

[Auto-Union]

I got out the door for $18,600 plus shipping. That includes stuff like sunroof. Now they are discontinued so pricing is mixed. That price is do-able still. Made-in-Japan was no guarantee of not having issues. Car just came from some warranty work...nothing major but dissapointing. When all is go, I really like the car. Accord Coupe' would have been nice too. One major factor in buying the RSX was r/s driver's kneeroom, most cars don't have any. RSX has room, plus is good for the money. I did notice the e-brake on the Civic was right there at the knee. I would need some foam over the handle. After a lot of time here at Bob's hearing horror stories about cars coming in w/o oil and such, I was terrified to buy used. So, good luck. Your car will be fun.

 

[Auto-Union]

PS, I wanted as simple a car as fit the bill.

This is a Si link:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=42;t=004087

 

[novaracer69]

quote:

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Originally posted by sxg6:

quote:

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Originally posted by novaracer69:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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Please... i can't stand it when people throw that site around.

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well humm. sorry. but what i was told from a older guy at work(gm power train ypsilanti MI) that spent 27 years at the romulas engine plant was to change the oil as soon as you get the car home. because there is some dirt and hair and sand left in the engine from casting/Assembly and just brakin from the rings seating in the bores. After that change drive it hard without beating the snot out of it and in other words drive it in the city

then at 500 miles change it again. then you can go 3000 miles if there was no metal in the oil if not 1000. lets just say it works well for him seeing that he has built thousands of engines. he has a tahoe with 230,000 miles that does not burn a drop of oil and is quiet.

the last new car i purchased is my 04 cavalier LS sport. it had it,s oil changed at 37 miles 200,500,1000,2000 this is where it went to Royal purple. bone stock it would run 15.6xx at 87 in the summer all day long. a very strong ecotec.

 

[martyi]

My new Honda has an OLM and suggests 5w20 oil be used. Seems simple to me (for most normal driving conditions) to just change the oil when the OLM tells you to and use the weight oil they tell you to use. As long as you install a quality oil/filter following the OLM you can sleep well at night. If you want added insurance try FP60 and LC20. I have been pleased with them in my Honda.

 

[Auto-Union]

I suppose if someone did a particle count on FF Honda oil, they would find "hair and sand"? lol.

 

[427Z06]

quote:

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Originally posted by novaracer69:
...i was told from a older guy at work(gm power train ypsilanti MI) that spent 27 years at the romulas engine plant was to change the oil as soon as you get the car home. because there is some dirt and hair and sand left in the engine...

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They may leave dirt, hair, and sand in those GM engines. But this is a Honda, and I have it on good authority they don't leave dirt, hair and sand in their engines.