You probably have naked cast iron caliper bracket dont forget to take the pad clips/shims or whatever they are called and clean the rust under it. Rust starts to lift there pinching the pad ears casing jams.
brake pad ears . lube or not
- Thread starter CarLuver
- Start date
In South Carolina, I do not lube the "ears" of the pads.
I lube under the clips, the pins and the back of the pads.
I use silglyde.
https://www.amazon.com/AGS-SIL-Glyd...ocphy=9010670&hvtargid=pla-2281435177338&th=1
I lube under the clips, the pins and the back of the pads.
I use silglyde.
https://www.amazon.com/AGS-SIL-Glyd...ocphy=9010670&hvtargid=pla-2281435177338&th=1
Last edited:
I've noticed the same thing. Very common for pads needing a little filing on the ears due to extra dried paint accumulating there during manufacturing. The ears is a very small contact area that should always have some small movements, so provided the brakes are being used regularly I doubt rust would ever build up to a point where it causes problems.
Underneath the hardware clips where they touch the calipers is an essential lube point, ideally with anti seize to prevent rust jacketing.
I have also noticed on a Dodge they coated their hardware clips to protect against corrosion, but the coating breaks down over time and the coating flakes gunks up almost seizing the pads.
Dried paint is not as bad as mfg. uses worn die and doesnt tumble the pads so they come out all jagged with raised lips and edges
Thus worth getting high quality pads.
I stopped applying lube on backs of the pads as well, actually.
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2021
- Messages
- 120
Here is what Akebono sent me when I asked what they recommend for the ProAct pads. I went ahead and did that plus M77 between the shim and the pad because Nissan recommended that as well in the FSM. Worked fine. Those pads are so quiet anyway, I’m sure it didn’t matter what I did.
A quick search on Amazon found only two products called Molly Lube and both are an aerosol dry lubricant. Is that what people use?
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2021
- Messages
- 120
No it’s usually a silicone base with a ton of moly solids suspended. M77 assembly paste is a commonly recommended version. Sold under the DuPont, Honda or ACDelco brands.
“Suitable for lubrication points with low to moderate loads and low speeds, which are subjected to water and extreme temperatures. At temperatures above 230°C, the carrier volatilizes leaving virtually no residue, and the remaining dry sliding film itself takes over the lubrication up to +450°C; Suitable for lubricating parts consisting of materials that are not resistant to mineral oils; This product is used successfully on metal/metal combinations with frictional and contact surfaces, brake anchor plates and the brake pistons of disc brakes.”
Last edited:
I have some Dow M77 I put on under the SS clips.
But a dry Molly aerosol sounded interesting on pad ears.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2022
- Messages
- 5,922
I'm going to say, that for me, the answer is no. I don't think it will do that much, but if anything, be a detriment on how things work.
Think about ice skating and why when it comes to the temp of the ice, 20F is the best. 19F, 18F, 10F, and it becomes harder for a person to skate. I'm sure if we had a thread like that, some will say if 20F is better than 30F, then 10F must be even better and 0F is the ultimate.
I think these topics will go around and around devoid of physics, so probably we should simply say what's the benefit, what's the detriment.
A factory TSB or manual will say do not use anti seize on spark plugs, because x,y,z. A thread will post, should I? And then it will go on for 5 pages.
I'm not being funny I think a person can do as they wish and probably there is no real harm either way. I've always thought brake lube and anti seize are two different materials. At least they look different.
Can we please start a new thread on why the range (fuel) that appears on my dash, doesn't seem to be accurate?
Think about ice skating and why when it comes to the temp of the ice, 20F is the best. 19F, 18F, 10F, and it becomes harder for a person to skate. I'm sure if we had a thread like that, some will say if 20F is better than 30F, then 10F must be even better and 0F is the ultimate.
I think these topics will go around and around devoid of physics, so probably we should simply say what's the benefit, what's the detriment.
A factory TSB or manual will say do not use anti seize on spark plugs, because x,y,z. A thread will post, should I? And then it will go on for 5 pages.
I'm not being funny I think a person can do as they wish and probably there is no real harm either way. I've always thought brake lube and anti seize are two different materials. At least they look different.
Can we please start a new thread on why the range (fuel) that appears on my dash, doesn't seem to be accurate?
That’s not the issue. I take my little Milwaukee angle grinder and clean the caliper bracket and then a thin layer of anti seize before I put the clips in. It’s the stupid design of the wear indicator clip. The more you grind the more the clip expands and pushes down the pad. It’s a design on the 19s on up but has never caused an issue. My wife’s 24 has the same design and has akebono pads from the factory. I went to clean them up yesterday since the cars coming up on a year old and nothing was gummed up, but I still lubed the slide pins even though it really wasn’t needed. The factory installs these pads dry, no lube on any part of the pad anywhere. Probably why everything was clean. I’ve found that a new pad (especially ebc) with their break in coating dusting, a little lube on the ears=glue.
Last edited:
One nub goes under the lip of the rattle clip and the other applies just enough pressure above to keep the pad off the rotor when not braking. That little clip is hard as heck to even push down enough to squeeze in into the hardware. I’ve tried bending it but it springs right back. I suppose I could cut it off but even as tight as the pads fit, it’s never caused any abnormal wear.
Last edited:
Everyone has their method.
I grease ears and clip channels and make sure they are freely moving back and forth before reassembly.
I also add a tacky high temp red grease to the back of the pad for smooth caliper contact.
The key is just enough grease. Too much and irony will find you.
I grease ears and clip channels and make sure they are freely moving back and forth before reassembly.
I also add a tacky high temp red grease to the back of the pad for smooth caliper contact.
The key is just enough grease. Too much and irony will find you.
I just serviced the pads and pins last night on our 2024. I’m trying to figure out which is the best way in Ohio. Nissan didn’t use lube anywhere except the slide pins and minus a little dry dirt, the pads and hardware were rust free and still sliding well. I just used some brake cleaner and a toothbrush on the hardware, and the slide pins were still quite lubricated. I did my 21 earlier this year that I lubed all contact points and the pads were darn near jammed from the silicone turning into an almost glue. I’m leaning towards nothing but the slide pins here in the north. Anyone who’s driven in salted slush can understand how mixing that with silicone would be a recipe for a frozen pad.
Lube one side of vehicle and not the other. Check in a year or two and see which is better.
Maybe because I haven't used factory pads in forever, I do find some fit/move better than others. Using new stainless shims/mounts I had some pads that did NOT want to go in brand new due to paint or whatever on the tabs. Those had to get touched/filed. Now those no longer have a protective coating so unless you put something, rusts very quick.
Last edited:
Absolutely correct with this statement. In the rare event I’ve had to file (ebc) is a rarity. I have a can of Por 15 caliper paint that I use to touch up where I have ground anything off. That paint is like a weld on anything you put it on. I did just lube a set of good year pads I put on my rogue but think I’ll be replacing them. I thought I liked them, but they squeaked yesterday lol. Any brake noise makes my wanna jump out of the car. Nissans Altima uses some stupid spring contraption on their front pads that I can’t figure out the purpose of that makes the fit tight regardless. It somehow works but I’m not a fan. Now my 18 rogue has the opposite that takes 4 hands to keep the pads in place to install the caliper over top of them.Lube one side of vehicle and not the other. Check in a year or two and see which is better.
Maybe because I haven't used factory pads in forever, I do find some fit/move better than others. Using new stainless shims/mounts I had some pads that did NOT want to go in brand new due to paint or whatever on the tabs. Those had to get touched/filed. Now those no longer have a protective coating so unless you put something, rusts very quick.
So the loose fit lightly greased tabs may cause an issue if you don't pay attention. 
First time this has ever happened to me.
I put new Duralast Elite brake pads on front of my Accord yesterday. 
TLDR -
Back in April I was checking brake squeak and re-greasing pads on the Accord before my son took it to VA. I saw I needed a new caliper due to a ripped boot and didn't want it seizing up on him knowing he was going to be doing multiple 8 hour, 500 mile trips each way.
It’s been 2.5 months and 5k miles since I did that new caliper. I have had very light squeak backing up during that time and only occasionally at that. 3 days ago it started squeaking when starting out AFTER a stop. It did that only for a couple seconds, then quiet again. I couldn't remember and thought maybe I didn't do or have the thin wire springs to help get pads off rotor some. I searched and some new pads come with the springs, some don't. I called Honda, new pads from them do not have them in the box when parts guy checked. I bought a hardware kit from AAP that has them and figured lets find out why the squeak and install them, must be just held up some or rust again....NOPE.
When I had put the new caliper on, the pad tabs/ears were not tight in the stainless clips and did have the wire springs on them. They moved pretty easy and had a fresh edge of Honda M77 moly grease where they touch. I had to hold the pads together lightly to slip caliper over. Matter of fact as I removed the caliper this time to inspect, the pads basically sprung out from position. On the new caliper I had pushed the piston in fully retracted before putting it back over the semi worn pads. That left enough room for the inboard pad to move and the wire springs had pushed the one pad out of “slot” and the tab was on outside edge of stainless clip. When I applied the brakes to bleed caliper, the piston pushed rest of pad but that one edge didn't move, hydraulics don’t care. Pad backing plate bent. Crazy part is the brake performance was fine, no noticed difference even on harder braking. No pulling to any side. Not dragging for extra heat, 500+ miles on a tank on highway. No other noises to alert, until 3 days ago when I started driving but then noise stopped each time. Even with the stainless clip touching the rotor, worn down at angle from braking it was not making noise, crazy.
Yes I made sure on both sides that tabs/slots were in correctly this time. The new pads are not as loose in clips this time but still move pretty easy. I had my wife slowly apply brake until piston was touching pad so I could observe.
First time this has ever happened to me.I put new Duralast Elite brake pads on front of my Accord yesterday.
TLDR -
Back in April I was checking brake squeak and re-greasing pads on the Accord before my son took it to VA. I saw I needed a new caliper due to a ripped boot and didn't want it seizing up on him knowing he was going to be doing multiple 8 hour, 500 mile trips each way.
It’s been 2.5 months and 5k miles since I did that new caliper. I have had very light squeak backing up during that time and only occasionally at that. 3 days ago it started squeaking when starting out AFTER a stop. It did that only for a couple seconds, then quiet again. I couldn't remember and thought maybe I didn't do or have the thin wire springs to help get pads off rotor some. I searched and some new pads come with the springs, some don't. I called Honda, new pads from them do not have them in the box when parts guy checked. I bought a hardware kit from AAP that has them and figured lets find out why the squeak and install them, must be just held up some or rust again....NOPE.
When I had put the new caliper on, the pad tabs/ears were not tight in the stainless clips and did have the wire springs on them. They moved pretty easy and had a fresh edge of Honda M77 moly grease where they touch. I had to hold the pads together lightly to slip caliper over. Matter of fact as I removed the caliper this time to inspect, the pads basically sprung out from position. On the new caliper I had pushed the piston in fully retracted before putting it back over the semi worn pads. That left enough room for the inboard pad to move and the wire springs had pushed the one pad out of “slot” and the tab was on outside edge of stainless clip. When I applied the brakes to bleed caliper, the piston pushed rest of pad but that one edge didn't move, hydraulics don’t care. Pad backing plate bent. Crazy part is the brake performance was fine, no noticed difference even on harder braking. No pulling to any side. Not dragging for extra heat, 500+ miles on a tank on highway. No other noises to alert, until 3 days ago when I started driving but then noise stopped each time. Even with the stainless clip touching the rotor, worn down at angle from braking it was not making noise, crazy.
Yes I made sure on both sides that tabs/slots were in correctly this time. The new pads are not as loose in clips this time but still move pretty easy. I had my wife slowly apply brake until piston was touching pad so I could observe.
Similar threads
