I always empty the reservoir before starting a full fluid exchange.
anything to look out for when getting a brake fluid change?
- Thread starter apollo18
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Sadly a little too late
I basted it out completely got almost all of it out and then refilled. Was only a 8oz tank it seems
I assumed the pipe/tube would have fluid that I can’t touch meaning I hopefully didn’t introduce air bubbles
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But you are bleeding, correct? Not siphoning. With the BMW, I still do not go below MIN. I’m flushing out all 4 calipers, all will come out.
I've had great luck with gravity bleeding numerous brake systems with no special tools required (I have a Motive too and don't use it unless I need to get air of a system)
Just crack the bleeder at the furthest corner and keep topping off the reservoir as it slowly drains out. Keep an eye on it, I usually do it while working on something else.
I don't believe that changing just the reservoir fluid accomplishes very much.
Just crack the bleeder at the furthest corner and keep topping off the reservoir as it slowly drains out. Keep an eye on it, I usually do it while working on something else.
I don't believe that changing just the reservoir fluid accomplishes very much.
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While I don't disagree that siphoning is not optimal, the fact that brake fluid is inexpensive vs. paying someone to do the same, I believe the complete opposite. Siphoning 5X does accomplish a lot. And yes, it does waste a TON of cheap brake fluid.
Again the BMW I do all 4, because that's how the BMW dealer does it (I've watched). But the other 2 cars, even the dealer doesn't doesn't bleed all 4.
On a job like tranny fluid and coolant, drains and fills are less effective and the fluid is costly. That's a key difference imho.
From my own observation, with the reservoir on the driver side, one reservoir is much more than what's in the line going to the rear right. If one has patience, the time, and a Motive, by all means, do the job right. If you've got a day job, a family, and kids that keep you on the road with their sports, siphoning will help quite a lot. jmoymmv having done both ways
I've had great luck with simple gravity bleeds and using my one man bleeders from tubing a water bottle.
Hardest part is fighting corrosion on the bleeders. That's really it.
Hardest part is fighting corrosion on the bleeders. That's really it.
The dirtiest fluid I see is the first bit that is inside the calipers which makes me wonder just how much the reservoir cycles through the entire system.
Also,.for anyone reading. Don't fill your reservoir to the top, keep it at the same level. As your brakes wear the fluid level drops...compress the calipers for fresh pads and rotors and you'll have a mess if you filled it up full on worn brakes. I learned this the hard way once
If your brake fluid is heavily saturated with water and has any separated from the fluid, it will go to the lowest points in the system, usually the calipers, because water is lighter than the fluid. Siphoning the master is good, but not as good as bleeding at each wheel.
Ask them how they do it??
With something like the Branick there's little excuse not to crack all four bleeders. A garden sprayer copy accomplishes the same, but is arguably less professional, technically mixes fluid and compressed air, and CAN push air through the entire system if allowed to run dry (the Branick just shuts off as the bladder plugs the output).
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The excuse is available time. I have a Motive with adapters for euro, GM and I built one for Toyota. My family makes it tough for me to have "spare" time to work on the car. With a breakdown? Yes, they step aside and let me do it. We all have different situations.
I only do the BMW at all 4, the other 2 I do the syringe. Yes, it wastes a ton of fluid, but fluid is cheap. Would we use a syringe for ATF or PS or coolant? Not if we cared about the effectiveness and the cost.
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Absolutely not as good.
But for those who are "skeptical" that dirty fluid mixes with clean, well, think about new homes. They all have anti drainback valves on the outdoor I call them spigots maybe they are called something else. Why?
I had a neighbor who asked me to help him fill his garden extension running from the house under the patio and onto the other side. Fill with 100% antifreeze.
2 problems with that. One winter it was fine. When we went to drain the antifreeze out, lo and behold, it was pure fresh water. Note to self.
He's old enough to be my dad so I wasn't going to argue, but I did point out that even if the antifreeze simply stayed put, it would freeze at 14F, and we get colder than that. Well, year 2, the pipe burst.
The above is for whatever it's worth. I sense some feel that the old fluid behind the master isn't going to ever reach the reservoir, it stays put, in the lines, in the calipers...i.e. syringe not effective to exchange the old out.
If you've got lots of time to work on your cars, by all means, yes, bleed all 4. You may even want to go even further and get software for your car, and bleed the ABS pump, all 4 channels.
Get a one way bleeder valve, pop it on the bleeder with a hose dropped into your oil pan catcher, start the car and sit there pumping the brakes 7-10 times for the back brakes, and about 5 times for the front, filling the reservoir before each corner.
Adds 5 minutes per corner to a tire rotation and you know it's done right.
Adds 5 minutes per corner to a tire rotation and you know it's done right.
Gotta bleed all four corners to get max benefit. Also to protect your calipers from corrosion. The junk that comes out on bleed is always the first bit inside the calipers, which is what causes calipers to corrode and seize internally.
Without fancy tools, get a friend or wife to do the synchronized dance with you. Easy, builds bonds between wife and husband (being facetious here) and you know it’s done right!
Without fancy tools, get a friend or wife to do the synchronized dance with you. Easy, builds bonds between wife and husband (being facetious here) and you know it’s done right!
For less than the cost of an alleged fluid change you can purchase a pneumatic brake fluid flush device and change all of your fluid from the reservoir to each caliper (or wheel cylinder). It's a very easy job and only takes about 20 mins once you're set up and get started.
