BMW B58 gen3 - Limited engine oil choices?
- Thread starter ps2cho
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The Liqui Moly Top Tec 6600 isn’t priced too bad at FCP Euro.
I'd look at oils from Ravenol. They aren't cheap but they are considered some of the best.
https://www.blauparts.com/routine-m...ully_synthetic-car_light_truck_van-0w_20.html
https://www.blauparts.com/routine-m...ully_synthetic-car_light_truck_van-0w_20.html
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- Dec 20, 2022
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Here's a bunch of approved oils list/specs that I found a few years back and keep saved.
Ok so a LL01-FE would work as well?
I have a 2021 M2 Competition which needs 01FE.
To simplify not having a ton of different oils in the garage what would you recommend for an LL-01FE that would work for both?
I’ll stick with Mobil 1 0w40 for my N55 engine and then one oil for the 840 and M2C
I have a 2021 M2 Competition which needs 01FE.
To simplify not having a ton of different oils in the garage what would you recommend for an LL-01FE that would work for both?
I’ll stick with Mobil 1 0w40 for my N55 engine and then one oil for the 840 and M2C
Any Longlife-01or Longlife-04 oil available at Walmart for a good price. There is zero reason to dig deeper.
Its technically under factory warranty until February 2027, should I stick with LL-17FE for the November oil change due to be safe before going with LL01FE?
LL01FE is fine if you don’t have GPF, it’s X marked for Gen3. Regular is not (no technical issue just compliance). Just run one more FE oil if you’re paranoid.
Interesting though that the n55 does mark LL01-FE as suitable as well...would you all just have me run all the same oil in all 3 of my cars, or stick with Mobil 1 0w40 for the 535i N55 engine?
I like the price of the Castrol 0-30 A3/B4 but its also out of stock too at Walmart...
I like the price of the Castrol 0-30 A3/B4 but its also out of stock too at Walmart...
My son has a 2021 M2C and he runs Mobil 1 0W-40. LL01 approved. It's fine.
I’d stick with the 40 for the N55, occasional rod bearing issues on non-M2 N55s at high mileage.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
N55 absolutely LL01 and in 40 flavor. Don’t put anything that has FE in approval.
You want higher HTHS because of those rod bearings.
As for your M2, stick to LL01FE (Motul has 5W30 on FCP) and after warranty expires move to LL01 or LL04.
The M2 is out of warranty already - it is our 2023 840i that has one more oil change interval within the warranty window.
My 2016 535i should have the updated rod bearings so my understanding is the later models dont suffer from the same issues?
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
2014 and later have beefed up bearings. But I would still stick to 40 in that engine. For example, Mobil 1 0W40 is not much thicker than Castrol Edge 0W30 LL01. Castrol’s HTHS is just bit above 3.5cP, while Mobil 1 is 3.6 cP.
Once you are out of warranty, just switch to LL01 or LL04.
Now, LL04 is lower SAPS version of LL01. If you have in 840 a GPF, definitely go LL04 and not LL01.
I've owned 5 BMWs, all with N5X engines. I always just ran BMW Genuine LL-01 or FE, whichever one it called for, and never had any issues. Heavy track use on my N55 M2, and several UOAs always came back great, even with 9 track days on the FE oil. Had a friend at the track with the same results on his N55 M2. Granted both these cars were tracked with the stock tune and factory paper air filter.
I also have a X5 N55 with 105K miles and it runs flawlessly, yes, on LL-01FE. Most reliable car I've owned actually.
The simplest thing is just to run what the BMW specs and not over complicate things with using different oil specs.
It sounds like the S55 and N55 can run on the LL-01FE, if you want to run a LL-01, it's less efficient and responsive, and unlikely to provide more protection, but won't hurt anything. Then get the LL-17 for the 840.
I also have a X5 N55 with 105K miles and it runs flawlessly, yes, on LL-01FE. Most reliable car I've owned actually.
The simplest thing is just to run what the BMW specs and not over complicate things with using different oil specs.
It sounds like the S55 and N55 can run on the LL-01FE, if you want to run a LL-01, it's less efficient and responsive, and unlikely to provide more protection, but won't hurt anything. Then get the LL-17 for the 840.
Meh. Just run whatever synthetic 20 grade you want. These engines with their polymer coated bearings are not picky. Especially if you're running a 5k OCI. Ex, Mobil 1 ESP
There's endless oil choices for the B58. I have mine tuned in an Ineos Grenadier pulling 400+HP on a 6,000lb vehicle before all the mods I've done to it. Skip 20 grade oils and go with anything that's LL01 or LL04.
Walmart options are
Pennzoil Plat Euro L 5w30
Qauker State Euro 5w40 (my personal fav)
Mobil 1 ESP Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5w-30
Castol Euro Edge
FCPEuro if you want to have fun with it. I'm currently running a Duramax 6.6l, B58 Grenadier, Yamaha 225SHO, and John Deere 825i gator off oils from there. Cost me less than $20.
Options there are Motul, Liqui Moly, Redline, and others.
Redline 5w30 white bottle ran the smoothest in mine but I hate the bottles. PITA to use. My current favorite is Liqui Moly Molygen. Doesn't have the specs but it does the job great. Bottles fit perfectly in my Grenadier and I change oil ever 5k miles anyway because I'm an abuser. People can brand hate and I'm not loyalist. I have Motul 300V on the shelf just sitting there so that will be next. I've ran Amsoil as well and the numbers were great but again I'm doing short OCI because I'm eating dust on country roads. I help a buddy harvest in the summer so the Grenadier and Duramax EAT endless dirt so the $18 oil change to me is better. I can do Oil filter, cabin air filter, and 7qts oil with a hard core oil and keep it under $20 on the B58. I also do UOAs on everything. They look stellar.
I won't run anything FE. I don't want the focus on fuel efficiency. If doing a lot of start/stop then many the 20 will work better for you but I turn those functions off. I'd only ever run a 5w30 or 5w40 in it. After seeing the numbers in Moab when it was 107f and I was in low gear at high RPMs beating on it for days I just can't bring myself to running a 20 weight oil.
Walmart options are
Pennzoil Plat Euro L 5w30
Qauker State Euro 5w40 (my personal fav)
Mobil 1 ESP Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5w-30
Castol Euro Edge
FCPEuro if you want to have fun with it. I'm currently running a Duramax 6.6l, B58 Grenadier, Yamaha 225SHO, and John Deere 825i gator off oils from there. Cost me less than $20.
Options there are Motul, Liqui Moly, Redline, and others.
Redline 5w30 white bottle ran the smoothest in mine but I hate the bottles. PITA to use. My current favorite is Liqui Moly Molygen. Doesn't have the specs but it does the job great. Bottles fit perfectly in my Grenadier and I change oil ever 5k miles anyway because I'm an abuser. People can brand hate and I'm not loyalist. I have Motul 300V on the shelf just sitting there so that will be next. I've ran Amsoil as well and the numbers were great but again I'm doing short OCI because I'm eating dust on country roads. I help a buddy harvest in the summer so the Grenadier and Duramax EAT endless dirt so the $18 oil change to me is better. I can do Oil filter, cabin air filter, and 7qts oil with a hard core oil and keep it under $20 on the B58. I also do UOAs on everything. They look stellar.
I won't run anything FE. I don't want the focus on fuel efficiency. If doing a lot of start/stop then many the 20 will work better for you but I turn those functions off. I'd only ever run a 5w30 or 5w40 in it. After seeing the numbers in Moab when it was 107f and I was in low gear at high RPMs beating on it for days I just can't bring myself to running a 20 weight oil.
What he said. I've been a BMW CC member 25 years. Use the best off the shelf oil, if you like the BMW oil, its Shell is it not? Use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or their Euro Oil. Under warranty? Dont screw around and put in the correct BMW approved oil. You can certainly safely use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or their Euro oil. If you want the latest engineering, use the ESP from Mobil 1. If it were me, in my B58 in AZ? Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30, yep I said it. I HATE BMW's oil recommendation nonsense, it's unnecessarily complex and techs and owners put in the wrong oil ALL THE TIME and result in engine problems. Further, I buy used cars and cant tell if the right oil has been used without owner history. Ever since the days they said it was mandatory to use TW 15W-60 in my M5, and then they came out with a TSB that said 5W-30 was okay I stopped listening to BMW. You should have seen the firestorm among the clubbies back then when they pulled that stunt. I ran Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40 on the track, as it would overheat with the TW 15W-60. I made them drain the oil out of the car when they put in 5W-30 per the TSB. Reasons to change sooner than later are over discussed here but what the hell: cold climates, short trips, ethanol in the fuel, fuel quality (use Top Tier), fuel dilution and stustained overly high oil tempatures. If you have any of those, just change it at 5K
Well the Gen 3 B58 isnt the same as your Grenadier. The VANOS is electronic, the auto start stop is totally different with the 48v system built into the transmission, no alternator, fuel system and oil pumps are different etc...
That is my concern because the TU2/Gen3 is quite a bit different version of the B58. When I researched I was surprised how much is different and that running regular LL0-1, (not FE to at least bridge the gap) would be a step too far in terms of viscosity.
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
If you're stuck and have to have it then biting the bullet and buying at the dealer's parts counter isn't always expensive relative to autoparts stores.
The BMW OE contract went back to Castrol, but it's the approval that's important more than the brand. X is better than Y, but your engine only demands the approval, not what brand.
The BMW OE contract went back to Castrol, but it's the approval that's important more than the brand. X is better than Y, but your engine only demands the approval, not what brand.
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