Recently when i dumped 0w20 in my PS system, I turned the steering lock to lock with both wheels off the ground to push out the old fluid and it made a big fuss with binding noises and an occasional clunk that sounded like it was coming from the tops of the struts. Plenty of resistance too. Any way to free these things up or do i just need to put new quick struts in the car? 2005 Chrysler Minivan
Binding noise from struts when turning wheel
- Thread starter Lockasiam
- Start date
Quick struts are generally junk, from what I hear. I’ve done lots of struts - re-use the springs (unless they high mileage or have corrosion), get new OEM spring seats and strut bushings.
I used FCS rear shocks and they're starting to go out already but i guess that's what $15 for a pair gets
I've heard better stuff about the Monroe ones
Not strut-related, but why engine oil in a system that requires ATF+4?
Despite some folks being OK with quick struts, the fact is most of them are built with inferior quality offshore components. Further, the 2005 Chrysler minivan lineup came with 11 different spring combinations, depending upon engine, suspension type, and other options. And most quick strut manufacturers try to cover all these combinations with one or maybe two different part numbers, often resulting in wacky ride heights, poor handling, etc.
Like Astro said, the best COA is to rebuild struts with OE springs and quality components.
Cheaper, just trying it out, i don't notice a difference at all. hoping the High Mileage will stop my rack seals from weeping too .
3 reasons
Understand. This coming from a guy who just finished over eight knuckle-busting hours replacing the rack on my 2005.
Yikes. Hopefully I won't have to do that
KYB quick struts and shocks has been good for me, so that's all I buy now. I seem to get at least OEM mileage out of them, but I haven't had any actually wear out, as the car has been scrapped or sold before they failed. Probably will raise the front end a little but adjust your headlights and go.
The rear shocks in my Focus have ~120k miles on them in two cars now, and work great.
The rear shocks in my Focus have ~120k miles on them in two cars now, and work great.
I've found some strut mounts use a common bearing like a 6303. Some can be pressed out, some not. They're not really meant to be serviceable of course.
Others like Kia use BBs in a plastic raceway. I've drilled a small hole and greased with a needle attachment before.
So, the answer is: it depends. Not terribly helpful I know. The best thing is to get your hands on a new one and see how it's constructed.
Others like Kia use BBs in a plastic raceway. I've drilled a small hole and greased with a needle attachment before.
So, the answer is: it depends. Not terribly helpful I know. The best thing is to get your hands on a new one and see how it's constructed.
Looking on RA, I wouldn't be surprised if there were BBs in that separate "ring"
In order to access it you'd have to tear down the strut in a spring compressor, at which point most people just install a whole new mount.
If your local AZ or O'Reilly stocks a mount, go fondle it
The OE bearings (and most replacements) are inside a plastic cage. This isn't a problem when properly assembled, as the bearings are sandwiched neatly between the upper spring seat and the strut mount. I've been rebuilding struts for the past 15 years and have never had a problem with quality bearings, even though they're housed in plastic. My floor-mounted spring compressor was probably the best 300 bucks I've spent on a tool.
In this instance I could pry the bearing and visually see BBs in there:
The Caravan may not be the same, but I'm guessing it's similar
New front struts on '13 Optima. I just can't bring myself to do quick struts, and I hate how quality struts + mounts add up $ so quickly.
Anyway I ordered Sachs/TRW for the struts. You gotta know US or Korea build for the struts ‐‐ I think the sway bar link mount moved. The TRWs say made in S Korea, so I figure for a Kia that's good.
I ordered Auto7 upper mounts. I know nothing of Auto7 but they claim they're OEM H/K. They were RA closeouts at ~$4.40/ea so I thought I was super clever.
I briefly paused because they did not say "includes bearing", but I...
Anyway I ordered Sachs/TRW for the struts. You gotta know US or Korea build for the struts ‐‐ I think the sway bar link mount moved. The TRWs say made in S Korea, so I figure for a Kia that's good.
I ordered Auto7 upper mounts. I know nothing of Auto7 but they claim they're OEM H/K. They were RA closeouts at ~$4.40/ea so I thought I was super clever.
I briefly paused because they did not say "includes bearing", but I...
The Caravan may not be the same, but I'm guessing it's similar
do you still happen to have that strut bearing?
I never trust springs in a quick strut. They may sit higher or ride harshly. OTOH if you think your existing springs are tired, this is a cheap way to try to restore life.
At the end of the day it's a minivan with the 3.8......so who really cares
??is there any way to measure this or do you just have to use your butt dyno
Not me. I just want my steering to function correctly and stop the wandering. Didn't mention that in the original post but it did develop a wandering issue maybe 20-30k miles ago and new tie rod ends helped kinda but not entirelyAt the end of the day it's a minivan with the 3.8......so who really cares
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