I didnt know this engine had manual lash adjustment.
Is it a forked rocker with adjustment nut, or a shim over/ under bucket?
64K 72 months? Really?
BIG mid-sized SUV knowledge
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Is it a forked rocker with adjustment nut, or a shim over/ under bucket?
64K 72 months? Really?
How long do you keep vehicles and how many miles do you expect to put on during your ownership of this SUV?
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Yes, inspection every 64K mi/72 mo.
I’m sure, just saying the sticker says “0W-30 & VW 504/507.”
All of the Euro online stores will have OCI kits with free shipping and minimal costs.
Yes. However, VR6 was not changed since 2005 except for some updates when it comes to hardware. It is a first-generation FSI engine, and they are known for fuel dilution. Initially, Atlas VR6 was recommended for VW502.00. But I think they moved to VW504.00/507.00 (grade is irrelevant) bcs. dealership logistics. In those engines, I would stick to 5k OCI and not a mile more.
So what is the point of oils in Hyundai? They are not any cheaper or more available than VW504.00/507.00.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
I never said they were. But since you bring it up, you cannot argue that SP Synthetic oil offers more choices than Euro approved oils at any brick & morter store AAP, AZ, O'Reilly, Walmart easily within a couple miles of most. And, just like Euro oils, can be shipped.
And API oils are often on sale and placed on clearance. For instance, over the past couple months, GTX Synthetic and even EDGE EP were on clearance at Walmart for $3/quart. When I owned a Passat it wasn't a deterrence but I knew API SN could be found cheaper.
Now, if the argument switches to which oils are more stout, that currently is Euro oils, no doubt, no argument from me on that. But is API SP Synthetic good enough for the vehicles where it's recommended? I'm certain it's an overwhelming yes.
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wemay
Site Donor 2023
Me personally, I'd prefer the VR6 over the 2.0T if the price gap wasn't too large. My fondness for that engine stretches back to 1996 when I owned a mk3 VR6 Golf Gti and other VR6 equipped vehicles throughout the 90s and early 2000s. The sounds and response were intoxicating. It's my all-time favorite engine along with the EVO 8 4G63. But those were my enthusiast years.
When i was in this position, I did not see a clear choice to victory. Reading the original post, I get where the OP is coming from - every model has its problems, and the prices of vehicles makes you want to see this as the “lifetime” vehicle that you can count on for the next 15 years, so it’s got to be perfect. But none are, and you’re left trying to find the optimal compromise, which just stinks at this price point.
When I was there, it ended up being a used minivan. Nothing was going to be perfect, so I’m not spending “perfect” money. Not enough ground clearance to get to the trailhead in the full-family hauler? That’s not a weekly occurrence, and that needs to be worked into the equation. Park 1 mile out and ride in - that’s what the MTB is for. … otherwise we are trying to justify the added feature by an additional “do anything” requirement. (Or choose another requirement, maybe you need high ground clearance in the family vehicle weekly, ymmv). But yeah I bought the minivan. And even past the minivan stage now, I sometimes miss it. Truck bed utility with knee-high loading floor, hard to beat. The highlander is probably the closest SUV I’ve experienced to the minivan architecture … and really, if we’re being honest, it’s a minivan with a flat hood….
But - reading all these posts and not being that familiar with the offerings, I’d probably be between the pilot and hearing out @edyvw’s comments. Knock honda for what you will, they are still a solid vehicle. They are known to sacrifice NVH and the interior won’t be as well-sorted as the Palisade. If you think the pilot has vibration, you might double check that you aren’t being too sensitive to the palisade. And - if @edyvw’s experience with the VW (atlas?) is telling, I’m all for a torquey turbo 4 as long as the driveline tuning integrates well (shift dynamics + turbo lag). I’d give the VW a try.
That said, I’m jaded by older VW experiences which were dismal, but those were 20 years ago. If the palisade is ready for a pin-pulled grenade, it might be worth a shot.
I was also going to second the Grand Cherokee L - but to me that manufacturer has been bought and sold so many times I get the sense that the engineering has tenuous pedigree, and what it does have… is tenuous itself. If someone offered me a WK2, I’d love to drive it - but I certainly couldnt chalk it up as a “forever car,” for some reason, mentally. I’ve had 2 older Grand Cherokees - the second one promised more than it delivered, but by all normal measures it was a good vehicle, a good DD.
Give the VW a test drive!
When I was there, it ended up being a used minivan. Nothing was going to be perfect, so I’m not spending “perfect” money. Not enough ground clearance to get to the trailhead in the full-family hauler? That’s not a weekly occurrence, and that needs to be worked into the equation. Park 1 mile out and ride in - that’s what the MTB is for. … otherwise we are trying to justify the added feature by an additional “do anything” requirement. (Or choose another requirement, maybe you need high ground clearance in the family vehicle weekly, ymmv). But yeah I bought the minivan. And even past the minivan stage now, I sometimes miss it. Truck bed utility with knee-high loading floor, hard to beat. The highlander is probably the closest SUV I’ve experienced to the minivan architecture … and really, if we’re being honest, it’s a minivan with a flat hood….
But - reading all these posts and not being that familiar with the offerings, I’d probably be between the pilot and hearing out @edyvw’s comments. Knock honda for what you will, they are still a solid vehicle. They are known to sacrifice NVH and the interior won’t be as well-sorted as the Palisade. If you think the pilot has vibration, you might double check that you aren’t being too sensitive to the palisade. And - if @edyvw’s experience with the VW (atlas?) is telling, I’m all for a torquey turbo 4 as long as the driveline tuning integrates well (shift dynamics + turbo lag). I’d give the VW a try.
That said, I’m jaded by older VW experiences which were dismal, but those were 20 years ago. If the palisade is ready for a pin-pulled grenade, it might be worth a shot.
I was also going to second the Grand Cherokee L - but to me that manufacturer has been bought and sold so many times I get the sense that the engineering has tenuous pedigree, and what it does have… is tenuous itself. If someone offered me a WK2, I’d love to drive it - but I certainly couldnt chalk it up as a “forever car,” for some reason, mentally. I’ve had 2 older Grand Cherokees - the second one promised more than it delivered, but by all normal measures it was a good vehicle, a good DD.
Give the VW a test drive!
What’s FSI and how big a deal is this fuel dilution?
We drove a turbo 4 and vr6 back to back today, same test drive. Lost 2-3mpg with the vr6 but we really didn’t love the way the turbo 4 drove. You could keep up and get up to speed but it requires a lot more throttle input and time to get there.
I always maintain my cars at 5k intervals. Synthetic oil change (with filter every time) and tire rotation.
Fuel stratified injection without the stratified part
We did today, both engine offerings and a grand Cherokee L.
Grand Cherokee L is nice inside but that was about it. Steering was super heavy. Ride was nowhere near as nice (firm, not that it was wrong, just very firm). And it had quite a vibration from 58-60something. I don’t think it was flat spotted tires. Grand Cherokee hitches are also not available, not installed (jeeps are ready but don’t have them) and apparently require a lot of labor to install (if and whenever they come available).
We’d prefer a 6 cylinder VW after driving them both. I know nothing about VW. I assume I’d need a few more tools, some way to work on the rear brakes (Mazda has a work around but I haven’t found one for VW yet, people all seem to get some diagnostic tool to electronically wind in the calipers the right way through OBD). But we’d be losing a ton of (unnecessary) options. That’s fine, but it’s also going to cost us $. Driving a 30k mile used atlas also helped come to this conclusion as it still rode perfectly with 3 years and 30k on it.
We have to hear Hyundais offer to us and decide what we do from there I guess. We just wanted to be prepared, when we bought this thing we couldn’t sample the market so to know what was out there due to shortages with everything. Seems like VW maybe the only option, which I’ve always been completely anti-VW so this is a really weird thing to me. Honda pilot or our already known evil with the Palisade/Telluride.
It’s just even if they fix our vibration, what in the world is causing our bad tire wear. They checked alignment, it was barely out. I rotate at 5k and I’m at 10k. No reason for this to have happened.
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I’ll look it up, you’re speaking French (or German).
Does a vr6 have 1 head? Underhood it looked like spark plugs were in line, really didn’t look like a typical V engine. I feel like I’d read in the past that the vr6 is a single headed engine.
Even if I trusted the mill which I dont the only manual valve lash engine I'll give a pass to is a j35.
No towing, no severe weather? Unless you’re off roading you should test drive a few mini vans. We have a Pacifica Hybrid and other than the janky infotainment system, love everything about it. Picture is of mileage after about a week of short trips where it really shines, long highway trips the mpgs sort of come back to reality
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wemay
Site Donor 2023
That's fair. Glad we all have choices
Not a big deal. Most GDI engines have fuel dilution, and VR6 is probably better than new Honda and Subaru engines (especially Honda 1.5T).
Change every 5k, use either VW504.00/507.00 oils. When the warranty is out, you can switch to VW502.00 oils like Mobil1 0W40FS (Wal mart) or Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 (AAP and AZ), Quaker STate Euro 5W40 (Wal Mart) etc.
You are at sea level. VR6 will give you full performance. Here at altitude, turbo is a better proposition.
Yes! The cylinder angle is 10.6 degrees. That is why you have that sound and torque down low.
Just a little information on the Ford Explorer. The engines are longitudinal. There are two drive options, rear wheel drive and all wheel drive.
Are there any worrisome common problems with the 6 cylinder? I feel like there’s been recent threads here about water pumps, some kind of trans oil cooler leak with no fix/no part available, oil leaks?