Best performing 5W-20 in 2016? No old tests please

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OilQuestions

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I'm trying to decipher the better oils to put in for my first oil change in my supercharged 2012 Mustang GT.

Originally I had considered Amsoil Signature Series and Royal Purple. (Running Amsoil in my 2015 Ram Hemi)

However after much reviews online looking at everything from flash point, NOACK, Shear Stability, TBN, wear test PSI and all that fun stuff I was surprised to find out from this guy https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ that some of the oils that had generally very good specs did not perform well on the WEAR test....which in my understanding is the last line of defense after the shear point, and all else fails.....so, as impartial as that seems these are my current oils in the veritable running as it were.....any thoughts for or against and why?

#1 Choice. Shells's Quaker State Ultimate Durability Full Synthetic

#2 Choice. Shell's Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic

#3 Choice. Amsoil Signature Series Full Synthetic

Looks as if I am returning the 10 liters of Royal Purple I purchased the other day.

Thanks for the input and info everyone, I do appreciate it.

Cheers!
 
The Castrol Magnatec 5W20 has quieted down the cold starts on the 4.6 in my sig considerably-now whether that translates to lower wear, that analysis will take a while. Hard to believe 5W20 would be the correct oil for a supercharged 4.6, shouldn't that require something thicker, like 15W50?
 
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Still trying to figure that out. My model is a 5.0, and it has oil jets to boot....only made in the GT's from 2011-2012.

GT500 takes 5W-50 and the Boss takes higher than 5W-20 also....but the Boss doesnt have oil jets, and the GT500 is a 5.4.....oils well that ends well!
 
On my high horsepower turbocharged vehicles, I have had the best luck with 40 wts. M1 10w40 HM and M1 15w50 being excellent at shedding heat. This was in GA heat in the summer with several track days.

Personally , I'd run 15w50 M1 all the time. Monitor oil temps and add a aux cooler if necessary. Your climate won't be a factor because I doubt you drive a 700 hp Mustang in the winter and if you do, then it doesn't matter what oil you run when it's in a ditch.

I won't be more worried about the intercooling and tune of the setup to make sure you aren't getting detonation than making a big deal about oil choice. If that motor is going to let go, it'll likely be because of that instead.
 
My boss has an 800 hp Super Snake - they told him to run Mobil 1 15w50 ... he's done 190 MPH ...
Think that is 5.4L ?
 
How are you planning on driving it? Is it a street only vehicle? Do you do any track time on it?

If it is a street only vehicle, then xw-20 Ultra Platinum, Mobil 1 EP or Castrol Edge (or Magnatec if you can find it) would be my choice.

Even though I believe in xw-20 oils, if doing some track time, I would bump up to a xw-30 (same oil brands as above).

If doing a lot of track time in the summer, look at a xw-40.
 
Thanks for chiming in all. Well, it will be a "daily driver" for the next 12 months or maybe less. But I still have a nice truck for the next month or three, so that'll get me through the worst of any snow.

I've decided to run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20 supported by a WIX XP oil filter. Going to change the trans and diff oils next week too after the first oil change since I've had it. (
After some Blackstone lab analysis returns, I'll post the historical data for the stock unknown oil, and 2 X's changes of the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum after maybe 5k miles or so. If I can get 8k out of an pil change how I drive in the summer months I'll be VERY happy. Right now I will plan on 5k and see how the results go.
 
OP, your list is a good place to start. Regarding 540RAT's analysis, you have to read the whole blog and ponder his data... He was trying specifically to keep flat tappet cams alive in dirt track classes that are rule limited to that technology. That's why he was, and may still be using oil additives to boost lubricity.

These guys are running 400+# springs on flat tappets in mostly SBC's and trying to spin 7,000 RPM for hours. Not what you are doing. Not your motor or valve train technology.

Fords are generally easier on valve trains with lighter spring pressures. And I'm sure yours is roller cam'd...

So the big bug-a-boo for you is rod and main bearings under high load at low speed. Boosted motors can make big rod loads at 1,500 RPM and that really pushes the oil out of the bearings. At 4,000 the dwell time for the peak load is much less and the oil wedge is better established, so life is easier on the bearings.

If you are going to run a 20, I'd go with the most robust 20 I could find. And personally, I would not do it. Like the others have said above, I'd be all over a xW-30 instead. And xW-40 for any strip time or track days...

QSUD or Pennz Ultra would certainly be on my shopping list.

So would Motul 300V and Redline if I was headed for the strip...

For daily driving outside the winter months in PA, I might just run Chevron Delo400 15W-30 SD (severe duty) and call it good. But that is prolly not your winter pick ...
 
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Well no matter what the test is - seems he runs them the same.
Was surprised how much PUP dropped without the OTC oil additive ...
 
Check what is said about Wix XP on this site.
I use it for transmission only since IMO single pass is not as important as for an ICE ...
 
Honestly there's little difference between Mobil, Pennzoil, Quaker State, etc when you use the top tier grades (Extended Performance, Platinum, Signature, ...). It's more likely your car's plastic bits will fall off before any engine breakdown. I'd be more concerned about the air filter to keep dirt out of the engine. Stay away from K&N or other "oiled" foams that let-in a lot of dirt. Stick with a high-quality paper filter like AC Delco.
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i would go to a 0W-30 or 5W-30 Full synthetic oil.


IF the car is brand-new, he has to use whatever the manufacturer recommends (i.e. 5W-20) or risk warranty voiding (and yes I know about Magnuson law, but in the real world if Ford says "warranty voided" you have little recourse). AFTER the warranty is over then he can switch to a thicker oil.
 
Originally Posted By: jarad248
Koenigsegg's team concluded castrol edge is the best oil in the world.

see my other post on castrol. Ignore the naysayers...


There you go again.

Hey, did you ever get back to that thread where you said that no oil can manage acid buildup in the crankcase very well beyond 5-7k? You know, the one where I mentioned that measuring the TBN is one of the easiest tests to perform on oil?

Just asking, I was interested in knowing how you came to your conclusion.
 
Bearing in mind that RAT's tests are force over projected scar area, the oils have ALL failed to protect, and allowed metal to metal wear...I STILL don't know why you would use it to pick something in spite of all of the other reasons not to trust it.

OilQuestions, if you've read the site extensively, then why do you want to follow this discredited protocol that has NOTHING to do with your engine in the first place ?

oh, and
welcome2.gif
???
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
On my high horsepower turbocharged vehicles, I have had the best luck with 40 wts. M1 10w40 HM and M1 15w50 being excellent at shedding heat. This was in GA heat in the summer with several track days.

Personally , I'd run 15w50 M1 all the time. Monitor oil temps and add a aux cooler if necessary. Your climate won't be a factor because I doubt you drive a 700 hp Mustang in the winter and if you do, then it doesn't matter what oil you run when it's in a ditch.

I won't be more worried about the intercooling and tune of the setup to make sure you aren't getting detonation than making a big deal about oil choice. If that motor is going to let go, it'll likely be because of that instead.

I would go to M1/ PUP 5w30 or 0W40 First, i would go to a 15w50 if it were a built engine with loose clearances.
 
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