Best oil for medium sludge cleaning

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My old Toyota Landcruiser 3fe (1988) needs an oil that is a bit higher in zinc like Rotella T4/T6 or Valvoline VR1 racing oil... Which one of these or is there another one with decent zinc levels will clean the best? Looks like it was run with 10w30 dino oil for ages and it has some baked on sludgy deposits..
Thanks!
 
It would be hard to beat Rotella T6 5w40 for dissolving sludge slowly over time. You could try a little Engine Flush in the engine for 15 minutes idling before changing the oil.
Maybe good is to use BG MOA for some cleaning.
 
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Not to morph into oil additives but any modern oil will take a while to work at dissolving sludge - as mentioned there is BG EPR for sludge (may be hard to obtain) or something more common like Sea Foam added to crank case for up to 300 miles before changing the oil .
 
DPRespecki welcome to BITOG. You may want to consider Kreen from Kano Labs. Very good stuff. Like to see some pics of that Classic Land Cruiser!
 
Here is one from the other day...

20180826_182452.jpg
 
I've been doing a fair amount of testing on ability of oils and cleaning products to clean. Most motor oils have a disappointing ability to clean. Some are better than others. Amsoil Signature Series, Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10W-30, Castrol 0W-40, Mobil 1 0W-40, and Red Line 5W-30 have proven themselves. Mobil 1 0W-20 EP has shown a surprisingly poor ability to clean.

The cleaners that have proven themselves are BG MOA and Amsoil Engine Flush. I have not tested any others but I expect Kreen to perform well. One downside to quick flushes is that they are given so little time to do their job. I prefer modifying the instructions by putting less solvent in and driving around gently for 30 minutes, letting it sit overnight and then driving it enough the next day to get the oil hot, then changing the oil.
 
Originally Posted by SilverFusion2010
Any 10w-40 should have around 1000ppm of zinc.

Short OCI with your favorite conventional will gradually clean it up. 3-5k or a bit less.


If it meets SN spec it sure will not
 
If you are really serious about cleaning up the lube system, at the next oil change, drain it 1 to 2 quarts low. Add back 1 to 2 quarts kerosene. Start and idle 20 minutes. Drain and refill with new oil.

I have an engine with known lube issues (Isuzu 6VE1) and cleaning it up this way has made a world of difference, and is safe and effective.
 
T6 should do nicely, even conventional Rotella 15W-40 is chocked full of detergents to help manage soot levels in a diesel engine.
 
A quart of MMO in a fill of slightly thicker oil (15W-40) repeated several times will clean well I think.
 
Originally Posted by jongies3
T6 should do nicely, even conventional Rotella 15W-40 is chocked full of detergents to help manage soot levels in a diesel engine.


I feel like going this way so it is gradual... With it being so old and with 300k miles, I am afraid of being too aggressive which might kill it (clog up the pickup/filter/passage ways)
 
Since I rarely buy any vehicle with less than 100,000 miles (except motorcycles), I've always been looking at what cleans engines well. In my experience over the last 55 odd years of doing this, 10W-40 and a qt of MMO at each change works well. Adding a full can of BG 109 (EPR) the last 100 miles before an oil change helps a lot too.

Now that Valvoline has a specific oil to clean ring packs and such, the equation has changed a bit. So that is currently the best option, but may not be readily available in all markets ...
 
Just keep in mind that "desludging" with synthetic oils after a lifetime diet of thick dino might cause oil leaks. I would stick with Rotella 15W40 and no additives, there is no need for anything thinner in AZ.
 
It's made it 30 years to get to your driveway. I wouldn't do anything too drastic. A little sludge is ok. I like the gentle, gradual approach.
 
What about Pennzoil yellow bottle, 10/40 or so, for 3k intervals? I thought the yellow bottle had the best cleaning abilities?
 
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