Just purchased a 2021 Lincoln Corsair Grand Touring, which is a hybrid. Any recommendations on oil? I generally go with Mobil 1 0-20 for most all of my recent cars. However, now I have a fully-electric Mustang and the Corsair.
In my C-Max, you can set it for “EV only”, “EV later” (gas only), or auto. This system has a 12v battery to run accessories & starter/ignition, etc. so it seems like the ICE is stand alone. It is an Atkinson cycle engine, however, so low speed torque is sacrificed because electric is used for off the line starts.I don’t think a hybrid with a failed battery would quite be the same as having just a regular ICE. It depends on the exact vehicle but in some cases if the battery dies the car won’t even move at all.
When the USA C-Max first came out in 2013 the oil to use was 5W-20. The very next year, 2014, that changed to 0W-20. I believe the only reason for this was fuel economy, not engine protection. Much thinking was that 0W-20 you could get a few % better gas mileage. Either is fine in the C-Max as they both flow fast at start unless you are in an extreme cold climate in which 0W-20 would be desired. I have used both in my car, with 0W-20 most of the time. With the engine temperature not getting hot why are you considering the use of an oil ending in a 30 grade. Also, an oil that ends in a 30 would flow a LITTLE slower than a multigrade that ends in 20. With the numerous start/stops that the 2.0L Atkinson cycle engine makes it is best to stay with more free flowing oil.Hey, I just acquired the exact same car from my sis-in-law with 33k miles, lol. She bought it in 2017 with 25k, took it to the dealer every time she got a notification, including all the recalls & oil change every 6 months. Dealer used 5w-20. Right after I got it, I got on the throttle with the gas engine & a HUGE cloud of white smoke trailed me! I looked like a skywriter! I'm presuming that was all the built up condensation being blown out. Oil is now at the six month mark with 80 miles (when I got it). Oil looks brand new on the dipstick.
My question is what grade oil are you using? Factory specs 0w-20 I think, but in N. CA 5w-20 synthetic blend is what they used. I'm wondering if a 0w-30 or 5w-30 would work in this? Maybe give a little more protection?
Thanks
Perhaps, but that doesn’t make the scenario any less thermally stressing for the oil.Over the long haul, it's probably more likely that the batteries will degrade before the engine will if you follow the manual.
In the UK 5w-30 is recommended:When the USA C-Max first came out in 2013 the oil to use was 5W-20. The very next year, 2014, that changed to 0W-20. I believe the only reason for this was fuel economy, not engine protection. Much thinking was that 0W-20 you could get a few % better gas mileage. Either is fine in the C-Max as they both flow fast at start unless you are in an extreme cold climate in which 0W-20 would be desired. I have used both in my car, with 0W-20 most of the time. With the engine temperature not getting hot why are you considering the use of an oil ending in a 30 grade. Also, an oil that ends in a 30 would flow a LITTLE slower than a multigrade that ends in 20. With the numerous start/stops that the 2.0L Atkinson cycle engine makes it is best to stay with more free flowing oil.
What type of trouble, if you care to explain?You are asking for trouble if you use 5w30 instead of the recommended 0w16 or 0w8.
You're not asking for trouble. That's silly and without technical merit.Toyota hybrids shut off the engine all the time, including when your foot is off the gas while you are coasting, and engine comes back on very rapidly. I am not sure how your hybrid works but if it was a Toyota, I would stick to the recommended grade and spec. You are asking for trouble if you use 5w30 instead of the recommended 0w16 or 0w8. 0w20 is the max I would go on a modern Toyota hybrid.
More wear oil pressure drops and needs to build again because the engine shuts. New Toyota 2.5s don't run hot, 170 degrees F tops. At those temps your 0w20 is a hair short of a 5w30 and is sufficient and less prone to shearing. If temps got to 140s then that would be a different case.What type of trouble, if you care to explain?
What causes more wear?More wear oil pressure drops and needs to build again because the engine shuts. New Toyota 2.5s don't run hot, 170 degrees F tops. At those temps your 0w20 is a hair short of a 5w30 and is sufficient and less prone to shearing. If temps got to 140s then that would be a different case.
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Cheaper oil that's a 30 weight.Just purchased a 2021 Lincoln Corsair Grand Touring, which is a hybrid. Any recommendations on oil? I generally go with Mobil 1 0-20 for most all of my recent cars. However, now I have a fully-electric Mustang and the Corsair.
Have you tested it?I have a hybrid Ford Maverick I am using Mobil 1 0-20. Mobil said it is good for 10,000 miles but I will not run that far before changing. I will go by the oil change computer and change when it gets to 25%.
Probably fuel delusion, constantly starting and stopping.What causes more wear?
You need to do some research on how the new Toyota 2.5 works.What causes more wear?
Well perhaps you can explain it. What’s causing more wear from a thicker oil?You need to do some research on how the new Toyota 2.5 works.
The new 2.5 shuts off even during coasting on the highway for as long as 10 seconds, oil pressure is zero at the time, you touch the gas and engine wakes up rapidly. You don't want to have very thick oil when the engine is doing that. Listen to Car Care Nut on this subject.Well perhaps you can explain it. What’s causing more wear from a thicker oil?
Whelp that’s nonsense. Oil pressure builds the same, and regardless a 30-grade isn’t “very thick” as compared to a 20-grade.The new 2.5 shuts off even during coasting on the highway for as long as 10 seconds, oil pressure is zero at the time, you touch the gas and engine wakes up rapidly. You don't want to have very thick oil when the engine is doing that. Listen to Car Care Nut on this subject.
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I run 0w20 in that, OP doesn't need 5w30 in his Accord lol.
OP can safely trust Car Care Nut than you and me.Whelp that’s nonsense. Oil pressure builds the same, and regardless a 30-grade isn’t “very thick” as compared to a 20-grade.
Lots of wildly incorrect information out there and especially on YouTube. You’re not “asking for trouble” as you noted earlier. A 30-grade will be mechanically fine, as would a 40-grade as long as the winter rating is appropriate for the starting temperature.
If you’re easily fooled I suppose, or believe everything you see on the Internet.OP can safely trust Car Care Nut than you and me.
Well, you are also on to internet who suggest to run a whopping 40 grade oil in a Honda Accord. Why should we believe you? Motors that do not run very hot do not require that kind of viscosity. I'm trading in my 4Runner for a GX550 that will spend all its life towing 6,000 lbs. I will run 30 grade oil in that and will ignore the owner's manualIf you’re easily fooled I suppose, or believe everything you see on the Internet.
You can run a 40-grade all day long without detriment to anything except a small increase in fuel consumption.Well, you are also on to internet who suggest to run a whopping 40 grade oil in a Honda Accord. Why should we believe you? Motors that do not run very hot do not require that kind of viscosity. I'm trading in my 4Runner for a GX550 that will spend all its life towing 6,000 lbs. I will run 30 grade oil in that and will ignore the owner's manual